Today I went back to Wakayama to explore Nachisan and capture the iconic view of Sanjudo Pagoda in front of the Nachi Falls or Nachi-no-taki as it is known locally. After the exploits of my first outing on my own to Shirahama, I was much more confident today. Shirahama was an amazing experience with the thrilling Sandanbeki Cliffs, the lovely Shirahama Beach, and the most stunning sunset at Engetsu.
Nachi Falls ([那智の滝) in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama is one of the best-known waterfalls in Japan. It is said to be the highest single-drop waterfall in the country at 133 m. The mountain is also popular for Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple, Sanjudo Pagoda, and the Hiryu-jinja Shrine all of which can be found in the vicinity of the waterfall.
How to get to Nachi Falls from Nara/Osaka
I used the same approach as the day before while visiting Shirahama. I started a bit earlier at about 6 am. Since Nachi is further away, I wanted to have some cushion so I would have more time on hand to roam around the temple grounds.
I reached JR Nara Station at about 6.30 am and caught the next available train to Tennoji. From Tennoji I took the 7.79 am Kuroshio Limited Express, bound for Kii-Katsuura Station. If you are traveling from Osaka, you can catch the same train from JR Osaka Station.
The Kuroshio Limited Express is the fastest way to reach Nachi from Osaka
The Kuroshio Express is the fastest train to Nachi. It takes about 4 hours from Tennoji
The train was mostly empty. I found myself a window seat. If you have the option, choose the window seats on the right. The view is amazing as the train travels along the pacific coast for the better part of the ride. The interiors of the train are luxurious and the big clear windows make for a lovely experience for those who love to watch the scenery as the train goes.
The train passes through some lovely countryside
The Kuroshio Express passes through some beautiful countryside. After crossing the Wakayama Station, the train line moves almost parallel to the coast, going past rocky cliffs along the blue sea. The cliffs near Kushimoto Station, located on the southern tip of the Kii Peninsula are especially interesting – shaped like a natural bridge going into the ocean.
The train goes by some lovely cliffs along the coast
Bus to Nachi Falls
After a long ride of three and a half hours, I reached Kii Katsuura Station at 11.33 am. It is one of those quaint little stations you see in the rural areas of Japan.
The tourist information booth is located inside the station premises. The lady at the counter provided me a printed map. She was pleasantly surprised when she came to know that I was from India as not many foreigners come all the way down there.
She plotted out for me a “Nachisan Excursion Course”. The course would start from Daimon Zaka Slope and go up to Nachi Falls, via the Kumano Grand Shrine, Nachisan Seiganto-ji Temple, and the Sanjudo Pagoda. She also informed me that it would take me about 2 hours to complete the hike to Nachi Falls. Once she had provided me all the information, she directed me towards the bus stop nearby from where I was supposed to catch the bus to Nachi Falls.
Outside the station, I found a vending machine serving hot french fries amongst other fast food items. I wasn’t sure if I would find a proper eatery on the Nachi mountain, so I got one for myself and put it in my backpack for later.
There are a number of restaurants and shops near the station. The shops were mostly empty at this time of the day, with very few people around. The next bus to Nachi Falls was scheduled for 12.30 pm, so I wandered around the area looking for some souvenirs.
Buses are easily available from the Kii Katsuura Station
A small group had gathered near the bus stop by the scheduled time. Most of them were Japanese couples. I didn’t notice any foreigners among them. This bus also makes a stop at Nachi Station too, in case you are arriving via Mie.
The bus to Nachi Falls
As the bus drove through the town, one can see many abandoned broken-down buildings in the area. The typhoon Talas that struck in 2011 had been quite severe on the town of Nachikatsuura. Once the bus moved into the outskirts of the city and entered the mountains, it was a much more serene view.
It takes about 20 minutes to reach Daimon Zaka Bus stop from the Kii Katsuura Station. The ride costs me ¥420. A young couple also got down with me. The bus continued on with the rest of the tourists to Nachisan.
I could have gone directly to Nachi-san but I wanted to hike through the primeval forest. What is the fun of coming to this beautiful countryside if one doesn’t experience the unique landscape of Kumano’s spiritual forest?
The start of the Daimon Zaka slope
Kumano Kodo Daimon Zaka slope
Daimon-zaka means “large gate” referring to a gate that once stood at the entrance to the slope. I was not really sure which way to go, so I followed a narrow path going towards high ground, hoping it was the right trail.
Walking towards the Daimon Zaka Slope
Meoto Sugi
The path leads up to two huge cedar trees, standing on either side, which serves as a beginning to the Daimon-zaka Slope. These two almost 800-year-old cedar trees are known as Meoto Sugi (Married Couple) Trees. For centuries these trees have been standing together welcoming pilgrims and tourists – making their way up the hill. In 2000, the locals came together and performed a wedding ceremony between them. It is believed that couples marrying between these trees will find eternal love.
The 800 year old cedar trees that welcome you at the start of the Daimon Zaka Slope
Beyond the married cedar trees, the path gives way to an ancient cobblestone staircase called Kumano Kodo trail which runs from the base of the valley all the way to the parking lot near Nachi San.
Kumano Kodo Trail in Nachi
The Kumano Kodo (Ancient road of Kumano) is a network of pilgrimage roads that link all three major sacred sites in the Kii Mountain range. Japan’s Kumano Kodo trail is one of only two pilgrimages in the world with UNESCO World Heritage status – the other being Spain’s Camino de Santiago. During the Heian period, people used to make the pilgrimage from Kyoto to Kumano Taisha using this trail. The trail, however, is not limited to Nachi. Its total length is about 300 km extending across the prefectures of Wakayama, Nara, and Mie. In July 2004, the Kumano Kodo, pilgrimage routes were registered as UNESCO World Heritage as part of the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range“
A fleet of rocky steps took me up the Daimon Zaka slope. The massive cedar trees surrounding the trail create a divine atmosphere in the primeval forest. The Kumano Kodo’s rugged, forested mountains, quiet rural valleys, rivers, and waterfalls provide a spectacular backdrop for hikers.
The ancient road of Kumano
At a point in the trail, the forest opens up beside the road. From the road, though very far away, I could see the top of Sanjudo Pagoda.
At a point on the Kumano Kodo trail and the road intersected. One can see the Sanjudo Pagoda at the top of the trees from here
The trail is properly maintained and easy to climb. Mani, my wife, was here in December when it had rained profusely and the slopes were a bit slippery. So, fellas, keep an eye out for the weather before you embark on this hike.
I reached the parking lot in about half an hour and about 270 steps. The hike is not very tough and I saw several aged Japanese making their way down, as I was hiking up the hill.
Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine
Once I came out of the Daimon Zaka slope, there is a series of long steep stairs to get to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine. Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社) is a Shinto shrine and part of the UNESCO-designated World Heritage Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. Its main deity is Izanami no Mikoto, who is a deity of unity. Along these stairs, you can find numerous shops selling black stone souvenirs.
Stairs to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine
Climbing up, I reached a fork on the stairs. The left one with a big red Torii led to Kumano Nachi Taisha. I decided to skip the Shrine for now and if time permitted return back to see it.
The gate to Kumano Nachi Taisha
Kanzeon Bosatsu
To the right, just at the fork in the stairs, one can find a small wooden temple with a statue of Kanzeon Bosatsu, merciful hermaphrodite Goddess (観世音菩薩) is one of the five great Bodhisattva who administers mercy and compassion. A stone pillar in front says “For World Peace.“
Temple for World Peace at Nachi
Kanzeon (観世音) can be broken down into three words – the one who constantly surveys (kan 観) the world (ze 世) listening for the sounds (on 音) of suffering. Kanzeon and Kannon is used in Japanese with the same meaning. You might think why these sound almost similar. Well… Kanzeon was shortened by removing the ze(世) to make it Kannon.
An idol of Kanzeon Bosatsu at one of the temples in Nachi
Seiganto-ji Temple
A few paces later, I found myself in front of the Seiganto-ji Temple. I lit some incense sticks at the altar. Seiganto-ji is the first temple that is visited in the Saikoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. It is said that Seiganto-ji was established by an Indian monk, Ragyo-shonin, who happened to travel to the Nachisan area and practiced ascetic Buddhism at the base of Nachi Falls in the 4th century. As such, the original build of the Seiganto-ji qualifies to be the oldest temple in the Kumano area.
Shishi lion adorning the incense burning cauldron in front of Seiganto-ji
The original buildings were destroyed during the Japan unification war. What we see currently was re-built in 1590 AD on the orders of Hideyoshi Toyotomi (who was the Military General and a friend of Oda Nobunaga). Seiganto-ji was designated as a World Heritage Site in 2004. The main worshiped deity here is Kanzeon Bosatsu (also known as Bodhisattva Kannon).
Seigantoji Temple in Nachisan
From the temple grounds, on the other side, one can get a full view of the Kii mountain range. I didn’t spend too much time in this area – given my rush to capture the iconic Sanjudo Pagoda in front of Nachi Falls.
The sacred and vast Kii mountain range
Sanjudo Pagoda
After walking down a fleet of stairs I finally found myself in front of the vermilion pagoda juxtaposed with the cliff-diving Nachi Waterfall. It is hard to explain in words the majestic view of the waterfall in the backdrop, with the vermilion pagoda standing against it. I can only imagine how this view might have influenced the spirituality of the residents in the temples and shrines here. This is definitely the most beautiful photo of Nachi Falls that I have captured.
The magnificent view of Sanjudo Pagoda overlooking the Nachi Falls
Religious Significance of Nachisan
Since ancient times people have considered this area to be a pilgrimage. For centuries people have visited these lands believing in the mystic powers of the mountains of Kumano. One of these beliefs is that if a worshiper prays at the Three Grand Shrines, he or she can attain salvation. The shrines thus attract many pilgrims ranging from members of the Japanese Imperial Family to the common folks.
The magnificent view of Sanjudo Pagoda overlooking the Nachi Falls
I took a few more photos of the stunning pagoda with the Nachi-no-taki together. If you have time do not miss going up to the top balcony of the Pagoda.
Sanjudo Pagoda
The hike had made me hungry. I dug into the french fries I had obtained from the vending machine at the Kii-Katsuura station. I was also carrying a couple of shrimp Onigiri with me. After the quick lunch, I just laid down on one of the seats in front of the pagoda, mesmerized by the amazing view.
Nachi Waterfall
It was 2.30 pm already. After the quick rest, I walked downhill along the road towards Nachi Falls. A few meters downhill there is a narrow stone path cutting through the forest, towards the Nachi Falls.
One can choose to cut through a wooded trail to go down to Nachi Falls
One can also take the road if you don’t want to cut through the forested trail.
A beautiful path goes down from the Sanjudo Pagoda to Nachi Falls
After walking for about 15 minutes I was at the gates of Hirou Shrine, one of the three Kumano Grand Shrines. It was also a relief to see the bus stop just nearby.
Hiryu Shrine Entrance
Hirou-jinja
Hirou Shrine’s gate marks the entrance to the Nachi Falls. I went through the Torii to a wide stone stairway that goes directly to the base of the waterfall. The cedar trees are much more massive here than anywhere on the trail.
Massive Cedar Trees, Nachi Falls
At the base, I took a breather in front of the cascading waterfall. Flowing between the peaks of the Kumano Nachi mountain, the Nachi River creates over 48 waterfalls. Nachi Falls, also known as Nachi-no-taki, is the largest of them.
If one wants a closer look at the waterfall, one can enter the shrine and take the stairs up towards a wooden deck. It costs ¥200 to enter the shrine. From the vermilion deck, you can get the best view of Nachi falls as the water falls from the incredible height, hits the rocks below, and transforms into a small stream at the foot of the waterfall.
Viewing Deck at Nachi Falls
While coming down there is a small reservoir with natural spring flowing through the mouth of a stone-carved dragon head. Drinking spring water is supposed to give one good health. I filled my bottle with some to take back home for my wife.
Nachi spring water is believed to have healing powers
It gets dark early in these mountains. It was only 4 pm but the light had begun to fade. I went back to the bus stand and waited anxiously for the next bus to show up. Anxious, because the last train to Osaka was at 6.10 pm and I didn’t want to miss it. Missing that last train would have left me stranded in Nachi. Thankfully, the Japanese are very punctual and the bus arrived exactly at 4.25 pm and I reached Kii Katsuura station by 4.50 pm.
Waiting on the platform for the train to Tennoji
Waiting at the platform it was hard not to be still lost in those memorable moments that I spent at the stunning Nachi Falls. I had a wonderful time in the mountains of Nachi. Though the pilgrimage has been in operation since ancient times, it still remains quite off the map for most tourists. That inadvertently resulted in a richer experience for people like me who love silence. If you are planning a day trip to Nachi Falls, I would advise visitors to stay back for a night in Nachi so you can start the tour early in the morning. I missed out on exploring the Kumano Nachi Taisha because of lack of time.
Train from Nachi to Osaka
Nachi is a journey into the realm of nature that brings purification to the soul. For centuries Japanese pilgrims have walked the Kumano Kodo, a more than 1,200-year-old network of trails that pass cedar forests, cascading waterfalls, and picturesque villages in the Kii Mountains.
Nachi being the terminal station, the train pulled into the station about 20 minutes early. I got myself a bag of peanuts and took my seat on the train. It was a near 4-hour journey back to Tennoji. The hike had taken a toll on me. I turned on my music playlist thinking of the charming elevated temple with the lovely view of Nachi Falls. I spent nearly 8 hours traveling for that one memory of the magnificent vermillion three-story pagoda and I will tell you that it was worth it.
Stretching across the Kii Peninsula on the island of Honshu, the pilgrimage takes us off the beaten track into a world of stunning scenery, soothing hot springs, delicious food. This journey through southern Wakayama and the Kumano Kodo will prove to be one of the most exceptional experiences you will have during your trip.
Thanks for reading. Leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the illuminated Kenrokuen Garden in Kanazawa.
What are the hike challenges?
The Kumano Kodo is a mountain trek with waterfalls and shrines and physically demanding. Set mostly in the deep forest, there are a number of steep ascents and descents along the trail. I would highly recommend walking poles.
Kumano Kodo trail Information
I only covered a fraction of the Kumano Kodo trail. For the full route, please allow 7 days in total, including rest days.
Admission fees
Most of the areas I visited were free. To enter the shrine at the base of Nachi Falls it cost ¥200 per person.
Bus Schedules – Nachi Falls
Provided below are the bus time tables between Kii Katsura Station and Nachi Falls. Please note Nachi Falls is not the terminal stop. There another stop that goes all the way up to Nachisan mountain. Updated March 17th 2018 Timings & fares are subject to change
Bus fare from Kii Katsura Station (Adult / One Way) Daimonzaka: ¥420 Nachisan / Nachi-no-Taki-mae( Falls): ¥620
This is a three-part story which began at dawn, with me traveling all the way from Nara to Wakayama. In Wakayama, Sandanbaki Cliffs wes the first place I visited. After spending a couple of hours at the cliffs I walked down to the lovely Shirahama beach.
The bright morning had grown into a lovely afternoon. I was in the mood for a long walk, so I left the white sands of Shirahama Beach and started my walk towards Engetsu Island.
Engetsu Island is a small white sandstone island just off Shirahama’s coast in Wakayama Prefecture. From the beach, it took me about 30 minutes on foot to reach the Engetsu viewpoint. Buses are available, but they run at long intervals, so you have to time yourself perfectly or you will end up losing a lot of time waiting.
Engetsu Island
Engetsu Island
The rock island’s formal name is Takashima, but it is widely known as Engetsuto, which is literally translated to “round moon island”. This is due to the round-shaped arch in the center of the island. Along the coast there are several points where stairs lead down into the rock formations. It was still early so I walked past the sunset viewpoint towards the end of the coastline.
Engetsu Island is also a place of historical significance, as it was the site of a major battle between the Taira and Minamoto clans during the Genpei War in the 12th century.
Road to Engetsu Island
On the way I passed an aquarium and a Glass boat ride. The rides on the glass boat are scheduled at hourly intervals. I had a free ticket to the glass boat from my all day pass but I was more in anticipation of seeing the thrilling sunset.
Boating near Engetsu Island
As I walked past the dock, I saw a cave at the edge of the coast. I had some 30 minutes on my clock so I went inside. It’s a small cave that opens up towards the sea.
The entrance to the cave on the coast of Shirahama
I was thirsty after the long walk. After grabbing a Coke from a nearby vending machine, I started my walk back to the sunset viewpoint.
Sunset at Engetsu Island
The tide was low and the rocky banks were a perfect place to sit and gaze at this marvel of nature. I went down and sat at one of the boulders nearest to the sunset point. At times the tide goes so low that people can even walk to the island, but it is forbidden because the island is not very stable and sea urchins lying on the sea-bottom can cause injuries.
Setting up my gear to take the sunset shot of Engetsu Island
The island’s sandstone rocks have become less stable throughout the years The arch was artificially repaired in 2011 to make it earthquake-proof. I sat there for some time, lost in the stunning beauty amidst the sea.
A lovely sunset on Engetsu Island
As the sun slowly descended, I went up the stairs to the viewpoint. A small crowd had gathered, mostly locals. The sun was almost ready to show itself inside the hollow arch, so I quickly set up my gear and got ready for the iconic shot. Some thick clouds on the horizon did not allow the sun to stay for long.It came and went away so fast, but I got my shot!
This shot was taken handheld as a huge crowd had gathered to witness the amazing sun as it passed within the arch of Engetsu
Sun passing through the arch of Engetsu Island
After the sunset I walked back towards the beach. Buses are rare this side of the town and I hoped to have better luck getting one from near Shirahama beach. However on reaching the bus stop, I figured it was best if I walked back all the way to the station rather than wait half an hour for the next bus to come along.
Because I walked to most of the places, I didn’t use the bus pass to its full extent. The train arrived on time and I was on my way back home.
Engetsu Island is a unique blend of natural beauty and human history. The island’s unique shape, picturesque scenery and the lighthouse are some of the main attractions that draw visitors to the island. The island is also a popular spot for photography, with its beautiful landscapes, sunsets and sunrises. A day trip from Osaka to Wakayama can be easily done and if you start early you can visit all the three interesting spots that I was able to cover. After the day tour, the sunset at Engetsu is like a cherry topping. If you are in Shirahama, it a must visit place. An all day bus pass costs 1100 Yen. It covers all the major attractions in Shirahama including the thrilling Sandanbeki cliffs.
Thanks for reading. Please do leave me a comment if you liked the post follow my story as I come back to Wakayama in a couple of days to visit the magnificent Nachi Falls.
The freezing cold of previous week was gone. The Nara sky was again an endless blue and, even though it was a work weekday, we just couldn’t let this awesome weather go to waste. We still had the Surutto Kansai Pass with us. So we decided to go explore some incredible creatures of the sea at Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan.
The Surutto Pass does not cover any JR trains, so we took a train from Kintetsu Nara Station to Osaka Namba. From there we made a short halt at Umeda. From there we took the Osaka Subway Midosuji Line to Hommachi. At Hommachi, we transferred to the Chuo line to Osakako station. We disembarked from subway at Osakako station and walked down to the Osaka Kaiyukan which is about a 10 minute walk away.
As we neared the Aquarium, we found the huge, red-colored, Tenpozan Ferris Wheel looming over us. Its one of the larger wheels I have seen to date. Definitely bigger than the one we rode on in Rinku Town. The Red and Navy colored, Kaiyukan Aquarium is just next to Tenpozan wheel. It was already 2 pm so before entering the Aquarium, we stepped inside the food court to grab some lunch. I had a large bowl of French Fries and Mani got herself a plate of Pasta.
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After lunch, we headed towards the Kaiyukan Aquarium. The Kaiyukan (海遊館) is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Osaka. Conceived in 1990 by Peter Chermayeff, it holds some 580 species of marine life. The Japanese name, Kaiyukan literally means ‘Playing in the Sea Pavilion’. The aquarium is enormous and holds various exhibits from the Pacific. Mani got the tickets while I took some pictures of the Aquarium building. Admission tickets cost us 2300 Yen each.
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The tour begins at the Aqua Gate – a tubular ceiling aquarium of colorful fishes. From the tube, we came out from the other end into a replica of a Japan forest. In the Japan Forest section we saw a few Asian small-clawed Otters having fun in an artificially created waterfall. From the open area, we went down a series of steps into a long spiral path.
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The aquarium is a 7-storey structure with various exhibits centered around a large central tank that spans the entire height of the building. The central tank itself holds about 11,000 tons of water. We started the tour on the top floor and made our way down the building in a spiral around the central tank. The upper sections of the building holds some land animals as well. We passed an Otter, some penguins from Antarctica and a bunch of Sea Lions. Luckily for us it was Sea Lion feeding time and they were performing. It was a Wednesday afternoon and we yet had this massive crowd in front of us. After enjoying the performance, we moved along the route towards the fish tanks. Right after the Sea Lions is a tank full of colorful fishes from the Great Barrier Reef. The various tanks along the path harbor over 480 different types of fish, most I have never heard of. Some like the Hammerhead, I remember reading about from my heavy Encyclopedia book in my school years.
The Pacific Ocean tank is the largest and holds Kaiyukan’s largest species. A whale shark called Kai-kun, the world’s largest fish, can be seen at this part of the aquarium, with other equally fascinating fishes like the hammerhead shark and the giant sting rays from the Pacific Rim. The spiral path took us around the Pacific tank and we were able to observe marine life from different depths and perspectives. Towards the bottom of the central tank some seats are set up. I sat there looking at the impressive display of aquatic life. It was extremely relaxing.
Mani asked me why they are kept together, wondering about the smaller ones that could be consumed by the bigger fishes. Well, the theme of the aquarium is based on James Lovelock’s Gaia principle that proposes that organisms interact with their inorganic surroundings on Earth to form a self-regulating, complex system that contributes to maintaining the conditions for life on the planet.
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After some soothing moments in front of the Pacific Ocean tank, we went deeper inside to the lower depths of the aquarium. Arguably the most magical part of the Kaiyukan is the floating Jellyfish section which displays a wide collection of jellyfishes. I am just out of words to explain the excitement that was flowing through me when I laid eyes on those beautiful and tender creatures. After taking some macro shots of the jelly fishes, we headed up an escalator.
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Up the escalator is an open pool with a couple of Ringed Seals from the Arctic. Snow was spread out beside the pool and the seals were having a fun time swimming. Beyond the pool we reached a big fish tank which contained sharks and stingrays from the Maldives. They allow people to touch the fish in this tank with a warning of not to touch the Rays’ tail and the Shark’s mouth. I folded up my sleeves and felt the sting-rays back. It was soft as velvet.
Just before the exit, there is a big gift shop where you can buy cute stuffed animals and souvenirs. I had great fun watching everything from dolphins playing in the water, penguins community gathering, huge Japanese crabs, jelly fish floating up and down, and so many other interesting marine life. Watching all the lovely colorful sea creatures swimming around in larger-than-life tanks was overwhelming. In my opinion, 3 hours is a minimum to see this huge aquarium.
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By the time we exited the aquarium the sun had set into a cold evening. The aquarium and the area around us was illuminated in beautiful blue lights. The Osaka Aquarium is one of the most interesting aquarium exhibits in the world. We walked towards the Tenpozan Ferris Wheel lit up in multi-colored lights.
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Tenpozan Ferris Wheel
In 1997, the Tenpozan Ferris Wheel opened and was established as the world’s largest Ferris wheel. It held the record for two years until 1999, when the Cosmo Clock was built in Yokohama. Along with the aquarium and its exhibits, visitors also come to enjoy a ride on this giant wheel. The Ferris wheel is 100 meters in diameter and reaches just over 112 meters high. For 700 Yen you can enjoy the spectacular views from this phenomenal Ferris wheel.
Cosmo Square
It was late evening and my back was aching from lugging the tripod all day. But the excitement of the aquarium egged me on and we went for a light stroll at Cosmo Square waterfront. It’s just one station from Osakako. One can see the beautiful Osaka skyline from here. The wind was strong and cold. My fingers were freezing as I took some shots of the Tenpozan Ferris Wheel from here. After chatting on the water-front for about half an hour, we headed back to Nara.
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Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan Faqs
Timings
Opening Times:
10 a.m.-8 p.m. Last entry one hour prior to the closing time. Extended hours during holidays.
Entrance Fees:
2,300 Yen
Directions
Five minutes walk from Osakako Station on the Osaka Municipal Subway Chuo Line.
The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, with a length of almost four kilometers, is the world’s longest suspension bridge. Opened in 1998, it spans the Akashi Strait (Akashi Kaikyo) between Kobe and Awaji Island and is part of the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway.
Prior to the bridge’s construction, the strait was considered one of the world’s most dangerous waterways. For instance, in 1955 a severe storm caused two ferries to sink resulting in the deaths of 168 people.
How to get to Akashi Kaikyo
If you are coming from Osaka, you have to get down at the Maiko Station, on the Sanyo Line. Shinkansen trains don’t stop here, you have to use a local train. I had purchased a Kansai Wide Pass. If you want to stop at various stations just to take photos this pass makes it very cheap to travel around the Kansai region.
Once you come out of the Maiko station, you will have to cross the road and walk past the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge Exhibition Center on the left. A few meters away a small lane goes right to the edge of the Akashi Strait.
It took 180,000 tonnes of steel to complete the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at dusk
It is a substantial 6-lane road bridge that connects Kobe on the main island of Honshu with Iwyaya on the smaller Japanese island of Awaji. This, in turn, is linked to the island of Shikoku via the Ōnaruto Bridge over the Naruto Strait.
The bridge was originally planned by the Japanese National Railways (now JR) in the mid-1950’s, as part of a rail link between the islands of Honshu and Shikoku. In 1975, after an exhaustive study, the Japanese government elected to build JR’s bridge, the Seto Bridge, over a much shorter span closer to Okayama. If you have been to the island of Shikoku by rail, you must have already used this route.
About 300,000 kilometers of cabling was used in the bridge’s construction
Ranita & Viki at Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
The length of the bridge alone presented a tremendous challenge to the engineers, but that wasn’t the only issue they had to face in designing this monumental structure. For one, the bridge also had to be tall enough to let boat traffic in the strait pass unimpeded.
As the bridge stands in a seismically unstable part of the world, engineers also needed to ensure its design would stand the test of time. To this end, the bridge includes a complex system of counterweights, pendulums, and steel-truss girders that allow the bridge to withstand wind speeds of up to 290 km/h. The foundation depth of the bridge is equivalent to that of a 20-storey apartment. Yet despite its inherent strength, the bridge is also able to expand and contract several times a day.
The rocky bank is a beautiful spot to take a shot of the lovely bridge. I had reached the spot at around 5 pm. The bridge is exactly 3,911 meters long, has three spans supported by two main supporting towers that stand 297 meters apiece and a series of anchoring cables. This makes Akashi Kaikyo Bridge also one of the world’s tallest.
Ranita at Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Light was pretty bright. At first I took some shots with a 10-stop ND filter. They came out okay. I wasn’t too excited to see the results since the skies had no drama.
The bridge is used by around 25,000 cars everyday
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
How I took captured Night View of Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
After that I walked further west along the coast but couldn’t find a better spot, so I walked back to the earlier spot and waited for the lights to come on and then took this shot. I used the 10-24mm nikkor at 24mm on my Nikon D7100. I lowered the aperture to F16 to slow down the shutter speed to get the water to look smooth.
The Akashi–Kaikyo bridge has a total of 1,737 illumination lights!
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge at twilight
The Akashi–Kaikyo bridge has a total of 1,737 illumination lights: 1,084 for the main cables, 116 for the main towers, 405 for the girders and 132 for the anchorages. Sets of three high-intensity discharge lamps in the colors red, green and blue are mounted on the main cables. The RGB colour model and computer technology make for a variety of combinations.
How long did it take to build the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge?
Ten years (1988 -1998)
What is the longest span bridge in the world?
Akashi Kaikyo Bridge
Why is the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge called the Pearl Bridge?
The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge is called the ‘Pearl Bridge’ because of the 28 different patterns and various colors of lights used to illuminate her at night. When illuminated it gives the appearance of beautiful pearls on a necklace.
My inquisitiveness in Owls started in the summer of 2015. We had just come back to my hometown in Kolkata from Bangalore. In our absence of almost two years, an owl family had taken up residence in the loft of our apartment.
During evenings, the mother Owl would, every once in a while take out the younglings for training. Once the kids grew up, they eventually left the loft. So, imagine my surprise when on my walks in Nara and Kyoto, I frequently came across shops selling various owl figurines, cell phone dangles, stickers, key chains, phone covers and even dining ware. Apart from shops what got me even more curious was that many houses had these owl figurines installed in front, beside the entrance. I had to find out more about why the Owls are so popular in Japanese culture.
Owls are one of the oldest species, dating back 60 million years. Throughout the history of mankind, the owl has featured significantly in mythology & folklore. Owls have been both revered throughout many civilisations from ancient to more recent times. They have long been associated with magic and wizardry in Western mythology and is a symbol of wisdom that many in the West are familiar with, but owls also hold special meaning in Japan.
In Japan, owls are perceived to bring luck and offer protection from suffering. Mani was a great help in how the Japanese created the word for Owls. Japanese Kanji is very logical and they use letters that symbolize the end word. Fukuro フクロウ (梟), which can be written in different sets of characters: One with the meaning of luck (福 fuku, luck; 来ku, to come; 郎 ro suffix used in boys’ names), and the other as protection from hardship (不 fu, no, 苦労 kurou suffering/hardship).
I am not superstitious , but I grew up in a highly superstitious country where even seeing a black cat means bad luck. So, for me, as long as it does not hurt somebody, I find it very entertaining.
With their lucky symbolism, owl lucky charms and trinkets make popular souvenirs and gifts. They are a great way to wish a friend or loved one good fortune, and a life free from hardship and troubles. Typically gifts bearing the motif of owls are also given to loved ones as souvenirs or for well wishing.This is why an enormous variety of owl merchandise and souvenirs can be found in modern Japan.
Digging deeper I chanced upon a website that talks about the Ainu tribes of Northern Japan and their connection with Owls.
Ainu are the indigenous people of Japan that inhabit the northernmost parts of Japan in Hokkaido. According to legends, Chikap Kamuy is a great owl that watches over the land and its inhabitants. Blakiston’s Fish Owl (Ketupa blakistoni) is one of the most important gods of the native Ainu people of Hokkaido, in Japan. It is called “kotan kor kamuy”, which translates to “god of the village” or “god who defends the village”.
The Ainu in Japan trust the Owl because it gives them notice of evil approaching. They revere the Owl, and believe it mediates between the Gods and men. The bird features prominently in Japanese folklore where it is considered both to be sacred and to have magical powers. The Ainu place carved Owls on their houses to ward off famine and pestilence.
I have seen many representations of owls in the Nara & Kyoto, ranging from statues placed in gardens to lucky charms. My knowledge is still limited to the English websites and ebooks I could get my hands onto. I am certain the indigenous Japanese folk will have a much thorough understanding of the bond they share with Owls. I would love to learn more so kindly leave a comment below if you have any inputs on this subject.
It was a grey Sunday. The clouds had enveloped Nara and everything appeared gloomy. We had plans for Kyoto but seeing the depressing weather, we decided to go a bit far to escape the elements and thus the plan to visit the Ninja town of Iga Ueno came to happen.
Iga Ueno is a small town located in mountains of western Mie. It is particularly famous as the birthplace of the Iga Ninja spies & the art of Ninjutsu, but it also hides within its boundaries a few other secrets.
The origins of the Ninja is somewhat shrouded in secrecy. The art was practiced by the Shinobi or Ninja that rose to prominence during Japan’s Sengoku period in the 14th-century, but then some records also show the practice to be around as early as the Heian Era (794 CE to 1185 CE).
Ninjutsu is a systemized art of warfare used by the Ninjas, for the specific purpose of espionage. Ninjutsu developed mainly in the regions of Iga in Mie Prefecture, and Koka in Shiga Prefecture in Japan. In the village of Iga, Ninjas honed their unique skills using psychology and pharmacology, combined with martial arts.
The Ninjas would infiltrate into the enemy’s ranks, undetected using their special skills, mostly with the objectives of scouting, and obtaining valuable information. Point to note that they were predominantly spies and not warriors.
Did you know that Ninjas have been known by different names during different periods of Japanese history. Today we know them as Ninjas, because that name stuck and became popular in the Western world.
Nara to Iga Ueno
To go to Iga Ueno from Nara, one has to catch a train from JR Nara Station to KamoStation and then switch to a local train to Iga-Ueno Station. The route should be the same if you are coming from Osaka or Kyoto.
Tickets for the full length of the travel can be purchased at one go. It cost us ¥670 per head. The platforms have information boards in English as well Japanese, so it was not difficult to follow the instructions.
The ride to Kamo was uneventful. The lush paddy fields looked lifeless in the constant drizzle. At Kamo Station, a blue colored, two coach train was waiting for us. This connecting train would take us all the way to Iga Ueno.
The rain had relented by then, leaving behind a mysterious mist. A large group of kids dressed in scout uniforms joined us on the train bringing some cheer to the otherwise mundane coach.
Train ride to Iga Ueno
After Kamo, the train tracks run parallel to the Yasu River. The ride through this part of Mie Prefecture is very-picturesque. It felt like going into a mystical land. We chugged across several bamboo forests and then into the mountains engulfed by the thick mist.
The group of kids got down at Kasagi Station. They were probably heading for the Kasagi Camping Grounds by the Yasu River. Quite a few tents could be seen right from the train windows, set up on the edges of the river bed.
Mountains surrounding Iga Ueno
We reached Iga Ueno Station by noon. The skies had cleared up a bit, but it was still gray all around. The outside of the station was desolate with not a person in sight. You can find a bike rental just beside the station, if you are interested. The staff at the station was very helpful. They provided us a map with directions and helpful markings, towards Ueno Castle.
If you are coming by train get down at Uenoshi Station which is located a mere five to ten minute walk from Ueno Castle.
Iga Ueno Station
The castle is about 3 km away from the station. It was going to be a long walk, but it was fun walking in the cool breeze, chatting away with my wife, Mani. Coming from a crowded country like India, it felt a bit strange seeing absolutely no people around. Even the petrol pump we passed was unmanned. Time and again a car would pass us by, and that was it.
A few minutes into the walk, a car stopped and an elderly lady walked out towards us. She offered us a ride to our destination, but we politely declined, as it was much more interesting walking nonchalantly past this desolate yet beautiful suburb. She was the only person I would see for the rest of the way.
Bridge over Hattori River
Midway to the castle, we crossed the bridge over Hattori river. Hattori Hanzo is one of the most famous Ninja Grandmaster from Iga. The river was named after him.
Hattori River
A few minutes after passing the bridge, we found ourselves near a field of Cosmos flowers. Cosmos is the seasonal word for “autumn” in Japan. It’s Kanji “秋桜” means “autumn cherry blossom”. Fields of cosmos can be seen in many places in Japan because they are easy to grow as long as they get a lot of sunshine.
Cosmos Flowers in Iga
Just before the entrance to the castle park, we stumbled upon an orange colored post box. I haven’t seen one like these in India for quite some time now. It lends a nostalgic feel to the surrounding along with the old wooden houses.
The history of Japan’s mail box began in 1871. Over the years, predominantly in the urban areas, its shape has changed into a rectangular box shape and seeing this original version, felt like we were transported to a medieval world.
Old style Post Box in Iga
After walking some 40 odd-minutes from the station, we were finally at the Ueno Castle grounds. The area surrounding the castle is a park, and the atmosphere is very relaxing. Tall trees decorate the path all the way up to the castle.
Viki at Iga Ueno Castle Grounds
The sidewalks were littered with acorns fallen from the trees. I picked up some for feeding them to the Shika deer in Nara Park. With no one to point us in the right direction, we just kept following the map.
Ueno Castle, Iga
After the moat, a winding stone staircase leads you up to the Castle. After the morning showers, the old stone steps were wet and had moss growing at the edges. It was quite slippery to walk so we took our time as neither of us were in a hurry.
Moat and Stone Wall surrounding Iga Ueno Castle
At the end of the stairs, you can find the looming castle surrounded by Momiji trees. Unlike numerous other Japanese castles which were recreated in the twentieth century utilizing concrete, Iga Ueno Castle was revamped with wood just, giving it a wonderful, unique look and environment.
Stone stairs leading to Iga Ueno Castle
Construction on Iga Ueno Castle began in 1585 CE on the command of Takigawa Katsutoshi. His successor Tsutsui Sadatsugu built the honmaru and three level main keep. After the Battle of Sekigahara (1608), Sadatsugu’s lands were confiscated by the Tokugawa and given to Todo Takatora. Todo Takatora renovated the Honmaru, increasing the walls height to 30-meters, to fortify the defenses against any resurgence by Sadatsugu’s followers, which to this day remains the tallest among all castles in Japan.
Iga Ueno Castle
We sat on a bench in front of the castle for some time staring at one of the most beautiful architecture, I have laid my eyes upon in recent times. Because of its pure white color and mesmerizing beauty, the castle is also known as “Hakuho” or “White Phoenix Castle.”
Todo Takatora’s main keep was originally never completed, so the current keep was created using designs from nearby structures.
Iga Ueno Castle
Exhibits at Iga Ueno Castle
Iga Ueno Castle was designated as a national treasure in 1967. The castle has three floors, with historical artifacts displayed on each floor. The ticket booth in inside the castle on the first floor. Admission tickets cost us ¥500 each. Before you enter the castle, you will have to leave your shoes at the shoe stall near the entrance to the Hall. The first floor exhibits various armor and weapons used in battle.
Kofun period Samurai Armor
The most important of the exhibits is a seated model of Todo Takatora and his famous hat, which is on display both as a replica, as well as the original behind a glass case. Just in case you’re wondering, Todo Takatora was the successor of Tsutsui Sadatsugu.
A seated model of Todo Takatora and his famous hat
As an innovative architect for many castles, Takatora developed techniques for building bigger, stronger, cheaper Sotogata type tenshu keeps, being much faster and cheaper to build than the traditional Borogata style keeps. His castles were also famed for their steep, high walls, particularly those of Iga Ueno Castle. He also perfected the Masugata type, or Death Box of gate systems, greatly strengthening the defense of the many castles he designed.
Visitors can see the intricate details of traditional body armor and battle helmets up close as they walk through the exhibition room. Fortunately photography is allowed inside.
Samurai head gear
A sujikabuto is a type of helmet that occurred in the late Kamakura period and the Northern and Southern eras of Japan. Unlike a star helmet, it does not show the studs that hold the iron plates that form the helmet body, but twists the edges of the iron plates to make the joints look like streaks.
A Sujikabuto helmet on display at Iga Ueno Castle
You can also find a miniature model of the Iga Ueno Castle among the exhibits.
Miniature model of Iga Ueno Castle
Below you can find a couple of wakizashi swords on display at the museum. The wakizashi has a blade between 30 and 60 cm. The katana was the big or long sword and the wakizashi the “little” or companion sword. It being carried together with the katana was the official sign that the wearer was a samurai or swordsman.
The wakizashi is a traditionally made Japanese sword worn by the samurai in feudal Japan
Swords on display at Iga Ueno Castle
Iga-yaki
An extremely narrow wooden staircase leads up to the second floor. This floor displays ceramic utensils from the Edo Period (1603-1868). Iga has a long history with ceramics and its utensils referred to as Iga yaki have come to be loved by many masters of the tea ceremony.
Ceramic Teapot
The history of Japanese ceramics began with Jomon earthenware, followed by Yayoi (300 BCE – 250 CE) and later in the Kofun period (300 CE to 538 CE) the technique was succeeded by Hajiware and haniwa terracotta figures. Iga yaki is a specially referred to the porcelain produced in this area, surrounding the city of Iga.
In ancient times, the ever-popular Lake Biwa, which is now limited to the Shiga prefecture, used to extended all the way to Iga. Over centuries, even though the lake gradually receded from the area, it left behind its rich clay. This clay fostered the production of Iga yaki, an art of earth and fire that has withstood the test of time.
Iga ware’s origins are believed to date to the second half of the 7th century and 8th century CE, during the Nara period (710-794). Shigaraki and Iga, which are adjacent to each other have had a close relationship since the medieval period in terms of pottery styles. Back then, there was not a significant difference between Iga ware and Shiga-raki styles. It was often said that there are “Handles on Iga, no handles on Shigaraki,” since the handle was almost the only difference that distinguished the products of the two localities.
Ceramic Kettle
The items baked at the time were mainly mortars and pots. These early Iga ware is referred to as “old Iga” (Ko-Iga). These usually had wavelike patterns made by spatula scraping or stamped lattice patterns.
The main point of divergence from Iga-ware came during the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1574–1600), when tea ceremony culture was also flourishing. Many distinctive pieces of Iga ware were produced at this time, including pieces with wave-like patterns that were created using spatulas or a technique of deliberately breaking the piece by hand to generate an “out-of-tune beauty”.
Ceramic Vase
Characteristically, Iga ware has a asymmetrical beauty created by deliberately distorting well-shaped forms and making each piece unique. This style of Iga-ware was backed by Tsutsui Sadatsugu, feudal lord of what was then Iga province, and Takatora Todo, also a feudal lord. These kinds of pieces were particularly prized in tea ceremonies for the sense of wabi-sabi they evoked. The most well-known kilns were at Makiyama and Marubashira, in the Ayama district of Iga city.
Iga ware uses local clay which is extremely resistant to heat, reacts well to repeated firing, and is fired over three days in a kiln dug into the ground. The clay tends to have a high level of hardness and is created on a pottery wheel. The potter delicately uses a spatula to give curvature. This distinctive curve lets the flames lick over the round edge. Furthermore, tiny pebbles in the clay give it additional surface texture.
The surface texture of Iga ware comes about from the long firing at high temperatures whereby the ashes fall on the pots and turn a glassy green. Features such as ash glaze, black scorching, and cracks can all be seen as natural effects of the firing process. The reddish color of Iga ware is a result of the red flames hitting the grainy stone textured clay in the kiln. When moistened, the glassy green glaze on these vessels glistens, heightening the taste of foods or sake.
Ceramic Vase
The lugs on an Iga ware vase are called “ears” (mimitsuki). Vases tend to be made out of rough clay, sometimes with tiny white stones added. In the past these were kneaded by hand, which gave it a distorted form and thus character, but later production by wheel also developed.
Iga-ware does not use applied glaze. Instead it is fired at a very high temperature in a kiln causing it to crystallize in a reddish hue, often with brown-grey scorch marks caused by log ashes called koge, and a translucent green ash glaze from the burning wood forms. This occurs when firewood ash melts at 1400 Celsius.
Artifacts
Since they are free of impurities, a clear jade translucent glass called biidoro is created. Sometimes the biidoro glass coagulates to form a globule called a “dragonfly eye.” The clay’s durability means it can be fired multiple times without cracking, sometimes up to three times. The ash glaze builds up in layers and produces a translucence which does not form in modern gas-fired kilns.
The walls on this level contain pictures of some of the most important castles in Japan. While Mani was checking out the artifacts, I was taking mental notes of the castles I must visit on my next trip to Japan. From here a wooden staircase leads to the observatory on the third floor where visitors can gaze upon the whole town.
City of Iga from the top of the Iga Ueno Castle
It was a bit early for the Fall, but in the mountains, the leaves had already started to change color.
Fall foliage leaves at Iga Ueno Castle
Iga-ryu Ninja House
After coming out of the Castle, we walked around on the grounds. We came across a souvenir shop. It was a bit crowded, so we decided to come back to it later. A few meters beyond the shop we reached the Ninja House. Tickets to the Ninja House costs ¥700 each. They organize an immersive Ninja martial art demonstration for visitors.
The Iga-ryu Ninja House is maintained by actual descendants of Ninjas. The innocuous house is full of smart contraptions, such as trick doors (Shikakedo), secret passages (Nukemichi) and even false floors to hide weapons. A lady guide, dressed as Kunoichi (female ninja), demonstrated to us how these were used by the Ninjas to avoid conflict or overpower stronger foes.
Room by room, the lady showed us how the Ninjas set up hidden traps in preparation for enemy attacks. Ordinary-looking walls that revolve so Ninjas could hide behind to attack unsuspecting enemies. Hidden escape routes that secretly lead outside of the house. It was fun!
The annual “Iga Ueno Ninja Festa” is held from 1st April to 4th May. During that time the city comes to life with many exhibits, competitions and the opportunity for the visitors to practice their Ninja skills.
Iga-ryu Ninja Museum
After the marvelous show at Ninja House, we walked towards the Ninja Tradition Hall. The Ninja Tradition Hall is a place where visitors can learn about the history of Ninja and look at documents and other materials. In the hall, various tools are displayed, including weapons, code books and gunpowder.
Mannequin dressed as a Ninja at Iga-Ryu
I found some peasant dolls near the entrance. If you are interested in Japanese dolls, try to visit the Saitama Doll Museum.
Dolls on display at the Ninja Museum of Iga-Ryu
Here we can see various types of weapons on display, that the Ninjas used. Makibishi are sharp spiked objects that were used in feudal Japan by the Ninjas to slow down pursuers. These iron caltrops could penetrate the thin soles of the shoes such as the waraji sandals that were commonly worn in feudal Japan.
Makibishi on display at Iga-Ryu
The most popular, Shuriken (throwing blades) are on display here. Also known as throwing stars or ninja stars, the Shuriken were originally designed in many different shapes.
These weapons were thrown to inflict a wound on the enemy. Ninjas used to poison the edges of the blade of Shuriken to make it more potent. Although the range of Shuriken is short about 6 to 7 meter with an expert, it could be said that Shuriken was an excellent weapon in times of eluding pursuit.
Ninja weapons on display at Ninja Museum of Iga-Ryu
You can also find the Sojin-gama tools here. The Sojin-gama was originally a farming tool but could easily double up as a weapon. Because of its use in farming, Ninjas could move around with it without arousing any suspicion.
Sojin-gama on display at Iga-Ryu
Here we see a Mizugumo on display. The devices were worn on the feet to walk on water. However it was not really meant for walking on water but though marshy areas where regular shoes would stick in the mud .
Mizugumo
Towards the end of the hall is the museum shop, Ninjabo. They sell various ninja goods, including ninja stars. We bought some souvenirs from here.
On our way back we stopped at a Ramen shop for lunch at the Aikat-tei restaurant. The restaurant lies inside the castle grounds near the museum.
Ramen from the Aikan-Tei Resturant
After lunch we walked across to the souvenir shop and bought a few gifts. We wandered around the grounds for a bit and then started on the long walk back to the Iga Ueno Station. The old, meandering streets were still very empty, which was kind of nice as we could enjoy the old houses without the usual crowds.
Paddy fields near Iga Ueno Castle
On the way we stopped for a bit at a Mall along the road. I bought some Meiji chocolates for gifting friends in India and then we were back on the road to the train station. As we walked past the Hattori river, it was looking lovely in the dying sunlight.
Evening over Hattori River
The clouds had gathered again. The sun was fighting with the thick clouds to take a peep at the Earth by the time we reached the station. The local trains are scheduled every hour, so we had to wait for a while before the train came along.
Waiting for train at Iga Ueno Station
From the train, I took some beautiful dusk shots as we headed back to Nara.
Sunset over Iga
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the home of Buddha – Todai-ji.
Built
1585 CE
Built by
Tsutsui Sadatsugu
Admission Fees
¥ 500 (Castle only) ¥ 1500 yen (Castle, Ninja Museum and Danjiri Kaikan)
Which is the nearest station to Iga Ueno Castle
Ueno Castle is located a five to ten minute walk north of Uenoshi Station.
Weekend was finally here. I had been slugging long nights working during US business hours and needed a break badly. We had been planning to visit Kyoto during one of the extended weekends but it was impossible to get a hotel booking. Eventually we decided to just go, roam around and come back the same day. Its hardly an hour away anyways, less if one uses the Limited Express trains.
We got up early, had a light breakfast and walked down to Kintetsu Nara Station. We caught the Limited Express to Kyoto, it cost us ¥ 1300 each. You can also catch a train from JR Nara Statation, whichever is closest to you. Its almost double of the local train, but being an express train, its about 20 minutes faster.
The train arrived in a few minutes. The seat numbers and the platform were printed on the ticket, so we didn’t face any difficulty boarding the train. The Kintetsu Nara Station is underground. The train rose above the ground a few minutes into the journey. It cruised past most stations only stopping at a handful and were in Kyoto in 35 minutes.
Catching the Kintetsu Limited Express to Kyoto from Nara
Day tour of Kyoto
Nara is a quiet city. Coming from there, I was taken aback by the bustling crowd at Kyoto Station. We walked down to the Information Center. A guy at the counter gave us a map and a bus information sheet. The sheet contained various permutations for sightseeing the interesting places in Kyoto along with respective Bus numbers. He also provided us with an all day bus pass for ¥ 500 each.
Nijo Castle
The first stop on our route was Nijo Castle. It takes around 20 minutes to reach the castle from Kyoto Station. As we got down, I was a bit disappointed seeing the entrance gate covered up for repairs. Thankfully it was only the front gate that was being repaired. The admission tickets cost ¥ 600 per person. A wide gravel path took us towards the main gate of Ninomaru Palace inside the castle.
Nijo-jo is a flat land castle. It was constructed in 1603 CE as the residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokugawa Ieyasu(1542-1616) was the founder and first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan. The castle consists of two concentric rings of fortifications, the Ninomaru Palace and the ruins of the Honmaru Palace.
The Nijo Castle gate
The sun was playing hide & seek. We stood near the beautifully crafted gate decorated with lavish quantities of gold leaf and elaborate wood carvings trying to get a clear shot of the gate. Eventually we surrendered to the steady flow of people and went inside the Ninomaru Palace. One has to take off their shoes to go inside the palace. Photography is not allowed inside.
The Ninomaru Palace is famous for its “nightingale floors” which were designed to squeak when stepped on and thus alert guards to any intruders
The Ninomaru Palace is famous for its “nightingale floors” which were designed to squeak when stepped on and thus alert guards to any intruders. Inside, we came across a huge room with life-size sculptures depicting the shogun meeting the warlords (Daimyo). The Ninomaru Palace contains gorgeous paintings on the walls. They are painted in rich colors depicting flowers, trees, birds and tigers. I was surprised not to see a single furniture in any of the chambers. Mani reminded me, the Japanese didn’t use any, in ancient times.
As we went deeper inside the castle, I observed some of smaller chambers were painted differently. A plaque before us told us that the shogun used to have different guest chambers for each season. Each of these chambers were painted differently, to give a feel of that particular season. These paintings are said to be created by the revered artist Kano and his sons.
After touring the Ninomaru Palace, we took a leisurely stroll through the wonderful Seiryu-en Garden, which surrounds the castle. The castle grounds houses a beautiful rock pond with a tiny waterfall.
The beautiful landscaped Seiryu-en Garden surrounds the Castle
A narrow path led us to a bigger garden with groves of plum and cherry trees. Another deep moat surrounds the remains of the Honmaru Palace. A stone bridge over the moat went inside the castle.
The bridge across the moat to Honmaru Palace
I wanted to roam around a bit more on the grounds, so we didn’t go inside. We circled around the castle and reached the rear gate. The rear gate was huge, with thick wooden doors.
Honmaru Palace Gate
Past the stone walls, a staircase leads to a high lookout point. From here one can keep a good watch over the inside moat and the gardens.
Nijo Castle Grounds
We roamed around in the garden for some time and then headed back to the bus stop for Kinkaku-ji.
Opening hours: 8.45am-5pm, last entry 4pm
Closed: Tuesdays in December, January, July, August, and December 26 – January 4
Admission: Adults: 600 Yen
Kinkaku-ji
The bus dropped us off in front of the temple. We were hungry from all the walking so we sauntered down the road looking for an eatery. There are rows of restaurants. Mani wanted to have Soba Udon so we hunted around a bit for one that served. After a warm light lunch, we walked back towards Kinkaku-ji.
I had some Udon for lunch
Kinkaku-ji was built in 1393 CE as a retirement villa for Shogun Yoshimitsu Ashikaga (1358-1409). He intended to cover the exterior with gold, but only managed to coat the ceiling of the third floor with gold leaf before his death. The shogun lived here in luxury as Kyoto’s people suffered from severe famine, earthquakes and plague. After Yoshimitsu’s death, as indicated in his will, the building, officially named Rokuon-ji was converted into a temple of the Zen sect of Buddhism.
Kinkaku-ji burned down several times during the Onin War. In 1950, the Golden Pavilion got burned again, this time by a fanatical monk. The present temple structure dates from 1955, which was rebuilt true to the original except for a significant enhancement: both upper stories are covered in gold leaf, in accordance with Ashikaga’s original intentions. In 1987, the temple was re-covered in gold leaf five times thicker than the original coating. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage, Kinkaku-ji is one of the historical buildings most representative of Japan.
As we neared the temple the crowd also grew. Kinkaku-ji must be on everyone’s “must-see” list. This was the only place where we had to get in a queue for admission tickets. The entrance was packed with hoards of tourists. As we went inside I was finding it difficult to even move freely, such was the crowd. A few meters inside I understood why!
My eyes transfixed on the Golden Pavilion (kinka-ku), sitting picturesquely in its garden at the edge of a lake. The pavilion extends partially over the pond and is beautifully reflected in the calm waters from here. I slowly pushed and shoved till I was able to reach the railing overseeing the lake. We stood there admiring one of the most beautiful sights in Kyoto. No wonder there is so much crowd!
The Golden Pavilion built in 1393 as a retirement villa for Shogun Yoshimitsu Ashikaga
We walked up the path getting closer to the temple. The wooden pavilion has three stories surrounded by balconies, the upper two of which are completely covered in gleaming gold leaf. The shogun only managed to gild the interior ceiling, but he always intended to cover the outside as well. In addition to its worldly treasure, Kinkaku-ji is highly valuable because it is a shariden, housing relics of the Buddha. The first floor of the pavilion, known as the Hôsuiin (“Temple of Dharma Water”), is built in the shinden style associated with 11th-century Heian nobility. The walls separating it from the balcony only rise half-way, allowing plenty of light and fresh air into the room.
Kinkakuji was initially intended to be covered fully in gold but The Shogun died before it could be completed
The second story, called the Chôondô (“Tower of Sound Waves”), is built in the buke style of samurai houses. It houses a statue of Kannon. The third floor of Kinkaku-ji is built in the style of a Buddha Hall in a Zen temple and is known as the Kukkyocho. It has round-headed windows and is more richly ornamented than the other floors. Inside, it shelters an Amida triad and 25 Bodhisattvas. The roof is topped with a golden Chinese phoenix.
The roof of the Golden Pavilion is topped with a golden Chinese phoenix
As we walked towards the back, I saw a rock garden called Kyoko-chi, surrounded by the pond with Koi fishes swimming in abundance. We walked around the temple grounds. At the back there are few souvenir stalls. Some locals were selling crackers and wasabi nuts. I just love Wasabi Nuts! It was a wonderful experience at Kinkaku-ji, but I would have preferred less crowds. It was early evening and we hurried towards our next stop.
Opening hours: 9.00am-5pm, last entry 4pm
Closed: Open all days
Admission: Adults: 400 Yen
Kiyomizu-dera
We were a bit out of time, so we skipped Ginkakuji and headed straight to Kiyomizu-dera. On the way we passed Gion. Mani wanted to go there, we plan to go there next time we are in Kyoto. It was almost 4 by the time we reached Kiyomizu-dera bus stop. It’s a long walk to the temple. The narrow alley is lined with sweet & souvenir shops. Hundreds of girls in kimono going up the path. It was like a festival.
Kiyomizu-dera is a historic temple that was established in 778 AD
Kiyomizu-dera, officially Otowa-san Kiyomizu-dera is an independent Buddhist temple in eastern Kyoto. The platform of the main hall, which is supported by 139 giant pillars.
Kiyomizudera
Located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the eastern part of Kyoto City, Kiyomizu-dera is a historic temple that was established in 778 AD. Since its inception, the temple has burned down many times. Most of the current buildings were rebuilt by the third Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in the early Edo period.
The Main Hall (Hondo) of the temple is designated as a national treasure. The temple has many other important cultural properties including the Deva gate, west gate, three-storied pagoda and bell tower. In 1994, it was registered on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List as one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.
The two most famous places of the temple are the Main Hall, where the Eleven Headed and Thousand Armed Kannon Bodhisattva – which is famous for the power of answering prayers – is enshrined and Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a precipice which affords a spectacular view of the town of Kyoto. Along the ravine to the south of the main hall grow cherry and maple trees. This temple is known for its cherry blossoms in the spring, and its red leaves during the fall.
Kiyomizu-dera (the temple of clear water) was named after Otowa Waterfall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been falling there since its foundation. We went down to the Otowa-no-taki, the waterfall where visitors drink for health, longevity, and success in studies. Many visitors had lined up for same and a small queue had built up. After taking a sip of the cold Otowa water we headed towards the three-storied pagoda. In the failing light, the crowd had petered down and we were able to get some good pictures of the pagoda.
The three storied Pagoda at Kiyomizudera
It gets dark very early in Japan. By 5 p.m. it was already very dark. We head back to the bus stop. One the way we stopped for some shopping. The shops were closing down fast. In the little time we got, Mani bought me a Yukata. We also bought a pack of local sweets. While walking back, a guy was selling cuttlefish tempura. It was a bit cold and I totally enjoyed the warm fish.
The bus back to Kyoto Station was extremely crowded. I haven’t been on such a crowded bus since my younger days when I used to go to office in Kolkata.
We took the regular train to Nara. Its cheaper by half (670 Yen), though it took us around an hour to reach Nara. There are days and this was one of “those” days. It was memorable to visit Kinkaku-ji, watching the girls in Kimono on the streets leading to Kiyomizu-dera, and lovely Japanese food.. I sure am having the time of my life 🙂
