Photo walk at Devanahalli Fort

Today I visit one of the oldest flat-land forts near Bangalore. The Devanahalli fort was built many centuries back in 1501 CE, but the most recent fortification was enabled by Hyder Ali which gave the fort its current look.

A tale written in blood

Devanahalli is a small town on the outskirts of Bangalore not more than 40 mins away on the NH7 Highway, very close to Kempegowda International Airport. Devanahalli Fort is one of the rare forts in Karnataka to be built on flat ground. Because of this very structural weakness, it has seen many rulers since the 1500’s.

The original name of Devanahalli was Devanadoddi, dating back to the 15th century. The fort was originally built in 1501 by Malla Baire Gowda, son of a refugee from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu during the rule of the Vijayanagara empire. According to local tales, a group of refugees settled from conjeevaram (present Kanchipuram), near the foothills of Ramaswamy betta. The chief of the tribe Rana Baire Gowda, heir of mosaru wokkalu community, looking for a harmonious settlement for his people was the first to identify the fort location.

At that point in time, the fort was made of only mud structures. It remained under the control of Malla Baire Gowda’s descendants till 1747, when the Wodeyars of Mysore, under the command of Nanja Raja, attacked and occupied the fort. Subsequently, a few years later Devanahalli was usurped by the Marathas.

Eventually, the fort was taken over by Hyder Ali and his successor Tipu Sultan. It was during the reign of Hyder Ali that this fort was converted from mud to the present stone fort. Finally, in 1791 the control of the fort passed to the British under Lord Cornwallis. Throughout its lifetime, the fort has navigated through several dynasties from the emergence of the Vijayanagara empire to the advent of the British.

Ride to Devanahalli

I stay in the Bannerghatta area and it is a long way away from Devanahalli. I woke up at dawn and by 5 a.m I was out on the road looking for a bus. It didn’t take long for one of the air-conditioned buses to come along. The bus dropped me off at the Majestic Bus Stand. I was pleasantly surprised when I realized it just took me 30 minutes to reach majestic. On a regular day, during office hours it usually takes around 2 hours to reach there, such is the beast – the Bangalore traffic!

At the Majestic bus stand, I didn’t have to wait long for a public bus to Devanahalli. On the way as I was passing the wide toll road stretch, I saw the sun looking like a golden ball on the horizon rising in the background of a bunch of teak trees. The bus dropped me off at the eastern gate of the fort. I was surprised to see the inside of the fort encroached by small slum-type houses. I had to walk some 10 mins to get to the western gate where you can find what remains of the fort. The road goes – bam, through the heritage site. You can also find dozens of monkeys loitering around.

The ruins of a fort

The fort is spread over an area of 20 acres. The roughly oval-oriented Fortification veneered with dressed masonry has about 12 semi-circular bastions at regular intervals. If you are coming by your own vehicle go there directly. There is no parking lot. visitors just park their vehicle outside in front of the western gate.

On the insides of the entrance gates, one can see some intricate artwork.

There is a gate on the left, right after the entrance gate that leads to the fortified walls built in brick and lime.

As I walked along the caponier, I could easily make out the rot that has settled in. From the top, you can clearly see a full human settlement inside the fort. Most heritage buildings inside the fort have already been demolished to build their residences. The remaining few are being used as residential units. The house of Dewan Purnaiah, a high-ranking official in Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s court, is also located inside the fort.

The 500-year-old heritage structure is slowly weathering away due to the neglect and apathy of the government. The walls of the fort have developed cracks in many places and parts of it have also collapsed. The locals living inside the prohibited/protected area in the immediate vicinity of the fort are the main culprits. There are small channels along the inner fort walls that allowed water to drain out of the ramparts, thus reducing seepage into the structure.

The small doorway you see above is a small room, created to hold a single soldier at best. It was created for whence attacking troops would somehow scale the action, the soldiers from inside would use spears to attack them, staying protected inside.

All along the caponier, gun points are provided at regular intervals through which soldiers could shoot at the enemy, staying hidden. At many points along the wall, the top layer of cement has come off exposing the carcass of red bricks inside.

The soldiers used to shoot from these gun points, sometimes also pouring burning oil for here to stop soldiers from climbing the walls

Inside the fort are age-old temples dedicated to Venugopalaswamy, Ranganatha, Chandramouleshwara, and other deities. The fort area is also known to consist of several sites and structures resembling watch towers, housing, and defence buildings.

Tipu Sultan is said to be born in the fort town of Devanahalli. You can find a memorial of Tipu Sultan located beside the historic fort. Known as the Khas Bhag, it lies inside a garden full of tamarind and mango trees.

Even though Hyder Ali provided Tipu with the best available education, he turned out to be a tyrant. Some political needs to vote-bait the Muslim community in the 1990’s tried to white-wash his hatred towards the Hindus of this land, but written records passed down the years tell a different tale. He made no secret of his hatred for Hindus. After his death in 1799 in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War and the fall of his capital Srirangapattana to the British, Colonel William Kirkpatrick discovered more than 2000 letters in his palace written in Farsi in Tipu’s own handwriting. In these letters, Tipu refers to Hindus as “kaffirs and infidels,” who needed to be “cleansed (or converted) if the rule of Islam is to be firmly established in India.”

Here again, you can see a small room going down. it could fit a single person for an attack from behind if enemy soldiers would scale the fort.

Like many Muslim rulers who have changed Hindu names of places to rewrite history, Tipu tried to rename Devanahalli as Yousafabad but it never caught on.

As I walked further towards the eastern end, you can see more misery. The fort watchtower, almost in obscurity, is in dire need of preservation. This used to be the watchtower of the fort, now mostly in ruins. The building used to be a lot higher, so it could give a good reconnaissance of the surrounding area in case of an attack.

These pictures are just from the northern side of the fort. The southern side is completely in ruins. There is a row of steps to walk over to that side, but the area is full of wild vegetation and you cannot walk up there.

After spending some time at the fort, I explored the surrounding area. There is a small hill with a Jain temple at the peak. There are also some lovely boulders in the area photographers might be interested in.

Eventually, I walked back to the bus stop and caught a bus to Majestic Bus Station. I was back home by around 12 noon.

With the rapid growth in the population of Devanahalli, urbanization has wrapped its arms around this heritage site, threatening its cultural charm, and its very existence. Locals indulge in intense vandalization by writing names on the wall of the remaining structures. Today the heritage site silently watches as cars whiz by on NH-7. According to residents here, tourists nowadays rarely visit this historic spot.

It seems in the expansive demand for space, the local history and its significance have become minuscule and nullified by the ferocious wave of urbanization. I hope this article can encourage some to take steps to save the fort so that it retains its originality and serves as knowledge for future generations to understand the local history.

How to reach Devanahalli Fort?

From Bangalore, the fort can be easily reached in 40 minutes. It lies very close to the Kempe Gowda International Airport. I took a bus from the Majestic bus stand, It cost me Rs.24

Can I use Tripod to take photos?

Even though the heritage site is abused extensively, the caretaker will not allow you to take photos using a tripod.

What is the admission fee to enter Devanahalli Fort?

Entery to Devanahalli Fort is free

Is there any camera charge?

There is no camera charge.

How much time does it take to fully explore the Devanahalli Fort?

It hardly takes an hour to explore the remains of Devanahalli Fort. Recently one of the bastions on the northern side has collapsed. Please take adequate care when climbing the stairs.

Photo Walk to Bhoga Nandishwara Temple

It’s a breezy Friday morning and today I head out to a 1200-year-old temple in the outer reaches of Bangalore.

Bhoga Nandishwara Temple

The Bhoga Nandishwara temple was built in the 9th century and is a classical example of Dravidian Architecture. It is located in a small village called Nandigram, some 30 km from Bangalore. This village is surrounded by five hills – Nandi Hills, Brahma Giri, Vishnu Giri, Divya Giri and Skanda Giri. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is considered one of the important pilgrimage sites for Shaivites in the state.

The temple foundation is said to have been laid by Queen Ratnavali of the Banas in around 810 CE. Thereafter the temple underwent many additions and modifications especially during the reign of the Vijayanagara kings.

How to reach Bhoga Nandishwara by bus

I took a bus ride from home to Majestic Bus Stand. Thereafter I took a bus for Devanahalli. At the Devanahalli bus stand, I had to wait for some time looking for a bus to Nandi Cross. At Nandi Cross, there is an auto stand. They charge around Rs. 60 for a ride to the temple. It takes about 30 mins to reach the temple along the Nandi Hills Road. On the way I passed some lovely boulders and grape orchards.

The Courtyard

The Bhoga Nandishwara temple is unlike any other temple I have seen. It is built like a fort with an outer wall enclosing a huge courtyard, the size of a football field. Vehicles are not allowed inside the courtyard.

You can always find some monkeys loitering around the temple grounds. Do take care! they are not very friendly especially if you are carrying any eatables in your hand.

A gravel path leads up to the main entrance gate. Just before the entrance, you find a podium of sorts on your right, almost in ruins.

A few paces from here, near the main temple gate, one has to leave their shoes behind at a makeshift shoe rack. Chances are you might not find any person in charge of the shoes.

Opposite the shoe racks one can find a number of water taps to wash up before you enter the temple.

As I made my way inside the temple, on the sides you can find the stone-carved Apsaras greeting you at the gates. These girls in dancing poses are almost a signature style of most temples in Karnataka.

The temple is built in the Dravidian style of architecture, characterized by its tall gopuram (tower), large mandapas (halls), and elaborate carvings. The temple’s main sanctum sanctorum houses a large linga (phallic symbol) of Lord Shiva. I found a big crowd was gathered for a marriage ceremony in the “Kalyana Mantapa.” The main temple, the Bhoga Nandeeshwara has a majestic Shiva Linga, the sacred symbol of Lord Shiva. Photographing the linga is prohibited. Right in front of the stone idol, sits a Nandi, carved in black stone.

The temple is also known for its unique architectural features, such as the Mukha Mantapa (front hall) which has a large collection of intricate carvings of different Hindu deities. The temple also has a large Nandi (bull) statue, which is considered the vahana (vehicle) of Lord Shiva. The Nandi statue is carved out of a single piece of stone and is considered one of the largest Nandi statues in the world.

The temple was originally dedicated to Shiva and Parvati and the Nandi is a common sight at all temples dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The main hall is the most beautifully decorated with carvings on each pillar. One of the most striking features of the temple is its intricate carvings. The temple is adorned with intricate carvings of various Hindu deities and other religious symbols. The temple’s gopuram is adorned with intricate carvings of various Hindu gods and goddesses, including Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu, and Lord Brahma. The temple’s mandapas are also adorned with intricate carvings of various Hindu deities and other religious symbols.

After watching the marriage ceremony for a few minutes, I moved on to the other areas of the temple.

On the right, there is a small staircase that leads to the back of the temple complex. Once I came down and turned back, I was pleasantly surprised to see a lovely elephant carved on the side.

The temple grounds actually houses three separate temples. Even though each of the temples were built in different periods, it is impossible to make out any difference in the way there were constructed.

Girijamba Temple

The temple on the side is known as Shri Girijamba Temple. The walls of the temple contain some exquisite wall carvings depicting the legendary stories of the Hindu Gods.

There is also a Nandi idol made in black stone in front of this temple. Few Kannadiga inscriptions dating back centuries can also be seen on its walls.

The columns holding the roof are made of a single stone with exquisite and intricate carvings of Narasimha and other deities. This is a close-up shot of the Hindu God Vishnu.

You can see many such intricate carvings here that have stood centuries of weathering.

Vasantha Mantapa

As I moved on towards the back of the temple, I found myself in front of the Vasantha Mantapa. This structure was added in the 13th century by the Hoysala rulers.

You can also find some columns carved in the appearance of a Yali, mythical creatures that have the head of a lion and the body of an elephant. These Yali pillars in the Vasantha Mantapa are also a Vijayanagara era addition at Bhoga Nandeeshvara temple complex.

Shringa Theertha

After fully checking out the main temple grounds, I moved into a side compound that houses a large indoor water pond. This section of the temple is known as Sringeri Teertha. The Kalyani or Pushkarni (temple tank) was added by King Krishnadeva Raya during the heights of the Vijaynagara Empire.

Such a historical place cannot be without its mystical stories. One of them goes like this…

It is said that Nandi, the bull plunged his horns (shringa) into the ground for water. And the water of Ganga gushed from it. Hence the name Shringa Teertha. More on the lines of logic a renowned sage named Shringi used to meditate here and the name stuck.

The best time to visit the Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple is during Shivaratri and Deepawali. The temple is known for its unique architecture and intricate carvings, which are a testament to the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans who built it. The temple’s intricate carvings, unique architectural features, and the Nandi statue make it a unique and worth visiting place.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the beautiful meadows of Ooty.

An evening at Talakaveri

Talacauvery is the birthplace of the sacred river Cauvery. It is located around 44 km from the nearest town of Madikeri. Located at an altitude of over 1200 meters, the beautiful site is surrounded by misty ranges of the Brahmagiri hill.

Talacauvery or Talakaveri is considered a holy place for many Hindus. For me, the lush meadows layering the beautiful hills were enough to draw me towards one of the most mesmerizing places in Coorg.

The ride to Talakaveri is a bumpy one and I would recommend hiring a local driver as the curves might be a tad difficult to maneuver. We started around 1 pm after lunch from Kushalnagar and reached the entrance at Talakaveri at around 4 pm. It takes a little more than two hours for the drive.

On the way we stopped at Bhagamandala, which is the confluence or Kudla or Sangama of the three rivers, Tala Kaveri and its tributaries Kanika and Sujyoti Interestingly Sujyoti is largely mythical Bhagamandala comes from the name Sri Bhagandeshwara temple, which houses the deities Bhagandeshwara (Lord Shiva), Subramanya, Vishnu and Ganapathi Known as Bhagundeshwara Kshetra.

An inscription here talks about how Bhagamandala was captured by the tyrant king Tipu Sultan who tried to rename it as Faisalabad. It was later recaptured by Doddaveeraja after a fierce battle which lasted for about a week.

A massive gate welcomes you inside the man made premises. Inside you will find yourself in front of a squarish tank with steps leading into a water body. Kaveri River originates as a spring feeding the tank. This tank is called the holy Kundike of Talakaveri, which is considered to be a holy place to bathe on special days. The water is then said to flow underground to emerge as the river some distance away.

Near the water tank in a sheltered area, you can find a beautifully carved Nandi Bull statue in black stone. Many people perform pooja at the river origin point. I also saw some carrying away the sacred water in pitchers. Tala Kaveri temple consists of shrines dedicated to Goddess Kaveriamma, Lord Agastheeshwara and Lord Vinayaka. The linga is supposed to have been installed by Sage Agastya.

Myths about the birth of Talakaveri

There are multiple stories surrounding the birth of the river. The one that caught my interest is a story that begins with sage Agastya from Kashi. Agastya muni is considered the father of traditional Indian medicine. In his book of medicine, ‘Agastya Samhita‘ he is believed to have given the description of and instructions for, the creation of medicines for many types of health problems thousands of years ago! He has also authored the ‘Naadi Shastra‘, which records his findings and extrapolations on astronomy.

So according to the story, once upon a time in southern India there was a long period with no rains. The lands became parched and cracks appeared in the agricultural fields. Animals and birds could not get food or water, their suffering was beyond words. It is said that a demon named Surapaduman wanted to destroy all life. Sage Agastya felt sad and approached the Hindu god Shiva for help. Shiva gave him a small amount of Ganga river in his kamandala (small pot which he was carrying) and said wherever you spill this water the river will flow from there.

The sage set out to find a place where it could benefit humans and animals alike. On the hill of Brahmagiri, the demon Surapaduman tried to snatch the kamandala from the sage. At that moment, it is said that Ganesha appeared in the form of a crow and threw the kamandala down to earth. After touching the earth, water drifted out of kamandala and took the form of river Kaveri. For this reason Kaveri is respected as one of the 7 sacred rivers of Sapta Sindhus in Hindu scriptures.

Pilgrims flock to Talacauvery in mid-October where the river gives darshan to her devotees. The water from the spring overflows and it is called Tula Sankramana.

On the northern side of the water tank, you will find a fleet of steps going up to the top of the Brahmagiri hill. Its about 400 steps. The climb was a bit difficult for me as I was carrying a tripod and some heavy camera lenses.

The Brahmagiri Peak stands at a height of 1,276 meters above sea level. You might be searching for the stream that flows from here to form the river. Sorry to disappoint you, it is not permanently visible from this place except during the monsoon.

This place no doubt has a breathtaking view of the mountains. I captured some shots of the surrounding area. This is the Nishani Motte Peak. It is quite a favourite among hikers from Bangalore.

Towards the north you can find the Talakaveri Wildlife Sanctuary. This whole area spread over spread about 105 sq. km was declared as Wildlife Sanctuary in 1987. The hills are covered with tropical evergreen forests. A few coffee and cardamom plantations can also be found within the sanctuary.

We enjoyed the beautiful wind and the pleasant surrounding till the sun started to set.

This place no doubt has a breathtaking view of the mountains and a very well maintained temple. The river Kaveri flows through three states of the south, Karnataka, Tamilnadu, and some parts of Kerala. The river is considered a part of Ganga, thus, also called Dakshina Ganga (Southern Ganga).

India is a country of myths and miracles. It is unfortunate that one of the oldest civilizations – the Greeks have lost most of their heritage. Many foreign groups are relentlessly trying to laugh off at our ancient knowledge so that they can patent them and then sell it back to us in modern packaging. I implore my fellow Bharatvashis to understand the immense knowledge that our ancestors have left behind and not left the western cultures hijack it.

Thanks for reading! Please leave me your comments or reviews. If you liked my story please consider following me on Instagram or join me on my next hike to a lesser known Bannergatta Hill.

When is the best time to visit Talakaveri?

On Cauvery Sankramana day (the first day of Tula Masa month, according to the Hindu calendar, which normally falls in mid-October) thousands of pilgrims from neighboring flock to the river’s birthplace to witness the rise of the fountainhead when water gushes up from the spring at a predetermined moment.

Finding peace in Bylakuppe

Today we are going to explore Bylakuppe, a peaceful Tibetan refugee settlement near the town of Kushalnagar in Coorg.

Namdroling Monastery in Bylakuppe used to crop up regularly in my searches for interesting places to visit in Karnataka. Desperate to recover from the fatigue caused by urban living, I sought out this Buddhist monastery, to spend some time in peace.

Bangalore to Kushalnagar

Mani and I were on our first exploration trip in the southern part of India. The ride from Bangalore to Kushalnagar was just around 5-6 hours. We booked a rental car along with a chauffeur for the full trip. We had reserved “The Casiita”, a cottage-type resort in the quaint town of Kushalnagar. Having a car at our beck & call turned out to be very helpful, as we had to head out into the town every night because our lodgings didn’t serve any food apart from tea and biscuits.

Kushalanagar is the second largest town in Kodagu district, bordering Coorg. According to a popular myth, the name was given by Hyder Ali who was camped there when he received news of the birth of his son Tipu and named it Kushyal nagar (town of gladness).

One of the earlier mentions of Kushalnagar can be found in Tipu Sultan’s courtier-cum-biographer Mir Hussein Kirmani’s writings in the History of Tipu Sultan: Being a Continuation of The Neshani Hyduri.

Unfortunately, the town residents were not so “glad” when in 1788, Tipu marched into Kodagu and scorched entire towns and villages in Kushalapura (today’s Kushalnagar), Talakaveri and Madikeri.

Namdroling Nyingmapa Monastery

The next day, we started from our resort at around 9 a.m. The sun was bright and the skies were blue. The town center was some 10 mins drive away. Once we were in town, we could find quite a few eateries. After a light breakfast of bread & eggs, we started for Bylakuppe which is about 6 km from Kushalnagar.

It takes about 30 minutes from the town center to reach the Tibetan settlement off the Mysore-Madikeri Road. We passed quite a few large tracts of empty fields along the way. The roads were decorated on both sides with colorful paper hung on a string, dancing crazily in the wind.

As we approached the monastery, the surroundings began to change towards vast stretches of flat fields interspersed with tri-lingual banners honoring the Dalai Lama in English, Tibetan, and Kannada. A few minutes into the drive we passed through what appeared to be a marketplace with many Tibetan restaurants. The area was teeming with shaven monks in their flowing dark red robes. The only signs that we were not in Lhasa but in a village in south India were the Kannadiga-speaking street hawkers.

Once we reached the Namdroling Monastery, the driver dropped us off and parked the car just opposite the main gate in a parking area for tourists. Near the monastery is a small bazaar known as “Camp 4 Shopping Center.” You can find several shops selling Tibetan souvenirs. We decided to check it out later on our way back and headed towards the entrance gate.

Beyond the gate is a huge open space, the size of a football field. As we walked towards the main entrance of the monastery, a couple of shops inside the premises were selling souvenirs and snacks as well. During festivals, this main courtyard becomes an open stage where masked dancers swirl in colorful costumes to the sound of gongs and massive ceremonial trumpets. After crossing the courtyard, we went past a small corridor that led to the main temple. There was so much silence, I was feeling guilty to even speak.

A brief history of Namdroling Monastery

To visit such an amazing place and not know the history makes me feel empty inside. So, before coming, I had breezed through some pages on the internet about this place. In the 1960s, the Tibetans facing Chinese invasion were fleeing Tibet in droves and found refuge in a number of settlements in India. During the same period, a monk named Penor Rinpoche, who was the 11th throne holder of the Palyul lineage of Tibet led his followers to Bylakuppe, a small village in Karnataka.

In 1963, he established Namdroling Monastery in the village with an aim to help the relocated monks live a peaceful life and continue their spiritual pursuits. Initially spread over an area of 80 sq. feet, a temple was constructed of bamboo from the forest donated by the Indian Government to the Tibetan exiles. The original name given to the monastery was Thegchog Namdrol Shedrub Dargyeling.

Though Bylakuppe is still referred to as a refugee settlement, it has grown into a full-fledged town. It is the second-largest Tibetan settlement outside Tibet, the first being Dharamsala. The village consists of two Tibetan refugee settlements, namely Lugsum Samdupling which was established in 1961 and Dickyi Larsoe which was set up in 1969. In 1999, a massive monastic temple, the Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara, commonly called the golden temple, was built here. The Dalai Lama inaugurated the monastic temple which has grown into a much sought-after tourist destination.

Unfortunately, even after six decades, because of no support from the UN, the Tibetans have not been able to return back to their homeland. Now with a growing number of schools and monasteries, Bylakuppe appears more like a center for Tibetan Buddhism rather than the refugee settlement it started out as.

Today the monastery is home to nearly 5000 monks and nuns, renowned as a center for the pure upholding of the teachings of the Buddha and popularly known as Namdroling Monastery.

Zangdog Palri Temple

The first building inside the compound, right next to the entrance is the Zangdog Palri Temple. A massive photo of Guru Rinpoche is displayed on the facade of the temple.

The Zangdog Palri Temple hosts five gold-plated statues including Buddha, Padmasambhava, and Amitayu.

It’s difficult to capture them together because of the huge stupa in the middle of the room. The hall is heavily decorated with a mesmerizing mandala adorning the ceiling in the center of the room.

The sides of the ceiling taper down to form an inner rectangle also decorated with various deities, some in dancing poses and others playing traditional Hindu instruments. Usually, devotees seek blessings by lighting the incense sticks after which they sit on the carpet to imbibe the piousness and spirituality radiating at this place.

Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara / Golden Temple

After spending some quiet time in front of the Buddha, we moved on towards the Golden Temple past the calm landscaped gardens. The architecture of the temple is in Tibetan style – with vibrant colors, artistic designs, sculptures, and paintings. The golden-colored deer and the wheel symbol of Buddhism crown the shrine. Wide steps lead into the temple with two life-size lion replicas on either side.

Before you step inside the hall, you are welcomed by this red door with an intricately crafted door handle. The Tibetan doors are no less than an astounding piece of art. Brass ornamentation, exquisite colors, holy symbols and decorative paintings are Tibetan traits of door decorations.

Inside there are three enormous gold-plated statues of Buddha Shakyamuni (60 feet), Guru Padmasambhava (58 feet), and Buddha Amitayus (58 feet) set against intricate murals. The idol in the middle is of Sakyamuni Buddha or Gautama Buddha flanked by those of Guru Padmasambhava to his right and Amitayus to the left. They are made out of copper gilded with gold. The inside of the statues contain scriptures, relics of the masters, small statues, and clay stupas.

Once inside the temple, you are almost immediately drawn to the three imposing gold-plated statues. The center statue is Buddha Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism, who was born to King Shudodhana and Queen Mayadevi at Lumbini (currently in Nepal), about 2500 years ago. The altar is decorated with flowers, candles, and incense.

For those who don’t know: At the young age of 29, leaving the luxuries of the palace, Prince Siddhartha set out to search for an everlasting solution to end the cycle of birth and death that has tormented all beings from time immemorial. After many years of serious practice, he attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree in Bodh Gaya and became a Buddha.

The statue to the left of Buddha Sakyamuni is Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. As prophesied by Lord Buddha, Guru Rinpoche was born twelve years after the passing of Lord Buddha, on Lake Sindhu, in the land of Oddiyana (present-day Afghan-Pakistan border). He is considered to be the heart emanation of Buddha Amitabha.

The statue to the right of Buddha Sakyamuni is Buddha Amitayus, the Buddha of Long Life. Buddha Amitayus achieved Buddhahood countless eons ago, but his activity still remains connected with extending the lifespan of beings.

The prayer hall inside can house a few hundred monks at a time. The spacious prayer hall has seating arrangements in rows – for the monks – with prayer boxes and related artifacts. As we entered the hall, prayer was currently in session. The chanting of the mantras accompanied by the sound of drums and cymbals resonate with the place, creating a divine atmosphere.

Once you are inside the temple, please try to keep silent as it is one of the requisites inside the holy complex.

Tibetan Buddhist monks normally wear red costumes. The color red is auspicious in Tibetan culture. It is a sacred color, one of the colors of the five Buddhas and the color of the monk’s garments. It is believed to have protective qualities and is therefore often used to paint sacred buildings. The only color that supersedes red in Tibetan culture is the yellow color.

There is an ancient story that tells how yellow became the sacred color of Buddhism. When Gautam Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, left the throne to live a simple and thrifty life, he wore the white cloth that was used to wrap dead bodies. The cloth was tanned by the sun and moistened by the rain, and it gradually became wheat-colored.

According to historic documents, even a patch of yellow on the clothes of an average person caused people to salute him. It tells us that yellow was an exclusive color for monks.

Yellow was slowly replaced by red because Tibetan ethnicities increased their exchanges with Han ethnicities. To differentiate from the yellow that the royal family used, they changed into dark colors. Dark red is a mixture of red and black.

Today, Tibetan Buddhist monks normally wear red costumes. Yellow ones are seldom worn.

This is one of the rare monasteries where photography is allowed even inside the temple.

The walls of the Golden Temple are adorned with colorful paintings depicting gods and demons from Tibetan Buddhist mythology. One mandala that caught my attention was that of the Mahākāla. Mahākāla is the enraged form of the gentle and empathetic Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva. In Tibetan iconography, Mahākāla is usually black although he appears in other colors in different paintings like the one below.

Here the Mahākāla is depicted in brown-reddish color. He has six arms and three bulging eyes with flames for eyebrows. He is adorned with a crown of five skulls, representing the transmutation of the five vices (pride, anger, ignorance, jealousy and attachment) to virtues.

In Mahākāla’s arms is Ekajati, also known as “Blue Tara.” In the mandala, Ekajati’s single eye gazes into unceasing space with a single breast that “nurtures practitioners as [her] children.” She is naked, like awareness itself, except for a garment of tiger skin around her waist. She is ornamented with snakes and a garland of human heads. Her body is deep blue in color. She stands on a single leg. With that foot, she steps upon a corpse.

According to Hinduism, Mahākāla is the ultimate form of Shiva, the destroyer of all elements. There is nothing beyond him, no element, no dimensions, and not even time. That is why he is maha (greater) kaal (time). In front of him is his consort is symbolized as Kali. Both Mahākāla and Kali represent ultimate destructive power, not bounded by any rules or regulations. They have the power to dissolve even time and space into themselves and exist as Void at the dissolution of the universe.

The two deities are surrounded by many kings with similar angry faces. The wrathful appearances of these kings are attributed to their ability to ward off all evils around and protect us.

We sat there for a long time as the hymns dissolved into a calming and blissful silence. This kind of place gives me a sense of isolation from the noise of the outside world. I am not religious. I was raised as a humble human being and my parents never asserted any kind of religious beliefs on me. But at some point in time, the temples’ serenity quietly slipped into my soul.

For people who are interested in learning more about the religion, the monastery is not just a temple complex. It also offers a structured course in Buddhist teachings at The Ngagyur Nyingma Institute. Tibetan history & Buddhism, ritual dance, music, mandala construction, and chanting are some of the subjects covered. The higher course focuses on sutra & tantra teachings of Buddha with debates and discussions on commentaries by scholars.

In my childhood, I was very much an admirer of Buddhism and on certain days did go through an urge to indulge in its teachings.

Before exiting the monastery, we lumbered around the souvenir shops. Tibetans have a penchant for colorful handicrafts like handwoven sweaters, shawls, and carpets. Giveaways like prayer wheels, caps, handbags, and umbrellas can be bought at a store located on the premises. Around it, you will find various stores selling traditional Tibetan jewelry and other artifacts. I purchased a small bell to tie around the door to the house.

Apart from these two attractive temples, the Monastery also has many other smaller temples like the Vajra Kilaya Temple and the Tara Temple. At the northern periphery is a series of 16 stupas exhibiting relics and scriptures of Buddhist teachings. Apart from the religious structures the market area also has a wonderful cafe. You can try their Tea with Yak milk. Although I should alert you it tastes a bit salty.

Potala Restaurant

While coming back, we decided to try one of the local Tibetan restaurants. There were a few, and all were very busy. We finally decided on the Potala Restaurant. It is a trendy restaurant on the first floor in the center of the marketplace. All individual tables were taken so we sat down at a large shared table with other guests. It took some time coming but soon we had our dumplings and some Tingmos (steamed bread in Tibetan cuisine) delivered to us famished souls.

You can shop for Tibetan and Chinese handicrafts, and decorative and religious items. The tiny Tibetan colony here is an ideal escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. The enclosed calm and the spiritual ambiance of the place welcomes all the visitors. Along with Golden Temple/Monastery, there are many other sightseeing places near Madikeri, making it an ideal weekend getaway from Bangalore.

The best time to visit the temple is during the festive season. Various masked dances in their colorful attires can be seen performing their traditional dances in the main courtyard during the festival. During this time, the main courtyard turns into an open stage for masked dancers and performers to present live performances amid enthralling traditional music. The Tibetan New year (Losar) which usually occurs in the month of February or March is also a great time to plan your visit.

Please leave a comment if you liked my story or follow our journey as we head out to see the birthplace of the mythical river Kaveri.

What are the visiting hours of the Golden Temple?

The Golden Temple is open for visitors from 7 am till 7 pm daily.

How to conduct yourself inside the Golden Temple?

Inside the temple, please refrain from running and shouting. Please do not touch the statues and paintings. As the temple is a place of prayer and meditation, please keep silent and refrain from disturbing other visitors.

Why is the monastery called the Golden Temple?

The actual name of the temple is Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara, but local people and newspapers tend to refer to it as the Golden Temple.

When was the Golden temple constructed?

The construction of the Golden Temple began in 1995 and it was completed in 1999.

Where can I find the official information on Namdroling Monastery?

https://www.namdroling.net/

Photo walk in Lal Bagh

It was a beautiful sunny day with streaky clouds and a blue sky, kind of perfect to get my gear out. Mani was taking her JLPT examination so I dropped her off at Christchurch College and took a public bus to Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens.

Lal Bagh is one of the major attractions “within” the city of Bangalore. Spread over almost 250 acres of landscaped terrain, this beautiful garden was laid out in 1760 CE by the famous Mysore ruler, Hyder Ali. The admission tickets are cheap. You also take a guided tour on an eco-friendly buggy, or like me, just stroll around at your own pace.

Initially designed as a 40-acre garden, it boasted plants imported from places like Delhi, Multan. Lahore and Arcot. Because of the gardens many roses and other red flowers, Hyder Ali named it “Lal Bagh” or “Red Garden.” Tippu Sultan, his son, further enriched the garden by introducing seeds and plants from countries such as Afghanistan, Persia, Turkey, and Mauritius. In particular, it was during his time that the pines and oaks from South Africa were introduced into the garden. Thereafter it passed into the care of the British, who added their own touch to the beautiful garden.

The effort put in over the centuries has an immediate effect. Right after buying my admission ticket at the counter outside the gate, I found myself walking through a tunnel of sorts, created by overlaying branches of Bougainvillea. Depending on the season you will see it laden with flowers or just dried branches. Whatever be the case, you will find it enthralling going through this long tunnel.

Lal Bagh Hillock

Once you exit the Bougainvillea tunnel, you will find yourself in front of a granite hillock. Signage placed at the base of the hill declares this rock formation as a “National Geological Monument.”

The hillock was formed by a process known as Peninsular Gneiss – a geological term for a complex mixture of granite rocks extensively developed in peninsular India. The Peninsular Gneiss is among the oldest of rocks on the Earth dating back to 3 billion years. The antiquity of these rocks has attracted geologists from all over the world.

The hill is easy to climb and is also a good starting point. Take a breather at the top and plan a path to your liking as you can view the whole area from here.

This hillock is said to be one of the oldest rock formations on earth, dating back to some 3 billion years!

At the top of the hill, there is a small tower called the Kempe Gowda Tower. This tower is connected to the origins of the city of Bangalore.

Bangalore came into significance in 1537 CE, when Kempe Gowda laid the foundation of the city by building a mud fort. The fort occupants consisted of people of different vocations.

Heads up for tourists wanting to visit, they should start early since as day passes, it gets more and more difficult to breathe on the polluted road to this beautiful garden.

Kempe Gowda established four cardinal towers or mandapas defining limits to the “city.” This Kempe Gowda Tower is supposed to be the southern end of the city. I need to point out that currently, Bengaluru has very much outgrown these boundaries and the tower is now more of within the heart of the city. After Kempe Gowda, Bangalore changed many hands – from the Marathas to the Mughals, followed by Hyder Ali and then his son Tippu Sultan and finally, the British Empire. They have all left their imprints on Bangalore and in turn Lalbagh.

From the hilltop, I started walking towards the south. Lalbagh’s rock is a favorite sit-spot for many visitors. Several Bhutta (roasted corn) and peanut vendors hang around Kempe Gowda’s Mandapa. A decade ago, the Mandapa was not fenced, visitors were able to sit inside the historic monument.

Surrounded by lush grass you can find some lovely pink Tabebuia trees over here. I will try my best to give brief information about these trees as I move through the garden.

Tabebuia avellanedae

Common Name: Pink Tabebuia
Origin: Paraguay & Argentina

A Tabebuia tree is a medium to small flowering tree that is native to the West Indies and South and Central America. This South American import is colloquially known as the ‘pink trumpet‘ or ‘pink lapacho‘ trees and can get up to 49 m tall. Although the gold blooms are most common, the garden features more of the pink variety.

It was the first time I saw the pink Tabebuia in full bloom. I felt rejuvenated in a way I had not in a very long time. Looking at hundreds of those pink trumpet-shaped flowers silhouetted against the clear blue December sky felt like a balm for both eyes and the soul.

During my on-off stays in eastern Japan, I have been blessed to have experienced the blooming of the cherry blossom during spring. An event worthy enough to dedicate an entire festival. Hanami as it is referred to is the Japanese custom of mindfully observing and appreciating the flowers and their transient beauty.

What makes this bloom even more magical is that the trees lose their leaves just before embracing their bright pink flowers. In its homeland South America, the inner bark of the pink trumpet tree is regarded highly for its healing qualities by the indigenous people.

Although Lalbagh dates from 1760, it reached its apogee under two Kew-trained superintendents, John Cameron from 1873 CE to 1908 and Gustav Herman Krumbeigl from 1908 to 1932, who was successively appointed as caretakers of the garden.

I came down the hillock and decided to take a left on the well-laid walker’s path that runs along the periphery of the park.

Lalbagh Lake

Further on I could see quite a few morning joggers. Apart from health enthusiasts, Lal Bagh gets anything around 6,000 to 7,000 visitors every day including quite a few foreigners. Lalbagh Lake is man-made and was earlier just a gorge. The lake project was commissioned in 1890 to provide water to the garden’s plants. There are benches all along the peripheral of the lake, where one can sit and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the two islands on the lake.

The path goes through a wooded area with many trees. This path is referred to as Walk Trail 2.

After the nursery, there are some wounding paths lined with street lamps. This part of the trail is referred to as ‘Walk Trail 3.’

Parallel to this trail, beyond the short wall on the left, there is a narrow carriageway that runs along the perimeter of Lal Bagh. A signboard will tell you its name- Krumbeigel Road. Not too many of the thousands who traverse this road every day would be aware of the history behind its name. It’s not insignificant that Krumbeigel Road adjoins the precinct of Lal Bagh. If there was anyone — apart from Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan – who contributed more to make the garden what it is today, it perhaps was Krumbeigel, the botanist.

Krumbeigel was invited by Maharaj Nalvadi Krishna Raj Wodeyar to take over as director of the famed garden in 1908. Wodeyar could not have picked a better man for Krumbeigel saw Lal Bagh as the last word on modern botany. He wasn’t interested in beauty alone. He also explored the science of plants. It was under the leadership of German horticulturist Gustav Hermann Krumbiegel that the saplings of these trees and seeds were imported from Indonesia by the Mysore Horticultural Society. 

Even to this day, Lalbagh has the best possible collection of hibiscus and bougainvillea. It was Krumbeigel who brought the concept of a nursery to Lal Bagh. From a mere ornamental garden, Lalbagh was transformed into a scientific park, thanks to Krumbeigel. It was he who began the concept of marking and naming trees by their scientific names.

You can find many photographic opportunities in this area. I loved how this creeper displayed the tiny leaves.

I took some other macro shots. I don’t know the name of this flower. Let us just refer to it as the white hairy flower 🙂

This purple-white budding flower looked beautiful.

After going a full circle, I found myself near the Rose Garden. The wind picked up and I was able to take some very nice shots here. It took me around 2 hours to go a full circle of the lake. If you are just out for a quick walk it will take a lot less.

Here I found some Ixora shrubs. Ixora is native to Asia and its name derives from the word ‘Ishvara‘, a name variously meaning God in India. It is a branched shrub, up to 1 m tall and the leaves are mostly stalkless. Flowers are borne at branch-ends, in dense corymb-like cymes, flower-cluster-stalk very short or absent; bracts about 8 mm long.

Ixora

Common Name: Flame of the woods / Jungle geranium
Hindi Name: Rukmini
Origin: Southern India, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka

After capturing several photos of flowers I walked along the trail to reach the Hibiscus Garden. Near the Hibiscus Garden, you can find many beautiful trees including some Petrea Voluilis.

Petrea Voluilis is a vine or semi-climbing shrub with puberulent stems. As a climbing plant, it grows to a height of 12 meters, but as a shrub, it grows to 4 meters tall. It is found especially on the banks of rivers and streams, from northern Mexico to Bolivia, Brazil, and Paraguay in the Antilles and Venezuela. Depending on the climate, it can have up to two blooms in the year.

Petrea Voluilis

Common Name: Purple wreath / Queen’s wreath
Hindi Name: Nilmani Lata
Origin: Tropical America

A few meters ahead, you can find one of the oldest trees on the grounds. This is a kapok tree (Ceiba pentandra) also known as White Silk Cotton Tree. The girth of the tree, measured at a height of 1.30 m, is around 23 m. Its height is around 26 m (Jun 2, 2012, Measurement on a photo, Cesare). This tree was planted around the year 1800, which makes it at least around 200 years old.

Ceiba pentandra

Common Name: Kapok, Ceiba, White Silk-Cotton Tree
Hindi Name: Safed semal
Origin: Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean

There are about 15 silk cotton trees spread around the garden. Two of them are near the West gate, half a dozen near Siddapur gate, and the remaining around the Glasshouse. White silk-cotton sticks obtained from fruits will be used for making pillows and beds. The wood is very light, hence used for making match sticks and packing cases. Thick roots form hollow spaces large enough for an adult human to hide.

Near the Topiary garden, you will find this Band stand.

Band Stand

The band stand is a circular wooden structure with an artistically elevated roof supported by wooden pillars, which are fixed to a granite platform. Located almost in the center of the garden; it is surrounded by lush green lawns encircled by parapet walls. The garden around the band stand is in the form of a terrace. A panoramic view of the Glass House towards the East and the Topiary garden towards the West can be seen from the band stand.

Near the rest stop, there are also ample opportunities to capture some beautiful flowers.

The Jarul has erect clusters of spectacular flowers that don different shades – mauve, pink, or lilac. The tree is small to medium-sized when it grows in the city, so it is common to see it planted in parks and pathways. However, when it grows away from the city near water bodies, the tree can grow to a great size.

Lagerstromia speciosa

Common Name: Pride of India / Queen Crepe Myrtle
Hindi Name: Jarul
Origin: Tropical Southern Asia

Petals of the flowers are crinkly, like crape and the fruits are oval, woody capsules that stay on the tree for a very long time. The tree is also known by the name Pride of India and is locally called ‘Hole Dasavala‘. There are a couple of beautiful specimens in Lalbagh, on the way from the band stand to the glasshouse.

In earlier times, the Band stand used to be the venue for flower shows.

White-red flowers.

Tiny pink flowers.

From here it is a small walk to the fountain.

Although Hyder Ali initiated the gardens his son, Tipu Sultan, further developed and completed it. The garden has quite a few trees and plants imported from several countries. Along the path are rows of benches with Red Cedar trees on either side providing a wonderful shade on both sides.

Lalbagh Glasshouse

Along the way, one can see the Glass House, built during the British Raj and is said to be modeled on London’s Crystal Palace. It was desolate, but it serves as a venue for Horticultural Shows twice a year on Independence Day (15th Aug) and Republic Day (26th Jan).

Of the many artistic structures in Lalbagh, the Glass House is the most famous one. It is a magnificent structure modeled on the design of the Crystal Palace of England. John Cameron, the then Superintendent of Lalbagh Gardens conceived the idea. This impressive iron and glass glasshouse was designed, manufactured, and shipped to India by Walter Macfarlane and Company of Glasgow, Scotland. It was erected in 1890 partly to accommodate the spectacular flower show that had become a key feature of the garden’s annual calendar. The annual age-old tradition is continued to this day with the flower show organized every year on Republic Day and Independence Day.

In the beginning, this structure was called the “Albert Victor Conservatory” and intended for acclimatizing exotic plant specimens. Now it is popularly known as the Glass House and is being used for conducting the popular biannual Flower shows. It was further extended by the Mysore Iron & Steel Company in 1935.

Walking back towards the entrance you can find some wood sculptures created using the dead trees in the garden. Every year in Bangalore strong winds during October leads to the felling of many large trees.

In 2019 many very old trees got uprooted, some of them over 200 years old. The usual practice used to be that the horticulture department that manages Lalbagh would auction or sell off the deadwood to timber merchants and wood dealers to be chopped up. This time, owing to the antiquity of some of the trees, the department decided to get artists to turn them into sculptures that would be housed in the gardens for public display.

Here lies a beautiful carving of the Buddha. In my opinion, it is a wonderful initiative of making the dead trees come to life again.

I am not posting all the carvings so you find a motivation to visit the garden yourself to see these beautiful works of art in person.

Near the statues, you can also find some more flowers bunched together in different areas of the garden.

White flowers

Right at the exit, I saw a sweet dog trying to get some shut-eye on the bench.

The botanical garden is enriched with numerous native and the exotic flora of wide-ranging diversity, by way of introduction, acclimatization, and multiplication from various parts of the world since its inception in 1760. Today, 2150 species of plants belonging to 673 genera and 140 families can be seen in Lalbagh. The collection of such diverse types of plant wealth has made Lalbagh, a veritable treasure house of plants.

The Lalbagh Botanical garden is a lovely place to relax, unwind & be amidst nature. The Park is a big one but it’s definitely worth it. I went solo and enjoyed every bit of it. Even on a regular weekday, you can find lots of families entertaining themselves. The park contains some eateries. Outside the Lalbagh gate, stalls are selling fresh fruit juice in the morning. Battery-operated buggies are available for the elderly. The park is well maintained and truly worth a visit.

*Updated: July 2021

Admission Timings:

Morning 9 AM to Evening 6 PM

Admission Price

Admission fee is Rs. 30 for adults and Rs. 10 for children.

Is there a camera charge at Lalbagh Botanical Gardens

Yes, since August 2014, there is a Camera charge of Rs.50 per camera. Mobile phones are not subject to this charge.

Jungle Safari in Bannerghatta National Park

My first jungle safari! It had its moments when I was elated like when I saw a Royal Bengal Tiger not more than a foot away from me and disgusted when I saw elephants tied to chains in what was supposed to be a wildlife safari.

A real jungle just beside a concrete jungle

Bannerghatta National Park or BNP is just a 30-minute drive from where I stay. I don’t think I have ever seen any jungle so close to the city. So Mani, and I invited a couple of our friends and dropped down to the park. In all, Bannerghatta National Park or BNP is 25,000 acres of carefully preserved jungle. It is situated on the northern terminal point of Mysuru Elephant Reserve connecting forest reserves of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The Park plays an important role in the conservation of rich flora and fauna diversity.

Now when I talk about the park, I mean the Bannerghatta Biological Park, which is a very small part of Bannerghatta National Park. The park started off as a small Zoo/picnic corner in 1974 within Bannerghatta National Park mainly for recreation purposes. The Bannerghatta Biological Park, popularly known as BBP emerged out as an independent establishment only during the year 2002. Presently, the interesting areas for visitors are:

  1. Bannerghatta Zoo
  2. Bannerghatta Safari
  3. Bannerghatta Butterfly Park

The entrance to the park has some lovely trees. This Jaracanda was in full bloom at the time I was there. There are other several flowering trees surrounding the park.

Brief history of Bannerghatta Biological Park

One of the names that deserve a big credit for the development of the Bannerghatta Biological Park is to Y.M.L Sharma who was the then Chief Conservator of Forests and Head of the Forest Department in 1974. It was he and his team who are responsible for identifying the need for a place where Bengalureans could enjoy the solitude of the wilderness. He was instrumental in visualizing and creating the biological park where people could connect with nature during weekends.

In 2002 when Bannerghatta Biological Park emerged out as an independent establishment from BNP, it was brought under the administrative control of the Zoo Authority of Karnataka. Over time a Zoo, a Butterfly Park, and several Safari units were started within the area of Bannerghatta Biological Park. Today the BBP is spread over a huge 730 Hectares.

Now let’s talk about the Safari. There are two types of Safari available – the Bus safari and the Jeep safari. There was four of us, so we went for the Jeep. The Jeep safari cost us around Rs. 2000. It takes 4 people at a time. If you have an extra person, they will charge another Rs. 500, and the person can sit in the last row of the jeep. The bus ride although inexpensive just doesn’t have the thrill of the adventure. Also, it is impossible to see the animals on the other side of where you are seated.

Once we got the Safari tickets, we were asked to wait for an hour or so until the jeeps on tour could return. We spent that time at the Zoo.

The Safari tickets also allow you to enter the Zoo at no extra cost.

Zoo Walkaround

The Zoo enclosure is huge and contains some unique animals. The present extent of Zoo area would be around 12 Hectares. The area is saddled between Champakadhama hill and Mirza hill. Like I mentioned before, it started in a very modest way in the form of a “Picnic corner” in order to provide picnic facilities to the urban population leaving in the vicinity of Bengaluru. With changing times the priority shifted to the welfare of wild animals.

Bannerghatta National Park and Zoo is a plastic-free zone. Do not carry beverages in plastic bags. The caretakers at the entrance will make you throw away all plastic carry bags/bottles or transfer your food into paper bags provided by them.

A variety of mammals, reptiles, and birds of both exotic and Indian origin comprising 2000 animals belonging to 94 species are displayed in captivity at the Zoo. I am not a fan of the concept of a Zoo, but it does have its place in the current ecosystem where not everyone can afford the luxury of camping in the woods to witness the wild animals surrounded by breathtaking nature. I would also like to point out that the Zoo here is different from the other Zoos as the animals get proper attention and adequate space in their enclosures.

With the Zoo being sandwiched between two hills, it always maintains a cozy climate throughout the year. Before we begin your photo journey, let me add a map for you so it is easier to follow. At present, there are about 58 enclosures in the Zoo area. I am going to take you on a picture tour as depicted by the arrows on the map below. Naturally when you visit you can move around in whichever way you wish to. It’s not a set path.

I was only able to capture some of the residents as the rest were either taking a nap or hiding away in some corner of their enclosures.

Ostrich

Let’s begin with the Ostrich. It is a species of flightless bird native to certain large areas of Africa. It is the largest and heaviest living bird. As its species name, camelus, suggests, it was once known as the “camel bird” because of its long neck, prominent eyes, and sweeping eyelashes, as well as its jolting walk.

Also, like camels, the ostrich can tolerate high temperatures and go without water for long periods of time. The Zoo authorities have provided a big enclosure for the bird as it loves to run. Shallow areas filled with mud have been added to the enclosure to aid mud bath during summer and to keep their feathers clean.

Emu

The Emu is the second-largest living bird by height, after the ostrich. They are members of the Ratite family, which also includes ostriches, cassowaries, and rheas. It is endemic to Australia where it is the largest native bird. A water puddle is added to the enclosure for the Emu’s so they can indulge in a water bath to cool their body during the hotter days in Bangalore.

Emus have tiny, useless wings, but their legs are long and powerful. They can travel long distances at a fast trot and can sprint at 48 kilometers per hour for quite a distance.

They have a pouch in their throat that is part of their windpipe and is used for communication. When the pouch is inflated, the Emu can make deep booming and grunting sounds.

Striped Hyena

Native to northern Africa, the Middle East, and India, striped hyenas eke out a life in semideserts, rocky scrublands, and savannas. It belongs to a family of Hyaenidae and lives in small groups of one female and several males.

Their muzzle, ears, and throat are entirely black, but their coat may be golden yellow, brown, or gray with black stripes on the body and legs. The striped Hyenas have amazing hearing. They can hear sounds that human ears cannot, and hear sounds from other predators that may lead them to a kill that is miles away.

Jackal

Jackals are medium-sized omnivorous mammals of the subtribe Canina, which also includes wolves and the domestic dog, among other species.

Their long legs and curved canine teeth are adapted for hunting small mammals, birds, and reptiles, and their large feet and fused leg bones give them a physique well-suited for long-distance running, capable of maintaining speeds of 16 km/h for extended periods of time.

Deer Park

A few paces away from the Jackal’s enclosure you can find a large park full of various types of deer. The Blackbuck, Sangai Deer, Indian Hog Deer, and the Barking Deer are all banded together in this enclosure separated by nets.

Black Buck

The blackbuck, also known as the Indian antelope, is an antelope native to India and Nepal. It inhabits grassy plains and lightly forested areas with perennial water sources.

Male and female blackbucks have distinctly different appearances. Male blackbucks have long, spiral horns, and darker coats. Their faces and chests are black, with white rings around their eyes. The rest of their bodies are brown, and their undersides are white. Females have no horns and are a lighter caramel-colored brown.

Sangai Deer

The Sangai is an endemic and endangered subspecies of Eld’s deer found only in Manipur, India. It is also the state animal of Manipur. The brow-antlered deer or the dancing deer is found in its natural habitat only at Keibul Lamjao National Park. The Sangai was believed to be almost extinct by 1950. Even though their numbers have grown, it is still listed as “Endangered” in the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List of Threatened Species and Schedule I of the Indian Wild Life (Protection) Act, 1972.

Culturally, the Sangai finds itself embedded deep into the legends and folklore of the Manipuris. It is believed that the name Sangai (sa “animal” and ngai “in awaiting”) was coined from its peculiar posture and behavior while running. By nature, the deer, particularly the males, even when running for its life stops occasionally and looks back as if it is waiting for someone and hence the name.

Indian Hog Deer

The Indian hog deer is a small deer native to the Indo-Gangetic Plain in Pakistan, northern India, Nepal, Bangladesh, and Southeast Asia. Its name derives from the hog-like manner in which it runs through forests with its head hung low.

The distinctive features of typical hog deer antlers are the acute angle between the brow tine and main beam, and the fact that the inner tops tend to be short and angle back from the main beam and across towards the opposite antler.

Barking Deer

The Indian muntjac also called the southern red muntjac and “barking deer” is a deer species native to South and Southeast Asia. The Indian muntjac has a short but very soft, thick, dense coat that is denser in cooler regions. Its face is darker and the limbs are dark to reddish-brown and the coat color seasonally varies from darker brown to yellowish and grayish-brown.

Its ears have much less hair, but otherwise are the same color as the rest of the head. Male muntjacs have short antlers, about 4 in long, that protrude from long body hair-covered pedicels above the eyes. Females have tufts of fur and small bony knobs instead of antlers.

Hippopotamus

The Hippopotamus, also called the hippo, is a large, mostly herbivorous, semiaquatic mammal native to sub-Saharan Africa. Hippopotamuses love water, which is why the Greeks named them the “river horse.” Hippos spend up to 16 hours a day submerged in rivers and lakes to keep their massive bodies cool under the hot African sun. Hippos are graceful in the water, good swimmers, and can hold their breath underwater for up to five minutes.

Hippos are among the largest living land mammals, being only smaller than elephants and some rhinoceroses. Unlike most other semiaquatic animals, hippos have very little hair. A hippo’s lifespan is typically 40–50 years. The enclosure of the Hippopotamus seemed a bit small and needed more water.

Indian Elephant

What do I write about Elephants? Elephants are very much a part of our life through temples or during parades. They are the largest existing terrestrial animals. Asian elephants have been listed as endangered for some time now. In the past, they were used in war. Even Alexander was forced to withdraw from his campaign of conquering the world after facing ferocious elephants in India.

Elephants are highly recognizable and have been featured in many folklores in Indian mythologies over time. Because of their large size, elephants have a huge impact on their environments and are considered keystone species. Their habit of uprooting trees and undergrowth can transform savannah into grasslands. When they dig for water during drought, they create waterholes that are used by other animals.

Elephants typically coexist peacefully with other herbivores. Elephants exhibit mirror self-recognition, an indication of self-awareness and cognition that has also been demonstrated in some apes and dolphins. Elephants are popularly thought of as having an excellent memory. They possibly have cognitive maps to allow them to remember large-scale spaces over long periods of time. Today, they are often controversially put on display in Zoos.

Indian Grey Wolf

The Indian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf that can be found from Southwest Asia to the Indian Subcontinent. The Indian grey wolf is endangered and its population is estimated at 2,000-3,000, mainly in Rajasthan, Maharashtra, and Karnataka. They are similar in structure to the Eurasian wolf, but smaller in built with shorter fur.

Indian wolves are nocturnal and hunt from dusk to dawn and they are said to be exceptional in speed and endurance. The conversion of forests to agricultural fields has shrunk its hunting ground, reducing wild prey. As a result, the Indian wolves sometimes also feed on livestock when natural prey becomes scarce and also have a history of preying on children living in villages near these jungles.

Nilgai

The Nilgai is the largest Asian antelope and is ubiquitous across the northern Indian subcontinent. A sturdy thin-legged antelope, the nilgai is characterized by a sloping back, a deep neck with a white patch on the throat, a short crest of hair along the neck terminating in a tuft. Males have 8 -10 inch long horns. The male coat is gray-blue and the female coat is yellow-brown in color.

The Nilgai has been associated with Indian culture since the Vedic period (1500–500 BCE). Nilgai is widely found in the jungles of Karnataka, Rajasthan, West Bengal, Assam, and Haryana.

Leopard

Leopards are graceful and powerful big cats closely related to lions, tigers, and jaguars. It occurs in a wide range in sub-Saharan Africa, in some parts of Western and Central Asia, Southern Russia, and in the Southeast parts of the Indian subcontinent. Compared to other wild cats, the leopard has relatively short legs and a long body with a large skull. Its fur is marked with rosettes. They can run at speeds of up to 58 km/h.

The leopard is so strong and comfortable in trees that it often hauls its kills into the branches. Leopards can also hunt from trees, where their spotted coats allow them to blend with the leaves until they spring with a deadly pounce. Leopards are strong swimmers and very much at home in the water.

Mugger Crocodile

The Mugger Crocodile is a medium-sized broad-snouted crocodile, also known as mugger and marsh crocodile. It is native to freshwater habitats from southern Iran to the Indian subcontinent, where it inhabits marshes, lakes, rivers, and artificial ponds. The mugger crocodile evolved at least 4.19 million years ago and has been a symbol for the fructifying and destructive powers of the rivers since the Vedic period.

Ghariyal

Gharials and mugger crocodiles are found living in overlapping habitats. Gharial derives its name from ghara, a Hindi word for pot because of a bulbous knob present at the end of their snout. The attenuated snout and rows of uniform sharp teeth supported by a relatively long, well-muscled neck make it a most efficient fish catcher.

Gharials being of lighter colouration need more heat to warm their bodies

Gharials have specific habitat requirements; so they do not leave perennial river habitats. They prefer deep fast flowing rivers, however, adult gharials have also been observed in still water branches (jheel) of rivers and in comparatively velocity-free aquatic environments of deep holes (kunds) at river bends and confluences.

Scarlet Macaw

The scarlet macaw is a large red, yellow, and blue Central and South American parrot. Scarlet macaws are iconic animals in the tropical forests of Mexico, Central America, and South America. Soaring through the canopy, these large parrots fill the forests with their loud vocalizations, crack nuts and unripened fruits with their powerful beaks, and spend hours preening the feathers of their lifelong mates. At the Zoo, whole walnuts, almonds and sugarcane sticks are given to macaws and other parrots occasionally, to allow these birds to break open the hard shell using their strong beak.

Common Crow

I took this photo in jest as it has been quite a few months that I have seen crows around in Bangalore. Pigeons are more common in the area where I stay.

Rat Snake

Rat snakes are an intrinsic part of almost all landscapes in India. They are large non-venomous snakes between one and two meters long. They have shiny scales on their back and a light colored belly. They pose no threat to humans. The bite of the Indian rat snake is harmless to humans. The rat snake is often mistaken for a cobra, but the black lines between the scales on its lip are a sure-fire way of distinguishing it from its venomous cousin.

When threatened, the rat snake will raise its forebody a little off the ground, expand its neck downward and growl. Water sprinkler for reptiles and mammals to keep their body and environment cool during hot days.

Indian Roof Turtle

Green Iguana

Iguana is a genus of herbivorous lizards that are native to tropical areas of Mexico, Central America, South America, and the Caribbean. These lizards possess a dewlap and a row of elongated scales running from the midline of their necks down to their tails. Iguanas have keen vision and can see shapes, shadows, colors, and movement at long distances. Their visual acuity enables them to navigate through crowded forests and locate food. Iguanas are often hard to spot, as they tend to blend into their surroundings, and their coloration enables them to hide from larger predators.

Green iguanas are large, typically green lizards, though they can sometimes be brown or almost black in color. Green iguanas have a row of spikes down the center of the neck, back, and upper portion of the tail, and have dark black rings on the tail. Mature male iguanas develop heavy jowls and a throat fan (or dewlap) that are much larger than those of female iguanas.

Aviary

Grey Pelican

The grey pelican, is a member of the pelican family. It breeds in southern Asia from southern Iran across India east to Indonesia. It is a bird of large inland and coastal waters, especially large lakes. These birds have been known to nest in large colonies close to human habitations. The species is found to breed only in peninsular India. They are very silent although at their nests they can make hisses, grunts or snap their bills.

Like most other pelicans, it catches fish in its huge bill pouch while swimming at the surface. This species was once used by fishermen in parts of eastern Bengal as decoys for certain fish. These fishermen believed that an oily secretion from the bird attracted certain fish.

White Peocock

The white peacock is a variation of the blue peacock native to the Indian subcontinent. White peafowl has a genetic mutation called leucism. This causes the inability of pigment to be deposited into their feathers which results in a white appearance. White peacocks are born yellow and turn white as they mature.

Indian Peacock

The Indian peacock has iridescent blue and green plumage, mostly metallic blue and green, but the green peacock has green and bronze body feathers. In both species, females are a little smaller than males in terms of weight and wingspan. The two Asiatic species are the blue or Indian peafowl originally of the Indian subcontinent and the green peafowl of Southeast Asia. When a peacock spreads his tail feathers, he is trying to attract a female’s attention or defend himself.

Once the Jeep became available, the designated driver called me and we left for the Safari.

Jeep Safari

The Safari unit is an expedition to observe the free-range captive wildlife in immersive, naturalistic exhibits in the midst of the Natural forests of Bannerghatta and Ragihalli Reserve Forest. The safari is jointly managed and monitored by Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation (KSTDC) and BBBP. There are two safari buses kept for operation by the park authorities for high-end tourists. These two luxurious AC buses have better facilities. There will be an exclusive naturalist in these buses to conduct the tour and guide the visitors. The safari buses have a seating capacity of 30 per bus. In addition to the Buses and Jeeps, Xylo and Innova are also available to visitors, for safari rides in smaller groups.

The Safari ride takes about an hour. If you need to relieve yourself, do it before the safari. You cannot find any restrooms on the safari.

The area set aside for the Bannerghatta Biological Park campus is at one corner of the Bannerghatta National Park. It is a highly undulating terrain interspersed with barren rocky outcrops and valleys leading to the Suvarnamukhi River. There are many small, medium, and large water bodies that exist within and around the Biological Park. Further some of the natural and seasonal streams flowing down to the valleys within and around the Bannerghatta Biological Park.

The visitors are allowed inside the safari in the secured safari vehicles and have the thrill of wilderness by seeing them in the midst of the forest through keen and close observation. The route to the safari passes through the picturesque hillock Mettubunde giving an opportunity to the visitors to have the inspiration and breathe holding a panoramic view of the landscape of the broken chain of hillocks and valleys with lush green forests.

Herbivore Safari

This section was developed during the 1970s in the Bannerghatta Reserve Forest. It was opened to public viewing much later in 2002. The entire area comprising 121.41 Ha has been barricaded with a stone wall along with the additional support of a solar power fence and Elephant proof trench. The vegetation in the safari is more favorable to the herbivore animals round the year as a large number of fodder species like bamboo and Anogeissus intermitted with a vast extent of foreshore area of the water bodies.

The edible grass species such as sacharam, cymbogogon and heteropogon are commonly seen in the grass land and constitute the main fodder. Few patches of shorea talura also found within the safari and serving as the standing shade for the animals. There are 5 water bodies found in the safari area namely, Deepankere, Chennamanakere, Gowdankunte and Seegadikunte, Gowdanakere. These water bodies are perennial and serve as the source of water for the inmate animals during all the seasons.

The animals found in the safari are Gaur, Sambar, Chital, Barking Deer, Black Buck, Hog Deer and Nilgai. The other animals naturally found in the safari are wild boar, porcupine, pangolin etc.

The driver drove very rashly, and all we could get out of him was so we could “feel the adventure.” We passed a beautiful lake with a herd of Elephants on the banks. I was miffed seeing their feet tied with chains. It must be so they stay put for the safari visitors. Some things I just don’t get. most probably commercialization ideas being so close to the city. 

Bear Safari

The Bear Safari was first established in 2002 in the Ragihalli Reserve Forest. The Safari area is provided with a peripheral open dry moat covering about 18.00 Ha. The outer wall of the moat is embedded with stone slabs all around in order to prevent the sloth bear escape or to avoid trespass of any other free-ranging wildlife into the Safari. There are around 100 animal holding rooms with a facility of a kitchen. The forest area is planted with varieties of fruit-yielding trees to create a natural habitat for the bears.

The facility created in the Bear Safari also maintains a number of bears rescued from Kalandars from all over India. As we drove on, we noticed some Sloth Bears sitting at the edge of the road. We stopped there for a few minutes. We also happened to see a group of Spotted Deers along the way.

Lion Safari

The lion safari was first established in 1979. It is an open enclosure created in an area of 5.00 Hectares of Ragihalli Reserve Forest in 1979. All around the 5.00 Hectares of forest area, a tall chain link mesh with a height of around 15 feet has been erected. Further, a big moat all around the chain link mesh fence has been created to avoid the tress pass of any wild animals living in the area. The animal house is provided with 11 holding rooms and all 11 holding rooms are provided with a retrieval area for the daytime rest. The identified groups of animals are only allowed into safari on a rotational basis regularly for the benefit of visiting tourists.

Some 10 minutes into the ride, we entered the Tiger enclosure. We passed a sleeping White Tiger, who just refused to pose for us. Further on we were a bit luckier to get some shots of the beautiful Royal Bengal Tiger. They are just so majestic. One of them even grazed our Jeep.

The driver told us that a few years ago there was an incident when a Tiger had snatched a girl away from the bus ride. We kept our windows closed for the rest of the tour 😐

Tiger Safari

The lion safari was first established in 1987 in the Ragihalli Reserve Forest. It is divided into 3 units, namely:

  • IG Tiger Safari – 6.00 Hectares
  • Appaiah Tiger Safari – 8. 00 Hectares
  • White Tiger Safari – 1.00 Hectares

The peripheral boundary has been created for all the 3 units by digging open moat and erecting chain link mesh fence and covers an area of about 15.00 Hectares. The Tiger Safari has the facility of 11 holding rooms.

The Appaiah Tiger Safari has the facilities of 2 animal housing complexes.

Both animal houses together have 10 animal holding rooms.

The White tiger safari has the facilities of 2 animal housing complexes. There are in total 8 animal holding rooms. All the holding houses are provided with basic facilities of water and sanitation. The identified groups of animals are only allowed into safari on a rotational basis regularly for the benefit of visiting tourists.

The Safari was over in like 40 mins and we headed back.

Other attractions at Park

Butterfly Park is one of the unique attractions in Bannerghatta National Park that you generally don’t find with a Zoo. A large building just outside the Zoo has many species of butterflies. In fact, many butterflies found in the Zoo and the surrounding forest areas are caught and taken to Butterfly Park. Don’t miss visiting this place.

You can also go boating in Kavalkere Lake inside the Zoo premises.

There is an old Nature Camp that was developed by the Karnataka Jungle Lodges and Resorts into a resort in 2002. The Jungle Lodges and Resorts Ltd. also runs a restaurant called the “Hill View Restaurant” within the Zoo premises.

I had a wonderful day at the park. I got some lovely photos of the residents at the Zoo. If you are a shutterbug, let me tell you that the safari isn’t as great if you looking to capture great photos. On the Safari, many of the animals were on a nap. I had better luck taking pictures at the Zoo.

However, if you are one who loves animals in their natural habitat, you must head towards Bannerghatta Biological Park. It is very rare to have a natural forest in the neighborhood. Bengaluru is particularly fortunate in having the “Bannerghatta National Park”, just a few kilometers from the heart of the city. The landscape beauty of the surrounding forest, the favorable climate, and the transport facilities available assist the visitors to reach the place as and when they wish. On average, around 1.50 million people visit this place annually.

  • Come early. The later you reach, more the crowd gathers.
  • Choose a weekday if you can. Week-ends and holidays are really busy and crowded at the park.
  • Go for the Jeep ride. Bus ride is no fun. You can hardly see the lovely animals.
  • If you are interested in Butterflies, try to come during August-September.
  • There is a Volvo Bus Service from Majestic Bus Station which is pretty regular #365.
  • The whole experience will not take more than 3-4 hours.

Faqs (Updated: Sept 2021)

What are the Zoo timings?

Bannerghatta Zoo Timings: 9:30 AM – 5:00 p.m
Weekly Closure: Tuesday

What time does the Bus and Jeep Safari operate?

Bannerghatta Safari Timings: 10:00 AM – 4:30 PM

How much does the Safari bus ride cost?

Non AC Bus Safari (Zoo+Safari)
Rs 300/- Monday to Friday
Rs 350/- Saturday, Sunday & Govt Holidays

AC Bus Safari (Zoo+Safari+ButterflyPark+Camera)
Rs 600/- Monday to Friday
Rs 650/- Saturday, Sunday & Govt Holidays

What is the cost of the Jeep Safari?

Jeep Safari (Zoo+Safari+ButterflyPark+Camera)
6 Seater Non AC Jeep: Rs 3500/
6 Seater AC Jeep: Rs 4000/-
6 Seater AC Xylo: Rs 4500/-
8 seater non AC Jeep: Rs 4500/-
7 seater Innova Car: Rs 5500/-

What is the admission charge for the Zoo

Adults: Rs 100/-
Children: Rs 50/

Is there a separate charge for the camera?

Still Camera charge: Rs 50 /-
Video Camera charge: Rs 250 /-

How much does a battery-operated vehicle cost?

Adults: Rs 100/-
Children: Rs 50/-