Kokura city is the gateway to the Island of Kyushu from the Japanese mainland. We go for an evening stroll along the dazzling Kokura Waterfront up to the 400 year old flat land Kokura Castle built towards the beginning of the Edo Period.
Today we went to explore the Yoshinogari ruins, that spreads throughout the Kanzaki area of Saga Prefecture. It is one of the largest historical site in Japan, reminiscent of Yamatai Kingdom from the Yayoi Era between 300 BC to 300 AD. The moated village marks the first shift from a nomadic lifestyle to permanent settlements.
On the way to Yoshinogari
A canal on the way to Yoshinogari Historical Park
Entrance
Yoshinogari Historical Park Entrance
masot
Yoshinogari Historical Park Mascot
Bridge to village
Floating Bridge of Heaven
Torii at the entrance of the village
Torii in front of a wooden bridge over the moat at Yoshinogari Historical Park Grounds
First views of the village
Minami no Mura (South Village)
Viki at Yoshinigari
Dwelling huts in the Minami no Mura (South Village)
Dwelling huts at Minami no mura
Dwelling huts in the Minami no Mura (South Village)
A wild visitor
A pheasant at the Yoshinogari iseki
Kura to ichi
Kura to Ichi (Storehouses and Market)
Near Minami naikaku
Beautiful flowers outside the Minami Naikaku (South Inner Enclosure)
Watchtower at Minami naikaku
Watch Tower
Minami naikaku
Minami Naikaku (South Inner Enclosure)
Chief house at Minami naikaku
Rulers residence at Minami Naikaku (South Inner Enclosure)
Interiors of a hut at Minami naikaku
Dewlling hut interior at Minami Naikaku (South Inner Enclosure)
Naka no mura
Naka no Mura (Middle Village)
Kita Naikaku
High-floored residences at the Kita Naikaku (North Inner Enclosure)
Entrance of Kita Naikaku
Wooden enclosure guarded by a moat at the Kita Naikaku (North Inner Enclosure)
Ceremonial hall
Ceremonial Hall at the Kita Naikaku (North Inner Enclosure)
Watchtower at Kita Naikaku
Watch tower at the Kita Naikaku (North Inner Enclosure)
Prayer hall at Kita Funkyubo
Prayer Hall in front of Kita Funkyubo (Northern Burial Ground)
Burial mound at Kita Funkyubo
Kita Funkyubo (Northern Burial Ground)
Inside the burial mound
Burial pits at Kita Funkyubo (Northern Burial Ground)
Burial jar
A representation of a burial jar at Kita Funkyubo (Northern Burial Ground)
Burial pits
Burial pits at Kita Funkyubo (Northern Burial Ground)
Leaving Yoshinogari
Beautiful flowers at Kita Naikaku (North Inner Enclosure)
Catching the train to Kagoshima via Kumamoto.
Waiting to catch the train to Kumamoto at the Chikugo Funagoya Station
I had a great time in Hasedera the day before. The temple grounds were lovely but what struck me most was the abundant hydrangeas blooming all over the garden. I had been to Nara Park several times, but each time I always used to miss visiting the Manyou Botanical Garden, located near Kasuga-Taisha shrine bordering the Kasugayama Primeval forest. The garden contains a Wisteria Garden, Camellia Garden, Iris Garden, Ajisai Garden and a Five Grain Garden. With the Ajisai blooming all over Nara, I decided it was the perfect time to check out this garden.
The garden can be easily accessed by entering Nara Park and walking on your right towards Kasuga Taisha shrine.
The Manyou Botanical Garden (萬葉植物園) opened in 1932 and contains over 300 species of plants and trees mentioned in the Man’yōshū, the oldest existing collection of Japanese poetry, compiled sometime after 759 AD during the Nara period. The foundation for this garden was laid by a botanist by the name of Honda Seiroku. He visualized the creation of this recreational botanical garden by utilizing the land set aside for the Nara Imperial Villa in Nara Park towards the end of the Meiji period. However it wasn’t until 1927, when a proposal was forwarded to create the Manyo Garden. Sasaki Nobutsuna, a scholar of Japanese literature, formed an organization to champion the idea of establishing the Manyo Gardens where the exact varieties mentioned in the poems of the Manyoshu would be grown.
I have compiled a gallery of all the flowers and other interesting experiences of the garden. Some of the flowers were easy to identify, others are still a mystery to me. If you recognize any, please add it in the comments.
Honestly, I would not suggest visiting the gardens in Summer if you are mostly a flower person. If you only want to experience Ajesai, there are loads to take pictures of. If you are tired of all the walking one has to do visiting Kasuga Taisha, this is a nice place to come and rest. There is a small pond full of Koi fishes. The colorful fishes stalked me as I stood near the edge of the pond expecting some food from me. After a couple of hours of lazy wandering, I made my way back out of the garden.
Thank you for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the shots.
On a lovely sunny day, Mani & I left for Hase-dera Temple in Nara. It had been raining incessantly for the whole week and we were lucky to have caught a break over the weekend.
Hase-dera is not very far away from Nara but we had to change a couple of trains to reach the Hasedera Station. From Kintetsu Nara Station we took the train to Yamato-Saidaiji Station, then from there, another to Yamatoyagi. At Yamatoyagi we changed to a semi-express train for Hasedera.
Catching the train from Kintetsu Nara Station
On the train Mani explained to me how the original Hasedera was founded in 686 A.D. when a Buddhist priest named Domyo enshrined a bronze plaque carved with a three-storied pagoda and two sitting Buddhas. The bronze plaque, known as Douban Hokke Sessou Zu, is today listed as a National Treasure of Japan. Later, in the year 727, the temple was expanded by order of Emperor Shōmu and a statue of the eleven-faced Kannon was placed near the original temple that enshrined the bronze plaque. The temple has burned down and rebuilt several times over the years.
It didn’t take us long to reach Hase-dera Station. It’s a small building surrounded by lush green mountains. Only a handful of Japanese got down alongside us.
Hasedera Station, Sakurai
From the station it takes about 20 minute walk to reach the temple grounds. The streets are narrow and steep. It’s a quite neighborhood and it felt very peaceful walking through old rural city of Sakurai. One can also take a short-cut using stairways but we preferred to walk down the road, passing by old-fashioned wooden houses that will make you feel like walking in medieval Japan.
The road led us down into the Hase valley and across a bridge over the Hase River. Information boards are conveniently placed along the way to guide visitors towards the temple.
Up the hill to Hasedera Temple
As we walked towards the temple, we came across a small red bridge on the right continuing towards a dense forested area. The vermilion gate meant there was a shrine up there but we decided not to go up that path.
Bridge leading to a Shinto shrine in the forest
As we neared the temple, we started to see some more people. Soon, we were at a crossroad. On the left there is a fleet of steps leading up to the temple gate. At the base is a small temple building known as Souketsuke. Just opposite was a road where the wooden houses have been converted into tiny shops and restaurants. Mani picked up a green kusamochi (sweet rice balls) from one of the roadside Mochi stores. Further down the road one can find many traditional restaurants. It was lunch time so we also picked up a Kakinoha Sushi box and headed towards the temple.
It was hot and we were sweating profusely from the walk. Once we reached the base of the stairs, we decided to take a break at the Souketsuke. It serves as sort of resting place for visitors. Couple of benches are placed inside the building along with some vending machines serving fizzy drinks. I grabbed a drink while Mani feasted on the sushi.
A deity named Akiba Gongen is enshrined at the Souketsuke, a god protecting against fires
A deity named Akiba Gongen is enshrined at the Souketsuke, a god protecting against fires.
After lunch, we made our way towards the Niomon Gate. Unfortunately the gate that was covered up for repairs. Maybe because of the repairs, the entry to the temple was free for the day. Past the Niomon Gate, we took a diversion to the left. The temple grounds were laden with Ajisai. The hydrangeas in baby blue. pink and purple greeted us into the grounds.
Hasedera is also known as the Temple of flower. There is almost no moment of year that the temple stands alone without colorful blossoms of cherry, Chinese peony and hydrangea.
The gardens were laden with hundreds… no, thousands of hydrangeas in different colors. We walked past the lovely flowers checking out closely the different petals of each.
Ajisai along the path to Hasedera Temple
I was also surprised by the red maple trees in Summer. Generally they only turn red during Fall.
Some maple leaves are always red even in Summer
After spending some lovely time with the hydrangeas, we strolled up the path towards the Main Hall of Hasedera.
Stairs to Hasedera Temple
The Main Hall is, as the name suggests, the heart of the temple. It houses the Eleven-Faced Kannon, an image depicting Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy and her 11 faces. The original statue of Hase Kannon is said to have been carved out of a camphor tree in the year 727 by a priest named Tokudo Shonin. Tokudo Shonin was a fervent worshiper of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, and he started the pilgrimage network of 33 sites in Kansai sacred to Kannon, including one in Nachi.
The current statue was crafted in the year 1538. It is about 10 m high, probably the largest wooden statue in Japan. These faces are made up of one primary face and 10 secondary and are said to allow Kannon to see 360 degrees, in case anyone is in need of her assistance.
Hasedera was founded in 686 A.D. by a Buddhist priest named Domyo
During the Heian period the temple was regularly visited by members of the nobility. It was helped by the fact that it was situated along the route to the Ise Shrine.
Hase-dera flourished as one of the centers of the Shingon Buddhism, particularly after the arrival of priest Sen’yo from Negoro-ji in 1588. Upon his arrival, Hasedera became the main temple of the Buzan sect of Shingon Buddhism, a position it holds to this day.
Photography of Kannon is prohibited, so we just went up the main hall and lighted some incense sticks praying for health and happiness. Beside the public area, some visitors were entering the inner hall and praying at the feet of Kannon. Admission to the inner area requires a fee of ¥1000 yen. We skipped it and walked towards the front where a large veranda outside the Main Hall allows for a spectacular view over the Hase Valley and the surrounding hills.
Hasedera Temple is located on a wooded hillside overlooking the valley of the Hase
Beside the main hall there are a few smaller temples with Jizo statues beside them. One can spend hours walking around the temple grounds and will still discover new sights.
Kūkai, also known posthumously as Kōbō-Daishi, 774–835, was a Japanese monk and the founder of the Shingon Buddhism
From the Main Hall we went up the hill towards the Five-Storied Pagoda. It’s not very old and was constructed in as recently as 1954. It has been named Showa Pagoda after the period it was built in.
The Five-Storied Pagoda is not very old, it was erected as recently as 1954
It was early evening. We were a bit dehydrated in the Sun, so we walked back to the station to catch a train back to Nara. The best part of Hase-dera is its gardens. Though the statue of Kannon is something but the lovely gardens will take your breadth away. Try to come during cherry blossoms or like I did during the Ajisai blooms. I have heard it is also great during fall when the maple leaves turn red all across the garden.
Thank you for reading, I’m excited to hear your comments!
Best time to visit Hasedera Temple
New Year’s Eve: The most celebrated event at Hase-dera is during New Year’s Eve. In a ceremony called Kannon Mandoe, the entire staircase corridor is lit up with thousands of lanterns. This continues for evenings of January 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
Sakura Season: From late March to early April, the cherry trees of the temple blossom, providing an exquisite scenery.
Chinese Peony Season: From mid-April to early May, the 7,000 Chinese peonies planted alongside the Stairway Corridor are in bloom.
Momiji Season: Momiji are Japanese maple trees turning bright red in autumn. The temple celebrates their autumn colors from mid-October to early December.
Hours: From April to September: 8.30am to 5pm March, October, November: 9am to 5pm December to February: 9am to 4.30pm
This is a three-part story which began at dawn, with me traveling all the way from Nara to Wakayama. In Wakayama, Sandanbaki Cliffs wes the first place I visited. After spending a couple of hours at the cliffs I walked down to the lovely Shirahama beach.
The bright morning had grown into a lovely afternoon. I was in the mood for a long walk, so I left the white sands of Shirahama Beach and started my walk towards Engetsu Island.
Engetsu Island is a small white sandstone island just off Shirahama’s coast in Wakayama Prefecture. From the beach, it took me about 30 minutes on foot to reach the Engetsu viewpoint. Buses are available, but they run at long intervals, so you have to time yourself perfectly or you will end up losing a lot of time waiting.
Engetsu Island
Engetsu Island
The rock island’s formal name is Takashima, but it is widely known as Engetsuto, which is literally translated to “round moon island”. This is due to the round-shaped arch in the center of the island. Along the coast there are several points where stairs lead down into the rock formations. It was still early so I walked past the sunset viewpoint towards the end of the coastline.
Engetsu Island is also a place of historical significance, as it was the site of a major battle between the Taira and Minamoto clans during the Genpei War in the 12th century.
Road to Engetsu Island
On the way I passed an aquarium and a Glass boat ride. The rides on the glass boat are scheduled at hourly intervals. I had a free ticket to the glass boat from my all day pass but I was more in anticipation of seeing the thrilling sunset.
Boating near Engetsu Island
As I walked past the dock, I saw a cave at the edge of the coast. I had some 30 minutes on my clock so I went inside. It’s a small cave that opens up towards the sea.
The entrance to the cave on the coast of Shirahama
I was thirsty after the long walk. After grabbing a Coke from a nearby vending machine, I started my walk back to the sunset viewpoint.
Sunset at Engetsu Island
The tide was low and the rocky banks were a perfect place to sit and gaze at this marvel of nature. I went down and sat at one of the boulders nearest to the sunset point. At times the tide goes so low that people can even walk to the island, but it is forbidden because the island is not very stable and sea urchins lying on the sea-bottom can cause injuries.
Setting up my gear to take the sunset shot of Engetsu Island
The island’s sandstone rocks have become less stable throughout the years The arch was artificially repaired in 2011 to make it earthquake-proof. I sat there for some time, lost in the stunning beauty amidst the sea.
A lovely sunset on Engetsu Island
As the sun slowly descended, I went up the stairs to the viewpoint. A small crowd had gathered, mostly locals. The sun was almost ready to show itself inside the hollow arch, so I quickly set up my gear and got ready for the iconic shot. Some thick clouds on the horizon did not allow the sun to stay for long.It came and went away so fast, but I got my shot!
This shot was taken handheld as a huge crowd had gathered to witness the amazing sun as it passed within the arch of Engetsu
Sun passing through the arch of Engetsu Island
After the sunset I walked back towards the beach. Buses are rare this side of the town and I hoped to have better luck getting one from near Shirahama beach. However on reaching the bus stop, I figured it was best if I walked back all the way to the station rather than wait half an hour for the next bus to come along.
Because I walked to most of the places, I didn’t use the bus pass to its full extent. The train arrived on time and I was on my way back home.
Engetsu Island is a unique blend of natural beauty and human history. The island’s unique shape, picturesque scenery and the lighthouse are some of the main attractions that draw visitors to the island. The island is also a popular spot for photography, with its beautiful landscapes, sunsets and sunrises. A day trip from Osaka to Wakayama can be easily done and if you start early you can visit all the three interesting spots that I was able to cover. After the day tour, the sunset at Engetsu is like a cherry topping. If you are in Shirahama, it a must visit place. An all day bus pass costs 1100 Yen. It covers all the major attractions in Shirahama including the thrilling Sandanbeki cliffs.
Thanks for reading. Please do leave me a comment if you liked the post follow my story as I come back to Wakayama in a couple of days to visit the magnificent Nachi Falls.
I have been to Nara Park several times. The ever popular Tôdai-ji temple and Kasuga-Taisha shrine are always crawling with inquisitive tourists, but today Mani & I wander beyond these cultural landscapes into the Kasugayama Primeval Forest. The natural environment of Kasugayama is an integral yet invisible part of the shrines and temples in Nara Park. The park is so large you could easily wander into the Primeval Forest, without even knowing it.
Kasugayama Primeval Forest is a primeval forest spread over 250 hectares, near the summit of Kasugayama. It contains around 270 different kinds of trees. Hunting and logging have been prohibited in the sacred forest since 841 CE. As a result, the forest backdrop of the shrines that you see today have remained unchanged since the Nara period, retaining the authenticity in spirit and feeling from yesteryear.
I had been looking forward to hike to Uguisuno-taki Falls for some time now, but the wet weather in Nara kept preventing me. Eventually the rains gave way this week and we took the opportunity to hike up the Wakakusa mountain. After a quick meal at the college cafeteria, Mani & I walked towards Todaiji from where the trail starts.
The hike to the Falls is about 10 km round trip, from the base of Wakakusayama. You can find the trail somewhere between Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha which leads into the woods. A signboard is present at the start of the trail, so it won’t be tough to find.
Kasugayama Primeval Forest
None of the busybee tourists flock this trail. It was only after maybe half an hour that we we came upon a group of cheerful elderly ladies, trudging back towards the city. They greeted us with smiles and “Konnichiwa.” I always find the friendliest of people on hikes. Maybe its the mountain air or the excitement from conquering the hike.
There are some Snake warning signs along the path so be careful.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
Deep into the forest, we found some lovely looking Japanese beautyberry shrubs. It is a deciduous shrub, most notable for producing purple berries during fall. These fruits are not toxic but also not edible for humans. They serve as al alternative food to the birds and deer in the forest.
Purple Berries inside Kasugayama Primeval Forest
Halfway up the mountain the woods become thicker and the trees become taller. With the thick forest of pine trees surrounding me, I felt like a tiny little ant. There was silence all around us except for the sudden chirping of the birds. It was a welcome break from the increasing number of temples I had been visiting of late. The inside of the forest is dim even in the daytime as sunlight is not able to penetrate through the tall trees.
The thick woods with rows of Pine trees
The waterfall lies at the northeastern end of the Kasugayama primeval forest. The fall does not lie along the main trail so you will have to follow the directions provided along the way. There are proper signs that will tell you once you have reached the exit point to get to the waterfall. From there you have to descend down from the main trail. The path becomes very narrow here and at some curves, are a bit tricky to negotiate in the wet mud. After about 15 minutes of descent, we reached the waterfall at around 2:30 pm.
Mobile internet services might be intermittent at several points of the trail
After the climb down from the main trail, a flight of stairs takes you to the Waterfall
Uguisuno-taki Falls has been a popular local spot since the Edo period (1600-1868). It takes its name from the popular Uguisu bird, also known as the Japanese bush warbler. The Uguisu, with its camouflaged colors, is more often heard than seen. Its distinctive breeding call can be heard throughout most of Japan from the start of spring. Since the Edo Period, the Japanese have anticipated the first calls of the bush warbler as it heralds the coming of spring in Japan.
We spent some time at the base of the falls, capturing some photos of the surrounding area. It is not a grand waterfall. It would be about 8 meters in height and due to the season, the water was a little more of a trickle. However what is interesting is that the water flow never dries up here. Still it was a nice place to sit down and relax. The water at the base of the fall was very very cold.
Uguisunotaki Falls
By 3:30 pm we started our walk back. The way back was much faster. We were quickly out of the wooded area where the skies were much more visible. In the late afternoon, the Sun had sprayed the forest with a golden glow.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
Once you are out of the woods, it feels quite pleasant walking on the pebbled path. Surprisingly I didn’t notice any deer in the area, though this isn’t very far from the Nara Park where they can be found loitering in abundance.
Hike to Uguisunotaki Falls
After walking for about an hour, we were back at Nara Park in front of the glowing, brown Wakakusayama, slated to be burned in a couple of weeks as part of the Yamayaki festival. Every winter on the fourth Saturday of January, Wakakusayama’s slopes are burned during the spectacular Wakakusa Yamayaki festival.
Viki Pandit at Nara Park
I love to be able to experience wilderness areas in peace.The Uguisuno-taki Falls is not a very big waterfall, but the hike alone is gratifying in itself. It is the only waterfall in the vicinity of Mt Kasuga. The trail to Uguisuno-taki continues beyond the waterfall and I hope we can come back another day to continue on that path and see where it goes.
Thank you for reading. Please leave me a comment or ask away if you need any information for hiking to the hidden waterfall.
Today we decided go up to Lake Biwa. The Torii at Shirahige Jinja is one of the most scenic spots of Lake Biwa.
Lake Biwa or Biwa-ko is largest freshwater lake in Japan. Located in Shiga, it is approximately 60 km long from north to south. Because of its proximity to the old capital, Kyoto, references to Lake Biwa appear frequently in Japanese literature and particularly in poetry.
The legend of Biwa-ko
The name of the lake originates from the Biwa, a Japanese musical instrument that resembles the shape of the lake. The name Biwako was established sometime in the Edo Period. There are various theories about the origin of the name Biwako, but it is generally believed to be so named because of its resemblance of its shape to that of the stringed instrument.
Lake Biwa is said to be of tectonic origin. It is one of the oldest of the twenty “ancient lakes” of the world and can be traced back to more than 4 million years. This long uninterrupted age has allowed for a notably diverse ecosystem to evolve in the lake. UNESCO, through its Ramsar Convention, helps with the ecological conservation of some 1,100 species living in and around the lake.
Travelling in Japan is a breeze with the smallest of towns connected with trains. However, it is expensive and we used the Seishun 18 pass for our travel to Shiga. We took the JR train from Nara to Kyoto. At Kyoto we changed to a local train on the Kosei Line towards Lake Biwa.
After Otsukyo Station, the train line runs parallel to the lake and one can enjoy the views of the blue lake for the rest of the way, provided you sit towards the right of the coach. Created by a structural depression and fed by small rivers flowing from the encircling mountains, the lake looks endless. From the large window of the train, I could see snow on top of some of the mountains on the far side the lake. From Kyoto it takes about an hour to reach the Omi-Takashima Station where we got down. The Torii at Shirahige Jinja is about 30 minute walk from here.
As you get out of the station, the first thing you notice is the huge Omi-Takashima Gulliver Monument. I later found out that there is a Gulliver’s village for small people some 12 km away from the station.
For those interested, there is a Gulliver's Town some 10 kms away
We made our way towards the Shirahige shrine on foot. The area was desolate and devoid of any humans. A few minutes into the walk we came across the Otomega Pond. We walked across a very creative bridge over the Otomega-ike pond.
At the edge of the park is the Otomegaike Pond
Various small homes inhabited by local fishermen are strewn along the banks of the pond, surrounded by rice fields. Right after crossing the pond we were at the Nishi-Oumi Highway. A small tunnel below the expressway took us across to the banks of Lake Biwa. As we walked along the concrete bank we passed a few locals parked there trying their hand at fishing.
Lake Biwa near Omi-Takashima Station
The view was clear and amazing. I could see the majestic, snow-clad Mt. Ibuki in a distance across the blue waters of the lake. In addition to its fresh water pearl history, Lake Biwa has great scenic spots, cycling paths, temples and shrines and farmlands. The lake also supplies water to some 14 million residents around and downstream of the lake. The sole outlet, the Yodo River, flows from Lake Biwa’s southern tip to Osaka Bay.
Mani at Lake Biwa
A few meters ahead the concrete path gave way to a sandy beach. The white sand looked like we were on one of the beautiful beaches of Mauritius. It was a bit tough walking as our shoes dug into the semi wet sand. As we walked on, the beach became wider. It turns out this part of the beach is the Shirohigehamasuiei Camping Ground. Towards the rear of this beautiful beach there is a thick grove of pine trees.
It was late afternoon by the time we reached the sandy beach of Lake Biwa
Beyond the pine trees, the beach suddenly ends and we had to move over to a side-walk along the expressway. The vehicles were going at a frightening speed. Dusk was setting in so we picked up our pace. After a few minutes, Mani pointed out to the Torii in the lake. We took a break here and took some pictures with the dying sun setting the sky on fire from its reflection.
Sunset over Lake Biwa
After a few minutes we continued our walk towards the Shirahige Jinja. In all it took us 40 minutes to walk to the shrine. Light was fading fast and the gate was lit up by a couple of beaming lights. We descended down to the lake by a flight of stairs. The water had receded a bit in the low tide, revealing a small bit of sandy bank.
Sunset over Lake Biwa
We stood there for some time bathing in the surreal surrounding. Surrounded by mountains, thick forest and beaches, the area is truly relaxing. It is said, the monk, Ikkyu, the most well-known zen master in Japan, had his moment of enlightenment on Lake Biwa.
The sun was just setting as we reached Shirahige Jinja
Torii at Shirahige Jinja at Night
As night set in, the Torii was lit up in glowing light.
The beautiful Torii at Shirahige Jinja. The sun had set and the illumination cast a magical glow on the gate.
It was dark when we started our back to the Station. Chatting away about the glistening magnificence of Biwa-ko, we made our way back. It was truly another unforgettable experience.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I hike deep into the woods of Kasugayama Primeval Forest.
The sun was shining again and I didn’t want to miss out on an opportunity to explore Kasuga Taisha. We had missed going inside the shrine on the day we went for a walk in the Nara Deer Park and it looked like a lovely day to fix it.
Kasuga Taisha was built in 768 CE by Lord Fujiwara, by the order of Emperor Shotoku. It enshrines four gods from important shrines around the country. From the 8th century, as the Fujiwara dynasty grew in clout, the Kasuga shrine also prospered. Kasuga Taisha became so powerful that even Emperors came to worship here. During that time, the Fujiwara clan wielded such huge amount of political influence that some emperors even married daughters from this clan.
I had stashed up a handful of acorns the day before when I was at Toshodaiji. As I walked past the Deer park, herds came running towards me with needy smiles. After feeding them, I sat in the park for a few minutes with my camera bag doubling up as a back pillow.
Nara Park
The deer gleefully loitered in the verdant greens, munching on the soft grass. It was funny sometimes as they would head-butt the visitors with senbei in their hands and chase them around the park.
The males would keep an eye on the females and if anyone wandered too far they would run after them screeching at them to rejoin the herd.
Deer at Nara Park
After an hour of lazying in the soft sun, I started towards the Kasuga Taisha shrine. The road to the shrine goes through a truly primordial forest. The wide gravel path is lined on both sides with hundreds of moss-covered stone lanterns. These lanterns numbering around 2000, are lit during Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August, which must be an awe-inspiring sight.
Stone lanterns in Nara Park
At the gate, a pair of Shishi, lion-dogs stood guard. The lion-dogs also called Koma-inu, traditionally stand guard outside the gates of most Japanese Shinto shrines. In contrast, the Buddhist temples are typically guarded by the Nio Protectors. As guardians outside the shrine gate, one Shishi is depicted with its mouth open, to scare off demons, and the other with its mouth closed, to shelter the good spirits.
Sishi Lions near Kasuga Taisha
A few minutes up the path is the main entrance. The whole shrine is painted in bright red with green accents. I stood near the entrance to get a clean shot without people, but they just kept streaming in. The priestesses were dressed in lovely red & white Kimono. Near the shops, you can find some ema wood planks hanging with prayers from the visitors.
Ema at Kasuga Taisha
Near the gate the fortune-telling stalls were doing good business. The outer area is free, but to enter the shrine, one has to pay an admission fee. After waiting for some time, once the crowd thinned out, I went to the admission booth. The ticket cost me ¥500. Inside the path is marked with arrows for tourists.
Kasuga Taisha Gate
While outside all lanterns are made from stone, the ones inside are cast in bronze. Some of them are covered with gold leaf. The architecture of the Shrine is known as the “Kasuga style” due to the unique shape of its roof.
Kasuga Taisha
According to Japanese Shinto rituals, shrines were generally destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years for purification. So, technically the current structure as of today is the 57th Kasuga Shrine, an exact reconstruction based on the original layout.
Kasuga Taisha
Main Lantern
Kasuga Taisha Front Lantern
The first hall I walked into was the prayer room or Kyojyo. A priest was reciting Sutras. Shinto worship is highly ritualized, and follows strict conventions of protocol, order and control.
Prayer Room at Kasuga Taisha
Past the prayer room, I reached a corridor lined with many bronze lanterns.
Bronze Lanterns at Kasuga Taisha
At the far end of the corridor was a closed room. The room was dark and dimly lit by the lanterns. It was an un-earthly experience inside the room. I had to really crank up the ISO to take this shot.
Lanterns at Kasuga Taisha
I circled back towards the front area. There I found many more golden lanterns hanging in a neat row.
Golden Lanterns at Kasuga Taisha
To the left of the front building was another path. I followed it towards the back of the shrine.
Kasuga Taisha Back
There are a couple of smaller shrines towards the back, surrounded by thick green grove. I walked around taking some pictures.
Munakata Jinja
It was evening and time for me to head back to the university cafeteria for an early dinner.
Fertility Shrine
Admission Timings
6:00 to 18:00 (April to September) 6:30 to 17:30 (October to March)
After spending a couple of hours in the peaceful gardens of Toshodai-ji, I walked down to Yakushi-ji using Google Maps as my guide. It led me along a narrow path along a Canal. The water flowing in the Canal was sparkling clear. I cannot in my wildest dream think of such clean flowing water in Kolkata (my hometown).
I trudged along the path at a leisurely pace. At the first intersection, I asked a traffic cop for directions who directed me towards the gate of the temple. While walking towards the Yakushi-ji temple, I happened to see a lovely courtyard on my right and I went in to take a look.
The beautiful courtyard with lush green grass at Genjo-Sanzoin.
Genjo Sanzoin Garan, Yakushi-ji
The signboard was in Japanese and the paper map I had from the tourism office did not contain any mention of this place. At the end of the courtyard was a beautiful gate. As I walked nearer to the gate I saw an admission booth at the end of the courtyard. The guy at the counter was of little help when I asked about the place, but he did understand “Yakushi-ji” and offered me a ticket to go inside. From the ticket, I realized that it was the Genjo Sanzo Complex. Priced at ¥1100, the admission ticket to Genjo Sanzo Complex also includes entry to the Yakushi-ji temple grounds.
It was a working day and thankfully the crowd was a lot less compared to Nara Park
In the center of the walled structure is a two-storey red pagoda. The corridors surrounding the pagoda were decorated with Bonsai trees. Along with the tiny trees, the exhibit also featured some beautiful Ikebana (Japanese flower arrangement) flowers.
Genjō-Sanzōin (Xuanzang Hall) of Yakushi-ji temple
Towards the end of the passage, in a covered area, I was found some 6 foot high paintings featuring the various places Hiuen Tsang visited on his journey, that culminated with him reaching Nalanda. Ikuo Hirayama, a famous Japanese-style painter is credited for creating these enriching wall paintings. Photography of the paintings was prohibited.
On my way back I was clicking some photos of the red Pagoda when a Japanese guy, approached me. I don’t recall his name but he was quite friendly and we got into a conversation. I told him I was from India. In his broken English and lot of app translation, he made me aware of the Hiuen Tsang connection. Tsang is also known by the name of Genjo Sanzo.
Note: Genjo-Sanzoin is opened only from Jan.1-5, Mar.1-Jun.15, Sep.16-Nov.25
Hiuen Tsang
The Genjo Sanzoin Garan(薬師寺玄奘三蔵院伽藍) was built in honor of Hiuen Tsang (Xuanzang in Chinese, 602-664) , who traveled to India in around 632 CE to seeking learn more about Buddhism. His travels along the Silk Route is something I studied with great zeal as a child. His visit to India was an important event during the reign of king Harshavardhana. We are much indebted to this Chinese traveler for the valuable accounts he left behind, detailing the political, religious, economic, social conditions of those times.
The beautiful red pagoda is said to contain the remains of Hieun Tsang
He spent around five years studying Buddhism at the University of Nalanda. He brought from India about 20,000 scrolls of sutras and dedicated his life to translating about 13,000 of them. No mean achievement. For his contribution, a memorial hall was dedicated to him at Nalanda in Bihar, that I plan to visit someday. Built in 1981, the octagonal hall enshrines some remains (a few pieces of skull) of Hiuen Tsang.
It is also interesting to know how the remains of Hiuen Tsang found their way to Nara.
It was in the midst of Sino-Japanese war in 1942, when the Japanese military found Hiuen Tsang’s remains in Nanjing, China. After intense mediation between the two countries, it was settled that both share the remains and enshrine it in their respective countries. The remains were initially brought to Jionji in Saitama. Some of these ashes were later donated to Yakushi-ji in 1981 when the Genjo-Sanzoin complex was built.
Confirming the way to Yakushi-ji, I made my way towards the 9th century temple. Before leaving, I roamed around the beautiful garden of the Hiuen Tsang memorial. In the garden I noticed a couple of big black ravens, almost double the size of any I have seen before. Their crackling sounds broke through the pin-drop silence of the grounds.
Genjo-Sanzoin-Garden
Yakushi-ji Temple (薬師寺)
It didn’t take me long to reach the entrance to Yakushi-ji, it’s just opposite to the Genjo Sanzo Complex. One has to cross the road and go past the admission checkpoint. I had to show the ticket I purchased at the Genjo Sanzoin. The entry to the temple grounds goes through a small building selling souvenirs and books. You can find many books dedicated to the history of the temple, some if English but mostly in Japanese.
History of Yakushi-ji Temple
Yakushi-ji is among Unesco’s list of “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara” World Heritage Site alongside Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha Shrine. The temple is the headquarters of the Hosso sect of Japanese Buddhism. Known as the Temple of Medicine, the construction of Yakushi-ji was commenced in 680 CE on the orders of Emperor Tenmu. It was hoped that the grand temple will aid in the recovery of the Empress from a serious illness at that time.
You might be left bewildered that this huge site was initially constructed in Asuka in south Nara, in the Fujiwara capital.
Unfortunately, during the long term of the construction, Temmu himself died and his wife acceded to the throne. For most parts of the temple, the actual construction was undertaken during her reign. In 697, the dedication ceremony for enshrining the Yakushi Nyorai was held and the temple was opened to the public.
Within just 10 years of its completion, the capital was moved to north of Nara in 710. Following this in 718, the whole Yakushi-ji compound was shifted to the current site.
As you walked into the compound, the first thing you will notice is the Kodo hall to your right. A few steps ahead on the right you will find a small building with a huge bell.
Temple Bell at Yakushi-ji
Toindo Hall of Yakushi-ji
I kept walking down on the straight path towards the Toindo Hall. Before the Toin-do Hall a temple existed here known as the Tozen-in Temple, built under the instruction of Imperial Princess Kibi during the Yoro era (717-724) to pray for the soul of her mother, Empress Genmei. The present Toin-do Hall was constructed in 1285 during the Kamakura period.
The Toindo Hall, also known as the Meditation Hall
The standing statue of Sho-Kannon (Aryavalokitesvaraand from the Hakuho Period, 645-710), the Honzon of this hall, is enshrined inside Zushi (a cupboard-like case with double doors within is an image of Buddha, a sutra, or some other revered object kept at a temple) in the hall. The statue is said to retain the influence of Indian sculpture style of the Gupta Period (350-650) In the year 1733, during the Edo period, the hall was reconstructed, but facing West this time. The hall is the oldest Zen hall in Japan.
Sho-Kanzeon Bosatsu | National Treasure | Hakuho Period [645 - 710]
The hall also contains some Nio statues. These photos might be a bit blurry as photography was forbidden inside the hall and I used my heavy-weight 80-400 mm lens to take these.
The below idol of Jikokuten, is part of the four heavenly kings. According to temple records, it is said to be created in 1289 CE and painted in 1296. The idol poses fiercely with its feet on devils while protecting forcefully the teachings of Buddha.
A statue of Jikokuten, one of the four heavenly kings inside the Toindo Hall at Yakushi-ji [1289]
Kondo Hall of Yakushi-ji
I circled around the Toindo Hall and found myself at the front gate of the Yakushi-ji temple. Yes, its a bit weird but the main entrance to the temple grounds is actually at the back.
Main Hall of Yakushi-ji
At the gate you can see two huge warrior statues guarding the entrance on both sides. Niō (仁王) or Kongōrikishi (金剛力士) are two wrathful and muscular guardians of the Buddha standing at the entrance of most Buddhist temples in Japan.
Ungyo Nio Statue at Yakushi-ji
These Nio guardians have their own interesting story. If you wish to know more, read here about the Nio Guardians.
Agyo Nio Statue at Yakushi-ji
The main hall referred to as Kondo is characterized by two illustrious pagodas on either side. The Hall houses a bronze Buddha from 697 AD. The Yakushi Nyorai, or Healing Buddha, is seated between two attendant Bodhisattvas, Nikko Bosatsu (of the sun) to the right and Gakko Bosatsu (of the moon) to left. The engravings on the pedestal where Buddha is seated seems to be a from a combination of cultures including Greece, Persia, India & China. Originally covered with gold, they now appear black due to the fire in 1528.
Yakushi Nyorai | National Treasure | Hakuho Period [645-710]
The statue was originally cast during the reign of Emperor Temmu in 680 and completed by Empress Jito in 697. It is the Buddha of healing who vowed to cure the disease of the mind and the body.
Note: Generally Yakushi Nyorai is depicted with a medicine pot on its left hand, but the statue in this temple does not have it.
West Pagoda at Yakushi-ji
Yakushiji temple grounds contains two pagodas. Unfortunately the East Pagoda was all covered up for repairs which is going to last till about April 2020. The East Pagoda is a National Treasure from the Hakuho Period. It is about 34 meters high. The East Pagoda (Toto) dates from around 698 AD. This pagoda, miraculously survived the fire that destroyed Yakushi-ji in 1528. It is the only surviving architecture of the Hakuho Period in Japan.
While the East Pagoda is black in color, the West one is red. The original West Pagoda burned down in 1528 and was rebuilt in 1980.
The beautiful red pagoda at Yakushi-ji
Pagoda means a grave in the Pali, the ancient Indian language
Daikodo Hall of Yakushi-ji
I walked around the back towards the Lecture Hall. The Kodo (Lecture Hall) was rebuilt in 1852. It is the largest hall in the temple grounds.
Kodo Hall at Yakushi-ji
This hall enshrines Miroku Triad from the Hakuho Period flanked by two Arhats. The Miroku Nyorai is flanked by Houonrin Bosatsu (left) and Daimyoso Bosatsu (right) as you face it.
The Mytreya Buddha Triad from the Hakuho Period flanked by Arhats in Kodo Hall at Yakushi-ji
Shaka Judai Deshi Jo (Sakyamuni’s Ten Great Desciples)
Behind the sculpture of Buddha, with a thin wall dividing the room, are kept 10 idols of Arhats. The Arhats are said to be the followers of Buddha who have followed his Eightfold Path and attained the Four Stages of Enlightenment and are free of worldly cravings. These 10 Arhats formed part of the First Council in Rajagrha, where they vowed to renounce material life in order to devote themselves more effectively to the relief of human misery.
These statues were sculpted by Shinya Nakamura from Kagoshima Prefecture.
Life-size Arhat Statue at Yakushi-ji
Yakushi-ji was burnt down and destroyed many times by fires, wars and natural disasters. However the biggest damages were caused by fires – first in 973 and then again in 1528.
Today only the Yakushi-ji triad in the Kondo, the Sho-Kannon in the Toindo and the East Pagoda recall the grandeur of its original features.
It was already 4:30 pm and the temples around Nara generally shut down after 5 pm. I took some more pictures of the west pagoda and then walked back to the souvenir stalls.
West Pagoda at Yakushi-ji
At the souvenir shop I purchased a photo book, containing photographs of the sculptures at Yakushi-ji. The book contains pictures of many age-old figurines that are rarely displayed. I also wanted to buy a bunch of incense sticks, but they were way too expensive at ¥2000 a bunch.
Before moving out, I asked the person at the counter, how to go back to Kintetsu Nara. He directed me towards the train station nearby, but I was still not too sure with trains, and decided to find the nearest bus stop. I thanked him with a smiling “Arigatou.” I believe one can get away, around Japan with just these three words: Arigatou, Sumi-masen & Gomen-nasai… and not to forget, a Smile 🙂
I walked towards the train station looking for the nearest bus stop. I looked for the time-table at the bus stop, but it wasn’t very clear. A girl, probably also waiting for the bus, asked me about JR Nara Station. I told her I was myself going back to Kintetsu and they were in the same route.
We decided to walk back down the road towards the canal to Toshodai-ji. At Toshodai-ji we asked an elderly lady and she pointed us towards the correct bus stop. We waited there at the stop for a few minutes, along with some other tourists before the bus came along and drove us back to our destinations.
Yakushi-ji at Night
If you wait around a bit for the darkness to set, you can also see the wonderful image of the West pagoda lit up by the bulbs inside the Yakushi-ji complex. The summit of the Pagoda, called Water flame lights up in bright golden as the evening slips into the night.
The west Pagoda at Yakushi-ji at Night
Yakushi-ji has a lot of history. It is one of the seven large temples in Nara that includes like Todai-ji, Daian-ji, Saidai-ji, Gango-ji, Horyu-ji and Kofuku-ji. I was disappointed at first, not to have seen the black pagoda, but still the grounds are a great place to roam around and witness the moments of glory of Nara.
Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit one the most overlooked temple at Nara Park – Kasuga Taisha.
When was Yakushi-ji built ?
680 CE near Kashihara. Yakushiji was originally constructed in Fujiwara-kyo south of Nara (present day Kashihara city), and was finally completed in 698. The temple was moved to its present location in 718, after the capital was moved to the north of Nara in 710.
What are Yakushi-ji temple visiting hours?
8:30 – 17:00 (last admission at 16:30)
What is the price of admission tickets for Yakushi-ji?
Only Yakushi-ji: Adults: ¥800 Yakushi-ji with Genjo Sanjo-in: Adults: ¥1,100
When is Genjo Sanjo-in is open to public?
Genjo-Sanzoin is opened only from Jan.1-5, Mar.1-Jun.15, Sep.16-Nov.25
