The Fukuro Connection

My inquisitiveness in Owls started in the summer of 2015. We had just come back to my hometown in Kolkata from Bangalore. In our absence of almost two years, an owl family had taken up residence in the loft of our apartment.

During evenings, the mother Owl would, every once in a while take out the younglings for training. Once the kids grew up, they eventually left the loft. So, imagine my surprise when on my walks in Nara and Kyoto, I frequently came across shops selling various owl figurines, cell phone dangles, stickers, key chains, phone covers and even dining ware. Apart from shops what got me even more curious was that many houses had these owl figurines installed in front, beside the entrance. I had to find out more about why the Owls are so popular in Japanese culture.

Owls are one of the oldest species, dating back 60 million years. Throughout the history of mankind, the owl has featured significantly in mythology & folklore. Owls have been both revered throughout many civilisations from ancient to more recent times. They have long been associated with magic and wizardry in Western mythology and is a symbol of wisdom that many in the West are familiar with, but owls also hold special meaning in Japan.

In Japan, owls are perceived to bring luck and offer protection from suffering. Mani was a great help in how the Japanese created the word for Owls. Japanese Kanji is very logical and they use letters that symbolize the end word. Fukuro フクロウ (梟), which can be written in different sets of characters: One with the meaning of luck (福 fuku, luck; 来ku, to come; 郎 ro suffix used in boys’ names), and the other as protection from hardship (不 fu, no, 苦労 kurou suffering/hardship).

I am not superstitious , but I grew up in a highly superstitious country where even seeing a black cat means bad luck. So, for me, as long as it does not hurt somebody, I find it very entertaining.

With their lucky symbolism, owl lucky charms and trinkets make popular souvenirs and gifts. They are a great way to wish a friend or loved one good fortune, and a life free from hardship and troubles. Typically gifts bearing the motif of owls are also given to loved ones as souvenirs or for well wishing.This is why an enormous variety of owl merchandise and souvenirs can be found in modern Japan.

Digging deeper I chanced upon a website that talks about the Ainu tribes of Northern Japan and their connection with Owls.

Ainu are the indigenous people of Japan that inhabit the northernmost parts of Japan in Hokkaido. According to legends, Chikap Kamuy is a great owl that watches over the land and its inhabitants. Blakiston’s Fish Owl (Ketupa blakistoni) is one of the most important gods of the native Ainu people of Hokkaido, in Japan. It is called “kotan kor kamuy”, which translates to “god of the village” or “god who defends the village”.

The Ainu in Japan trust the Owl because it gives them notice of evil approaching. They revere the Owl, and believe it mediates between the Gods and men. The bird features prominently in Japanese folklore where it is considered both to be sacred and to have magical powers. The Ainu place carved Owls on their houses to ward off famine and pestilence.

I have seen many representations of owls in the Nara & Kyoto, ranging from statues placed in gardens to lucky charms. My knowledge is still limited to the English websites and ebooks I could get my hands onto. I am certain the indigenous Japanese folk will have a much thorough understanding of the bond they share with Owls. I would love to learn more so kindly leave a comment below if you have any inputs on this subject.

Credits:

www.owlfamily.co.jp

Todai-ji : Home of Buddha

Today we went for a walk to Nara Park to explore the age-old Buddhist temple of Todai-ji (東大寺). Once the most powerful temple in all of Japan, guarded by the fierce Sohei warrior monks, its phenomenal rise eventually forced the Emperor to shift their capital from Nara to Kyoto to stop its growing influence.

After a long week of dull cloudy days, the sun was finally shining through. It was a Monday and I was hoping the crowd would be less compared to the weekends. The last time we were at the park, it was late in the evening and the temple hall had closed down for the day. Shrines and temple in Japan close down early around 5/5.30 pm depending on the season. The last entry time is generally around 30 minutes before closing time.

Mani & I walked down to Todai-ji along the route from Nara University. The lanes on this route are much peaceful compared to the regular thoroughfare via Kofuku-ji. The narrow lanes lined with vintage wooden houses adds to the nostalgia. After walking for about 10 minutes, we were at the Daibutsu-ike pond.

Nandai-mon Gate of Todai-ji

A few paces beyond the pond, we took a right turn to reach the Nandai-mon Gate – a large wooden gate watched over by two fierce-looking Asuras. Eighteen giant pillars, each of 21 m height, support the roof with the entire structure rising to about 25 meters above the stone plinth on which it rests. The Nandai-mon Gate is the largest temple entrance gate in Japan, complementing perfectly in scale to the huge Daibutsuden (Buddha Hall).

The original structure erected during the Nara period was destroyed by a typhoon in the Heian period (794-1185). The present gate, which dates to the Kamakura period (1185–1333), was reconstructed by Chōgen, the monk responsible for restoring Tōdai-ji, at the end of the twelfth century. The ridgepole was raised in 1199 and the structure was completed in 1203.

The Nio statues, positioned on either sides of the gate, were carved sometime in the 13th century by the sculptors Unkei and Kaikei. It is said they took only 69 days to carve out these immensely detailed wooden statues. The massive statues are about 8.4 meters in height and look particularly impressive at night when they are illuminated.

The statues represent the Nio Guardian Kings. Known as Kongo Rikishi , the statues, one with mouth open, the other with mouth closed, are said to represent life and death. In Indian mythology, these two guardian kings are referred to as Vajradharas or thunderbolt holders. I have researched in more detail about the history of Nio Guardians. You can read all about it here.

The 7m-tall wooden kongorikishi statues at Tōdai-ji in Nara were made by Busshi Unkei in 1203.

Just beyond the Nandai-mon, you can find the entrance gate to the main grounds of the temple. This gate however is opened only on special festive days. To enter the compound you have to take a left turn to the corner where you will find a smaller door that leads to the admission ticket booth inside.

Kagami-ike

Beside the gate, you can find the beautiful Kagami-ike pond. The pond features a tiny green island. On the island there’s a small shrine dedicated to three female kami, protectors of fishermen, called Itsukushima. The name of the pond implies its a mirror, and at a certain angle you can see the reflection of Todai-ji in the pond.

From the pond, we made our way towards the admission booth that lies inside the outer compound. The tickets cost us ¥600 per person. After buying the tickets, one has to go past a narrow gate, beyond which you will find a black Urn semi-filled with ashes. Three troll like creatures hold up the urn on their shoulders.

There is a small rectangular box adjacent to the urn called the saisen-bako, where you can drop some money that goes towards the upkeep of the temple grounds. You should avoid throwing your offering so as not to appear disrespectful. While it is less about the amount of the offering than the sincerity of your prayers, Japanese superstition dictates that certain yen amounts bring good or bad luck. Beside the donation box there are bunches of incense sticks. You can light up a few before offering your prayers.

The five-yen coin is considered a good choice for donation because it sounds like ‘go-en’, the Japanese word for luck. The ten-yen coin, however, is considered unlucky despite being worth twice as much because it sounds like ‘tou-en’, which means that your luck will be far away.

Standing at the urn and looking towards the Great Hall is a grand sight. Pictures cannot convey the feeling I had as I gradually started walking towards the main hall. I felt like a tiny tiny person.

Todai-ji’s grounds are spacious. Within the precincts of the temple are an array of other buildings in the hills, including halls and storehouses that spread over a big part of northern Nara Park. Visitors are not allowed to wander into these areas. As you walk towards the main hall, you will find a small structure to your right where you should wash your hands. It is not necessary but recommended.

Todai-ji’s main hall, the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall) is the world’s largest wooden building.

Origins of Todai-ji

Buddhism might have its roots amidst the overwhelming Himalayas, it might have bloomed in the Indian districts of Gaya, but ultimately it found its home in the beautiful islands of Japan, specially in this small part of Nara.

The name Todai-ji literally means giant temple east of the capital. It served as an institute of higher learning for monks and as the headquarters of Kokubunji temples established by Emperor Shomu across the nation to propagate Buddhist teachings.

The reign of Emperor Shōmu extended from 724-749 CE. It was marked by several attempted coups and rebellions, as well as natural disasters and epidemics. Towards the later stages of his reign, he tried to be a virtuous ruler. He was inspired by his wife, who opened medical clinics and cared for the needy. He began to believe that Buddhism could bring protection, peace, and prosperity to his people.

There’s a document that verifies that a decision was reached by the emperor in 734 after he’d been worrying greatly about his leadership. Around that time, many people had starved to death after a series of natural disasters, including drought, famine, and a major earthquake. Such was the anarchy that people stole from one another to survive.

In 741, Emperor Shōmu issued an edict that said every province should have a monastery and nunnery. The system of monasteries was known as Kokubun-ji. In 743, the he announced plans to build a huge statue of Vairocana, the Cosmic Buddha.

History of Todai-ji

Todai-ji is the headquarters of the Kegon sect of Japanese Buddhism and Vairocana Buddha is considered by followers of the sect to be the spiritual body of the historical Buddha – Gautama Buddha or Sakyamuni. Construction of the Great Buddha began in 743. The 53-foot-high bronze statue was cast in eight stages. It included 500 tons of ornamentation made of copper, tin, lead, and gold. The casting process used up all the copper in the Japanese archipelago. The chief sculptor, Kuninaka no Kimimaro, was the son of a Korean immigrant.

Did you know: An artist named Kuninaka no Kimimaro led the original Daibutsu construction project

The vast temple was constructed as a symbol of imperial power and took over 15 years to complete. Once the casting was completed in 749, Shōmu gave up the throne and became a Buddhist priest.

The Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, was more than 60 feet high and included three million pounds of metal covered with gold. The original temple hall is said to have been even more spectacular. It is said that the original was 86 meters wide, so 29 meters wider than the current building. It incorporated a blue-tiled roof, white walls, and lacquered pillars. Built in the style of a Chinese palace building, the main hall had enormous red columns along with a yellow ceiling, green window frames, and a black tile roof. Two 90-meter-tall, seven-story pagodas stood at opposite ends of the from the hall. Both were destroyed over a period of time. The Great Buddha Hall was finished in 751 CE.

Fact-file: Its hard to imagine that Daibutsuden is now only two-thirds of its original size. Wonder how huge it was originally

The construction of Todai-ji and the bronze Buddha used up extensive amount of bronze, and by the time it was completed in 749, it had used up all of Japan’s bronze resources.

The Great Buddha and Tōdai-ji temple were consecrated in 752. The “eye-opening” ceremony was attended by visitors from the Asian continent. The 17,000 attendees included monks and nobles from Japan, as well as monks and dignitaries from China, Korea, and India. Of course, the reigning Empress Kōken was there. So was her father, the retired emperor Shōmu.

Though it was originally founded in the year 738 CE, Todai-ji was not opened to public until the year 752 CE.

Just before you enter the temple, you will find the Octagonal Lantern in the style of a Tachi-gata. The lantern dates from the time of the founding of Todai-ji. The distinctive large fire chamber (hibukuro) is covered with a sloping roof (kasa) surmounted by a jewel finial (kurin). It rests upon a stone base surrounded by small stone posts emanating from the pedestal. Eight panels makeup the fire chamber, ornamented with celestial musicians. The lantern contains four pairs of hinged doors decorated with lions running across clouds.

If you look closely you can find on one of the panels a representation of Krishna, a Hindu deity, playing his flute.

Myths surrounding Todai-ji

There are a number of mythical tales surrounding Todai-ji. I will share one of the interesting ones that is mentioned in the 12th century, Konjaku monogatari shu, a collection of folklores.

The story goes like – after Todai-ji was completed, Emperor Shomu desired to hold a dedication ceremony to consecrate its new statue of Buddha. A monk from India known as Baramon was asked to serve as the lecturer at the dedication ceremony. The priest Gyoki and the Emperor were still deliberating on who will read the sutras. Gyoki, himself being a monk of high regard, who became a monk at Asuka-dera, a temple in Nara, at the age of 15 and studied under Dōshō as one of his first pupils.

One night in his dreams, the Emperor was visited by a heavenly being and was told that someone will show up in front of the temple on the morning of the dedication ceremony. Whether he be a priest or a commoner, he or she should be the reader.

The next morning, the emperor confided in Gyoki, his dream and they sent a messenger to the gate of the Temple at dawn in front of the gate of the temple. It so happened that an old man came along, carrying on his back a bamboo basket filled with blue mackerel.

The emperor firmly believed in his dream and asked the old man to be dressed in religious robes and serve as the reader of the sutras. The old man protested that he just a fishmonger and not qualified for such a task. The emperor however would not accept his refusal.

Did you know: 2.6 million people were employed to construct the original Daibutsuden wood building

When the dedication ceremony started, the emperor had the fishmonger take a seat on the dias, beside the lecturer. The babboo basket with th fish was kept on the east dide of the hall. When the dedication ceremony ended, the fishmonger suddenly vanished into thin air. The emperor was not surprised at this as he had expected something miraculous to happen because of his dream. He asked his attendants to check the bamboo basket whis was still there. To their surprise, theu found eighty volumes of the Flower Garland Sutra in place of the mackarel. The local folk to this day beleive that the Buddha hiself had appeared to see through the ceremony.

It was March 14, 752 CE. From that day on, the emperor designated that day for an annual religious service called the “Flower Garland Sutra” service. And so the story was passed on through the ages.

At the entrance to the main temple building that houses the massive Daibutsu, lies another urn where you can light incense sticks and pray before entering. We paid our respects in front of the incense burning urn before entering the ancient building.

The massive building is somewhat darker inside with a pleasant smell of the incense. Inside lies one of Japan’s largest bronze statues of Buddha. The 15 meter tall Buddha represents Vairocana and is flanked by two Bodhisattvas.

After achieving enlightenment in what is now the small town of Bodh Gaya in Bihar, northern India, Buddha sat for a week in deep meditation and it is this pose that is represented in the giant statue. The current sitting Buddha statue is 72 feet high, weighs over 550 tons, and is covered with almost 130 Kg of gold.

To build such a large statue and buildings, workers had to dig down 2.5 meters over a 90 meters by 60 meter area, larger than a football field – just to find firm ground. Concrete-like layers of clay, ballast and sand were then placed on the firm ground similar to how the foundations of the Great Wall of China was built.

The Todai-ji Buddha has been severely damaged over the years. In one such instance in the ninth century, its head was knocked down during an earthquake. On two separate occasions, first in 1180, and again in 1567, its right hand melted in a fire that also ravaged the temple. The body of the statue was reconstructed in 1185, and the head rebuilt in 1692. The present statue is said to be only two thirds the size of the original.

Todai-ji’s Indian Connection

Todai-ji also has a strong connection with India, my home country. At the time, the Great Buddha and the Todai-ji were erected, many Indian monks were residing in China, teaching Dhamma and translating Buddhist scriptures into Chinese. In 730 CE the Japanese envoy to the Chinese court, met Bodhisena, a Buddhist monk from south India, and invited him to visit Japan.

After a long journey, Bodhisena and his fellow monks arrived in Osaka and later moved to Nara in the year 736. The monk Bodhisena helped spread the use of Sanskrit and establish Huayan Buddhism in the country. On the invitation of Emperor Shomu, when the temple was inaugurated, Monk Bodhisena took a huge brush and filled in the pupil of the eyes of the Great Buddha.

To the left and right of Buddha lies an image of Nyoirin Kannon; one of the 33 forms of Kannon (Guānyīn/ Avalokiteśvara, the bodhisattva of compassionate mercy). Nyoirin Kannon, the bodhisattva of the jewel and the wheel, presides over the six realms of karmic rebirth. The statues were added in the Heian period. These eighth-century statues at Todai-ji can be considered undisputed landmarks in the development of Japanese sculpture.

Here in a corner you can find a replica of the golden horn-shaped decorative roof piece that adorns the roof of Todai-ji, known as Shibi. These tail-shaped roof ornaments were first used in China, and became popular in Japan in the Asuka and Hakuhō periods (552 – 710).

They were positioned on the main ridge of temples and palaces, and were thought to provide protection against fire. Japan’s oldest Shibi can be found at Tōshōdaiji Temple in Nara and are dated to the 8th century.

As we walked towards the back, in the clockwise direction, there lies two towering 30-foot-high wooden statues of warriors. The first one we approached was the Kōmokuten (広目天). He is referred to as the King of the West. He is a Hindu deity incorporated into Buddhism as one of the four Shintennō, a group of fierce-looking guardian deities who protect the four cardinal directions of Buddha’s realm. The four are typically placed around the central deity on Buddhist altars. Kōmokuten protects the western quarter. Like the other members of the Shintennō group, Kōmokuten is typically dressed in armor and stands atop a demon.

The Kōmokuten are generally depicted holding a writing brush in right hand and a sutra in left – symbolizing the power of Buddha’s teachings to overcome ignorance, evil, and all obstacles.

On the other corner of the hall lies the Tamon-ten (多聞天). He is said to be the most powerful of the four Shitennō, with the other three serving as his vassals.

Tamon-ten protects holy places and places where Buddha expounds the teachings. He is generally depicted carrying a pagoda-shaped treasure house in his right hand (from which he gives wealth to only “the worthy”) and holding a spear with his left hand to ward off distractions. He is also believed to have a deadly dragon breadth which is why he always stands with his mouth shut.

In-between the two statues, towards the back of the Daibutsuden Hall, several detailed miniature models of the former buildings are on display.

Another popular attraction inside the hall is a pillar with a hole in its base. It is said that those who can squeeze through this opening will be granted enlightenment in their next life. Quite a few kids were going through in there. I had no chance but I did notice some adult Japanese trying their utmost and succeeding.

We went around a full circle around the Buddha statue and came up to the exit. Several souvenir shops can be found near the exit where they sell charms, hand-beads and other souvenirs.

Outside the hall, to the right of the temple is a wooden statue of Binzuru Pindola Bharadvaja, seated in the lotus position. One of 16 Arhats designated by the Buddha Sakyamuni at his death to keep spreading his teachings. There is a belief that the statue has a gift of healing. if one touches a part of the Pindola in the same part of his body where they have any health concern, it would get cured right away.

On a lighter note, because of its positioning, you cannot reach the back of the statue, so people with back problems can stay away!

According to local stories, one day, the Buddha asked Binzuru to visit a wealthy man whose family was plagued by evil spirits with simple instructions to exorcise the spirits. Binzuru banished the demons in the house. The wealthy man, being grateful, wanted to celebrate. After repeated offers of the drink, Binzuru capitulated to have one as not to be rude to his host. It was not long before he was all drunk and the spirits returned.

Buddha, hearing of this, banished Binzuru from his company. Binzuru, filled with regret, followed the Buddha around the country and sat outside the Buddha’s tent to hear his sermons. On his deathbed, Buddha, acknowledging his loyalty, called for Binzuru and forgave him. He commanded Binzuru to remain in the world as a healer. Binzuru thus always sits outside the temple, so people come to him to ease their suffering.

As we walked out, I noticed many omikuji tied along wooden posts. The omikuji are random fortunes written on white strips of paper at Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples in Japan. When people receive a negative forecast they tend to tie the omikuji at the temple to ward off the negative fortune.

It was truly a memorable experience visiting Todai-ji. I may not be a religious person but I love the wonderful tales these historic places tell.

We wandered around Nara Park all day spending some time at the Kasuga Taisha. The area also has some wonderful restaurants where you can indulge in local delicacies. In the evening, we went down to Ukimido to capture the lovely pavilion in the vivid colors of sunset. Once it was dark and the street lights began to come on, surrounding us in a romantic light, as we walked back towards the city.

I went back to Nara Park various times to capture the heritage site during the night. During these late hours, visitors are comparatively much fewer and it is easier to photograph these mesmerizing structures.

Todai-ji at Night

If you can come back in the evening, the park looks completely different. Late in the evening, the temple grounds close, but the gates around the park are brightly lit up. Apart from one or two people, the area is generally devoid of tourists. With no tourists around to feed them, the deer wander away down to the meadows to graze. This is the Nandai-mon Gate at night.

Past the  Nandai-mon Gate, I took some more shots of the main temple entrance gate.

A few paces to the east, the Todai-ji was also looking beautiful overlooking the Kagami-ike pond. It is because of this beautiful reflection on the surface of the pond that gets its name Kagami-ike or ‘mirror lake.’

You can find more pictures of the Todai-ji temple when I visited it on New Year’s Eve when the main hall is opened to the public even during the night.

Admission Timings

Apr – Oct : 7:30 – 17:30
Nov – Mar : 8:00 – 17:00

Admission Fees

Adult ¥600

Built

752 CE

Built by

Emperor Shomu

On the trail of the Ninjas of Iga Ueno

It was a grey Sunday. The clouds had enveloped Nara and everything appeared gloomy. We had plans for Kyoto but seeing the depressing weather, we decided to go a bit far to escape the elements and thus the plan to visit the Ninja town of Iga Ueno came to happen.

Iga Ueno is a small town located in mountains of western Mie. It is particularly famous as the birthplace of the Iga Ninja spies & the art of Ninjutsu, but it also hides within its boundaries a few other secrets.

The origins of the Ninja is somewhat shrouded in secrecy. The art was practiced by the Shinobi or Ninja that rose to prominence during Japan’s Sengoku period in the 14th-century, but then some records also show the practice to be around as early as the Heian Era (794 CE to 1185 CE).

Ninjutsu is a systemized art of warfare used by the Ninjas, for the specific purpose of espionage. Ninjutsu developed mainly in the regions of Iga in Mie Prefecture, and Koka in Shiga Prefecture in Japan. In the village of Iga, Ninjas honed their unique skills using psychology and pharmacology, combined with martial arts.

The Ninjas would infiltrate into the enemy’s ranks, undetected using their special skills, mostly with the objectives of scouting, and obtaining valuable information. Point to note that they were predominantly spies and not warriors.

Did you know that Ninjas have been known by different names during different periods of Japanese history. Today we know them as Ninjas, because that name stuck and became popular in the Western world.

Nara to Iga Ueno

To go to Iga Ueno from Nara, one has to catch a train from JR Nara Station to Kamo Station and then switch to a local train to Iga-Ueno Station. The route should be the same if you are coming from Osaka or Kyoto.

Tickets for the full length of the travel can be purchased at one go. It cost us ¥670 per head. The platforms have information boards in English as well Japanese, so it was not difficult to follow the instructions.

The ride to Kamo was uneventful. The lush paddy fields looked lifeless in the constant drizzle. At Kamo Station, a blue colored, two coach train was waiting for us. This connecting train would take us all the way to Iga Ueno.

The rain had relented by then, leaving behind a mysterious mist. A large group of kids dressed in scout uniforms joined us on the train bringing some cheer to the otherwise mundane coach.

After Kamo, the train tracks run parallel to the Yasu River. The ride through this part of Mie Prefecture is very-picturesque. It felt like going into a mystical land. We chugged across several bamboo forests and then into the mountains engulfed by the thick mist.

The group of kids got down at Kasagi Station. They were probably heading for the Kasagi Camping Grounds by the Yasu River. Quite a few tents could be seen right from the train windows, set up on the edges of the river bed.

We reached Iga Ueno Station by noon. The skies had cleared up a bit, but it was still gray all around. The outside of the station was desolate with not a person in sight. You can find a bike rental just beside the station, if you are interested. The staff at the station was very helpful. They provided us a map with directions and helpful markings, towards Ueno Castle.

If you are coming by train get down at Uenoshi Station which is located a mere five to ten minute walk from Ueno Castle.

The castle is about 3 km away from the station. It was going to be a long walk, but it was fun walking in the cool breeze, chatting away with my wife, Mani. Coming from a crowded country like India, it felt a bit strange seeing absolutely no people around. Even the petrol pump we passed was unmanned. Time and again a car would pass us by, and that was it.

A few minutes into the walk, a car stopped and an elderly lady walked out towards us. She offered us a ride to our destination, but we politely declined, as it was much more interesting walking nonchalantly past this desolate yet beautiful suburb. She was the only person I would see for the rest of the way.

Midway to the castle, we crossed the bridge over Hattori river. Hattori Hanzo is one of the most famous Ninja Grandmaster from Iga. The river was named after him.

A few minutes after passing the bridge, we found ourselves near a field of Cosmos flowers. Cosmos is the seasonal word for “autumn” in Japan. It’s Kanji “秋桜” means “autumn cherry blossom”. Fields of cosmos can be seen in many places in Japan because they are easy to grow as long as they get a lot of sunshine.

Just before the entrance to the castle park, we stumbled upon an orange colored post box. I haven’t seen one like these in India for quite some time now. It lends a nostalgic feel to the surrounding along with the old wooden houses.

The history of Japan’s mail box began in 1871. Over the years, predominantly in the urban areas, its shape has changed into a rectangular box shape and seeing this original version, felt like we were transported to a medieval world.

After walking some 40 odd-minutes from the station, we were finally at the Ueno Castle grounds. The area surrounding the castle is a park, and the atmosphere is very relaxing. Tall trees decorate the path all the way up to the castle.

The sidewalks were littered with acorns fallen from the trees. I picked up some for feeding them to the Shika deer in Nara Park. With no one to point us in the right direction, we just kept following the map.

Ueno Castle, Iga

After the moat, a winding stone staircase leads you up to the Castle. After the morning showers, the old stone steps were wet and had moss growing at the edges. It was quite slippery to walk so we took our time as neither of us were in a hurry.

At the end of the stairs, you can find the looming castle surrounded by Momiji trees. Unlike numerous other Japanese castles which were recreated in the twentieth century utilizing concrete, Iga Ueno Castle was revamped with wood just, giving it a wonderful, unique look and environment.

Construction on Iga Ueno Castle began in 1585 CE on the command of Takigawa Katsutoshi. His successor Tsutsui Sadatsugu built the honmaru and three level main keep. After the Battle of Sekigahara (1608), Sadatsugu’s lands were confiscated by the Tokugawa and given to Todo Takatora. Todo Takatora renovated the Honmaru, increasing the walls height to 30-meters, to fortify the defenses against any resurgence by Sadatsugu’s followers, which to this day remains the tallest among all castles in Japan.

We sat on a bench in front of the castle for some time staring at one of the most beautiful architecture, I have laid my eyes upon in recent times. Because of its pure white color and mesmerizing beauty, the castle is also known as “Hakuho” or “White Phoenix Castle.”

Todo Takatora’s main keep was originally never completed, so the current keep was created using designs from nearby structures.

Exhibits at Iga Ueno Castle

Iga Ueno Castle was designated as a national treasure in 1967. The castle has three floors, with historical artifacts displayed on each floor. The ticket booth in inside the castle on the first floor. Admission tickets cost us ¥500 each. Before you enter the castle, you will have to leave your shoes at the shoe stall near the entrance to the Hall. The first floor exhibits various armor and weapons used in battle.

The most important of the exhibits is a seated model of Todo Takatora and his famous hat, which is on display both as a replica, as well as the original behind a glass case. Just in case you’re wondering, Todo Takatora was the successor of Tsutsui Sadatsugu.

As an innovative architect for many castles, Takatora developed techniques for building bigger, stronger, cheaper Sotogata type tenshu keeps, being much faster and cheaper to build than the traditional Borogata style keeps. His castles were also famed for their steep, high walls, particularly those of Iga Ueno Castle. He also perfected the Masugata type, or Death Box of gate systems, greatly strengthening the defense of the many castles he designed.

Visitors can see the intricate details of traditional body armor and battle helmets up close as they walk through the exhibition room. Fortunately photography is allowed inside.

A sujikabuto is a type of helmet that occurred in the late Kamakura period and the Northern and Southern eras of Japan. Unlike a star helmet, it does not show the studs that hold the iron plates that form the helmet body, but twists the edges of the iron plates to make the joints look like streaks.

You can also find a miniature model of the Iga Ueno Castle among the exhibits.

Below you can find a couple of wakizashi swords on display at the museum. The wakizashi has a blade between 30 and 60 cm. The katana was the big or long sword and the wakizashi the “little” or companion sword. It being carried together with the katana was the official sign that the wearer was a samurai or swordsman.

The wakizashi is a traditionally made Japanese sword worn by the samurai in feudal Japan

Iga-yaki

An extremely narrow wooden staircase leads up to the second floor. This floor displays ceramic utensils from the Edo Period (1603-1868). Iga has a long history with ceramics and its utensils referred to as Iga yaki have come to be loved by many masters of the tea ceremony.

The history of Japanese ceramics began with Jomon earthenware, followed by Yayoi (300 BCE – 250 CE) and later in the Kofun period (300 CE to 538 CE) the technique was succeeded by Hajiware and haniwa terracotta figures. Iga yaki is a specially referred to the porcelain produced in this area, surrounding the city of Iga.

In ancient times, the ever-popular Lake Biwa, which is now limited to the Shiga prefecture, used to extended all the way to Iga. Over centuries, even though the lake gradually receded from the area, it left behind its rich clay. This clay fostered the production of Iga yaki, an art of earth and fire that has withstood the test of time.

Iga ware’s origins are believed to date to the second half of the 7th century and 8th century CE, during the Nara period (710-794). Shigaraki and Iga, which are adjacent to each other have had a close relationship since the medieval period in terms of pottery styles. Back then, there was not a significant difference between Iga ware and Shiga-raki styles. It was often said that there are “Handles on Iga, no handles on Shigaraki,” since the handle was almost the only difference that distinguished the products of the two localities.

The items baked at the time were mainly mortars and pots. These early Iga ware is referred to as “old Iga” (Ko-Iga). These usually had wavelike patterns made by spatula scraping or stamped lattice patterns.

The main point of divergence from Iga-ware came during the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1574–1600), when tea ceremony culture was also flourishing. Many distinctive pieces of Iga ware were produced at this time, including pieces with wave-like patterns that were created using spatulas or a technique of deliberately breaking the piece by hand to generate an “out-of-tune beauty”.

Characteristically, Iga ware has a asymmetrical beauty created by deliberately distorting well-shaped forms and making each piece unique. This style of Iga-ware was backed by Tsutsui Sadatsugu, feudal lord of what was then Iga province, and Takatora Todo, also a feudal lord. These kinds of pieces were particularly prized in tea ceremonies for the sense of wabi-sabi they evoked. The most well-known kilns were at Makiyama and Marubashira, in the Ayama district of Iga city.

Iga ware uses local clay which is extremely resistant to heat, reacts well to repeated firing, and is fired over three days in a kiln dug into the ground. The clay tends to have a high level of hardness and is created on a pottery wheel. The potter delicately uses a spatula to give curvature. This distinctive curve lets the flames lick over the round edge. Furthermore, tiny pebbles in the clay give it additional surface texture.

The surface texture of Iga ware comes about from the long firing at high temperatures whereby the ashes fall on the pots and turn a glassy green. Features such as ash glaze, black scorching, and cracks can all be seen as natural effects of the firing process. The reddish color of Iga ware is a result of the red flames hitting the grainy stone textured clay in the kiln. When moistened, the glassy green glaze on these vessels glistens, heightening the taste of foods or sake.

The lugs on an Iga ware vase are called “ears” (mimitsuki). Vases tend to be made out of rough clay, sometimes with tiny white stones added. In the past these were kneaded by hand, which gave it a distorted form and thus character, but later production by wheel also developed.

Iga-ware does not use applied glaze. Instead it is fired at a very high temperature in a kiln causing it to crystallize in a reddish hue, often with brown-grey scorch marks caused by log ashes called koge, and a translucent green ash glaze from the burning wood forms. This occurs when firewood ash melts at 1400 Celsius.

Since they are free of impurities, a clear jade translucent glass called biidoro is created. Sometimes the biidoro glass coagulates to form a globule called a “dragonfly eye.” The clay’s durability means it can be fired multiple times without cracking, sometimes up to three times. The ash glaze builds up in layers and produces a translucence which does not form in modern gas-fired kilns.

The walls on this level contain pictures of some of the most important castles in Japan. While Mani was checking out the artifacts, I was taking mental notes of the castles I must visit on my next trip to Japan. From here a wooden staircase leads to the observatory on the third floor where visitors can gaze upon the whole town.

It was a bit early for the Fall, but in the mountains, the leaves had already started to change color.

Iga-ryu Ninja House

After coming out of the Castle, we walked around on the grounds. We came across a souvenir shop. It was a bit crowded, so we decided to come back to it later. A few meters beyond the shop we reached the Ninja House. Tickets to the Ninja House costs ¥700 each. They organize an immersive Ninja martial art demonstration for visitors.

The Iga-ryu Ninja House is maintained by actual descendants of Ninjas. The innocuous house is full of smart contraptions, such as trick doors (Shikakedo), secret passages (Nukemichi) and even false floors to hide weapons. A lady guide, dressed as Kunoichi (female ninja), demonstrated to us how these were used by the Ninjas to avoid conflict or overpower stronger foes.

Room by room, the lady showed us how the Ninjas set up hidden traps in preparation for enemy attacks. Ordinary-looking walls that revolve so Ninjas could hide behind to attack unsuspecting enemies. Hidden escape routes that secretly lead outside of the house. It was fun!

The annual “Iga Ueno Ninja Festa” is held from 1st April to 4th May. During that time the city comes to life with many exhibits, competitions and the opportunity for the visitors to practice their Ninja skills.

Iga-ryu Ninja Museum

After the marvelous show at Ninja House, we walked towards the Ninja Tradition Hall. The Ninja Tradition Hall is a place where visitors can learn about the history of Ninja and look at documents and other materials. In the hall, various tools are displayed, including weapons, code books and gunpowder.

I found some peasant dolls near the entrance. If you are interested in Japanese dolls, try to visit the Saitama Doll Museum.

Here we can see various types of weapons on display, that the Ninjas used. Makibishi are sharp spiked objects that were used in feudal Japan by the Ninjas to slow down pursuers. These iron caltrops could penetrate the thin soles of the shoes such as the waraji sandals that were commonly worn in feudal Japan.

The most popular, Shuriken (throwing blades) are on display here. Also known as throwing stars or ninja stars, the Shuriken were originally designed in many different shapes.

These weapons were thrown to inflict a wound on the enemy. Ninjas used to poison the edges of the blade of Shuriken to make it more potent. Although the range of Shuriken is short about 6 to 7 meter with an expert, it could be said that Shuriken was an excellent weapon in times of eluding pursuit.

You can also find the Sojin-gama tools here. The Sojin-gama was originally a farming tool but could easily double up as a weapon. Because of its use in farming, Ninjas could move around with it without arousing any suspicion.

Here we see a Mizugumo on display. The devices were worn on the feet to walk on water. However it was not really meant for walking on water but though marshy areas where regular shoes would stick in the mud .

Towards the end of the hall is the museum shop, Ninjabo. They sell various ninja goods, including ninja stars. We bought some souvenirs from here.

On our way back we stopped at a Ramen shop for lunch at the Aikat-tei restaurant. The restaurant lies inside the castle grounds near the museum.

After lunch we walked across to the souvenir shop and bought a few gifts. We wandered around the grounds for a bit and then started on the long walk back to the Iga Ueno Station. The old, meandering streets were still very empty, which was kind of nice as we could enjoy the old houses without the usual crowds.

On the way we stopped for a bit at a Mall along the road. I bought some Meiji chocolates for gifting friends in India and then we were back on the road to the train station. As we walked past the Hattori river, it was looking lovely in the dying sunlight.

The clouds had gathered again. The sun was fighting with the thick clouds to take a peep at the Earth by the time we reached the station. The local trains are scheduled every hour, so we had to wait for a while before the train came along.

From the train, I took some beautiful dusk shots as we headed back to Nara.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit the home of Buddha – Todai-ji.

Built

1585 CE

Built by

Tsutsui Sadatsugu

Admission Fees

¥ 500  (Castle only)
¥ 1500 yen (Castle, Ninja Museum and Danjiri Kaikan)

Which is the nearest station to Iga Ueno Castle

Ueno Castle is located a five to ten minute walk north of Uenoshi Station.

Hanging out in Kyoto

Weekend was finally here. I had been slugging long nights working during US business hours and needed a break badly. We had been planning to visit Kyoto during one of the extended weekends but it was impossible to get a hotel booking. Eventually we decided to just go, roam around and come back the same day. Its hardly an hour away anyways, less if one uses the Limited Express trains.

We got up early, had a light breakfast and walked down to Kintetsu Nara Station. We caught the Limited Express to Kyoto, it cost us ¥ 1300 each. You can also catch a train from JR Nara Statation, whichever is closest to you. Its almost double of the local train, but being an express train, its about 20 minutes faster.

The train arrived in a few minutes. The seat numbers and the platform were printed on the ticket, so we didn’t face any difficulty boarding the train. The Kintetsu Nara Station is underground. The train rose above the ground a few minutes into the journey. It cruised past most stations only stopping at a handful and were in Kyoto in 35 minutes.

Day tour of Kyoto

Nara is a quiet city. Coming from there, I was taken aback by the bustling crowd at Kyoto Station. We walked down to the Information Center. A guy at the counter gave us a map and a bus information sheet. The sheet contained various permutations for sightseeing the interesting places in Kyoto along with respective Bus numbers. He also provided us with an all day bus pass for ¥ 500 each.

Nijo Castle

The first stop on our route was Nijo Castle. It takes around 20 minutes to reach the castle from Kyoto Station. As we got down, I was a bit disappointed seeing the entrance gate covered up for repairs. Thankfully it was only the front gate that was being repaired. The admission tickets cost ¥ 600 per person. A wide gravel path took us towards the main gate of Ninomaru Palace inside the castle.

Nijo-jo is a flat land castle. It was constructed in 1603 CE as the residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokugawa Ieyasu(1542-1616) was the founder and first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan. The castle consists of two concentric rings of fortifications, the Ninomaru Palace and the ruins of the Honmaru Palace.

The sun was playing hide & seek. We stood near the beautifully crafted gate decorated with lavish quantities of gold leaf and elaborate wood carvings trying to get a clear shot of the gate. Eventually we surrendered to the steady flow of people and went inside the Ninomaru Palace. One has to take off their shoes to go inside the palace. Photography is not allowed inside.

The Ninomaru Palace is famous for its “nightingale floors” which were designed to squeak when stepped on and thus alert guards to any intruders. Inside, we came across a huge room with  life-size sculptures depicting the shogun meeting the warlords (Daimyo). The Ninomaru Palace contains gorgeous paintings on the walls. They are painted in rich colors depicting flowers, trees, birds and tigers. I was surprised not to see a single furniture in any of the chambers. Mani reminded me, the Japanese didn’t use any, in ancient times.

As we went deeper inside the castle, I observed some of smaller chambers were painted differently. A plaque before us told us that the shogun used to have different guest chambers for each season. Each of these chambers were painted differently, to give a feel of that particular season. These paintings are said to be created by the revered artist Kano and his sons.

After touring the Ninomaru Palace, we took a leisurely stroll through the wonderful Seiryu-en Garden, which surrounds the castle. The castle grounds houses a beautiful rock pond with a tiny waterfall.

A narrow path led us to a bigger garden with groves of plum and cherry trees. Another deep moat surrounds the remains of the Honmaru Palace. A stone bridge over the moat went inside the castle.

I wanted to roam around a bit more on the grounds, so we didn’t go inside. We circled around the castle and reached the rear gate. The rear gate was huge, with thick wooden doors.

Past the stone walls, a staircase leads to a high lookout point. From here one can keep a good watch over the inside moat and the gardens.

We roamed around in the garden for some time and then headed back to the bus stop for Kinkaku-ji.

Opening hours:
8.45am-5pm, last entry 4pm

Closed:
Tuesdays in December, January, July, August, and December 26 – January 4

Admission:
Adults: 600 Yen

Kinkaku-ji

The bus dropped us off in front of the temple. We were hungry from all the walking so we sauntered down the road looking for an eatery. There are rows of restaurants. Mani wanted to have Soba Udon so we hunted around a bit for one that served. After a warm light lunch, we walked back towards  Kinkaku-ji.

Kinkaku-ji was built in 1393 CE as a retirement villa for Shogun Yoshimitsu Ashikaga (1358-1409). He intended to cover the exterior with gold, but only managed to coat the ceiling of the third floor with gold leaf before his death. The shogun lived here in luxury as Kyoto’s people suffered from severe famine, earthquakes and plague. After Yoshimitsu’s death, as indicated in his will, the building, officially named Rokuon-ji was converted into a temple of the Zen sect of Buddhism.

Kinkaku-ji burned down several times during the Onin War. In 1950, the Golden Pavilion got burned again, this time by a fanatical monk. The present temple structure dates from 1955, which was rebuilt true to the original except for a significant enhancement: both upper stories are covered in gold leaf, in accordance with Ashikaga’s original intentions. In 1987, the temple was re-covered in gold leaf five times thicker than the original coating. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage, Kinkaku-ji is one of the historical buildings most representative of Japan.

As we neared the temple the crowd also grew. Kinkaku-ji must be on everyone’s “must-see” list. This was the only place where we had to get in a queue for admission tickets. The entrance was packed with hoards of tourists. As we went inside I was finding it difficult to even move freely, such was the crowd. A few meters inside I understood why!

My eyes transfixed on the Golden Pavilion (kinka-ku), sitting picturesquely in its garden at the edge of a lake. The pavilion extends partially over the pond and is beautifully reflected in the calm waters from here. I slowly pushed and shoved till I was able to reach the railing overseeing the lake. We stood there admiring one of the most beautiful sights in Kyoto. No wonder there is so much crowd!

We walked up the path getting closer to the temple. The wooden pavilion has three stories surrounded by balconies, the upper two of which are completely covered in gleaming gold leaf. The shogun only managed to gild the interior ceiling, but he always intended to cover the outside as well. In addition to its worldly treasure, Kinkaku-ji is highly valuable because it is a shariden, housing relics of the Buddha. The first floor of the pavilion, known as the Hôsuiin (“Temple of Dharma Water”), is built in the shinden style  associated with 11th-century Heian nobility. The walls separating it from the balcony only rise half-way, allowing plenty of light and fresh air into the room.

The second story, called the Chôondô (“Tower of Sound Waves”), is built in the buke style of samurai houses. It houses a statue of Kannon. The third floor of Kinkaku-ji is built in the style of a Buddha Hall in a Zen temple and is known as the Kukkyocho. It has round-headed windows and is more richly ornamented than the other floors. Inside, it shelters an Amida triad and 25 Bodhisattvas. The roof is topped with a golden Chinese phoenix.

As we walked towards the back, I saw a rock garden called Kyoko-chi, surrounded by the pond with Koi fishes swimming in abundance. We walked around the temple grounds. At the back there are few souvenir stalls. Some locals were selling crackers and wasabi nuts. I just love Wasabi Nuts! It was a wonderful experience at Kinkaku-ji, but I would have preferred less crowds. It was early evening and we hurried towards our next stop.

Opening hours:
9.00am-5pm, last entry 4pm

Closed:
Open all days

Admission:
Adults: 400 Yen

Kiyomizu-dera

We were a bit out of time, so we skipped Ginkakuji and headed straight to Kiyomizu-dera. On the way we passed Gion. Mani wanted to go there, we plan to go there next time we are in Kyoto. It was almost 4 by the time we reached Kiyomizu-dera bus stop. It’s a long walk to the temple. The narrow alley is lined with sweet & souvenir shops. Hundreds of girls in kimono going up the path. It was like a festival.

Kiyomizu-dera, officially Otowa-san Kiyomizu-dera is an independent Buddhist temple in eastern Kyoto. The platform of the main hall, which is supported by 139 giant pillars.

Located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the eastern part of Kyoto City, Kiyomizu-dera is a historic temple that was established in 778 AD. Since its inception, the temple has burned down many times. Most of the current buildings were rebuilt by the third Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in the early Edo period.

The Main Hall (Hondo) of the temple is designated as a national treasure. The temple has many other important cultural properties including the Deva gate, west gate, three-storied pagoda and bell tower. In 1994, it was registered on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List as one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.

The two most famous places of the temple are the Main Hall, where the Eleven Headed and Thousand Armed Kannon Bodhisattva – which is famous for the power of answering prayers – is enshrined and Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a precipice which affords a spectacular view of the town of Kyoto. Along the ravine to the south of the main hall grow cherry and maple trees. This temple is known for its cherry blossoms in the spring, and its red leaves during the fall.

Kiyomizu-dera (the temple of clear water) was named after Otowa Waterfall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been falling there since its foundation. We went down to the Otowa-no-taki, the waterfall where visitors drink for health, longevity, and success in studies. Many visitors had lined up for same and a small queue had built up. After taking a sip of the cold Otowa water we headed towards the three-storied pagoda. In the failing light, the crowd had petered down and we were able to get some good pictures of the pagoda.

It gets dark very early in Japan. By 5 p.m. it was already very dark. We head back to the bus stop. One the way we stopped for some shopping. The shops were closing down fast. In the little time we got, Mani bought me a Yukata. We also bought a pack of  local sweets. While walking back, a guy was selling cuttlefish tempura. It was a bit cold and I totally enjoyed the warm fish.

The bus back to Kyoto Station was extremely crowded. I haven’t been on such a crowded bus since my younger days when I used to go to office in Kolkata.

We took the regular train to Nara. Its cheaper by half (670 Yen), though it took us around an hour to reach Nara. There are days and this was one of “those” days. It was memorable to visit Kinkaku-ji, watching the girls in Kimono on the streets leading to Kiyomizu-dera, and lovely Japanese food.. I sure am having the time of my life 🙂

Opening hours:
6.00am-6pm, last entry 4pm (closing time differs according to the season: http://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/lang/01.html#menu02)

Closed:
Open all days

Admission:
Adults: 300 Yen

Photo Walk to Kasuga Taisha

The sun was shining again and I didn’t want to miss out on an opportunity to explore Kasuga Taisha. We had missed going inside the shrine on the day we went for a walk in the Nara Deer Park and it looked like a lovely day to fix it.

Kasuga Taisha was built in 768 CE by Lord Fujiwara, by the order of Emperor Shotoku. It enshrines four gods from important shrines around the country. From the 8th century, as the Fujiwara dynasty grew in clout, the Kasuga shrine also prospered. Kasuga Taisha became so powerful that even Emperors came to worship here. During that time, the Fujiwara clan wielded such huge amount of political influence that some emperors even married daughters from this clan.

I had stashed up a handful of acorns the day before when I was at Toshodaiji. As I walked past the Deer park, herds came running towards me with needy smiles. After feeding them, I sat in the park for a few minutes with my camera bag doubling up as a back pillow.

The deer gleefully loitered in the verdant greens, munching on the soft grass. It was funny sometimes as they would head-butt the visitors with senbei in their hands and chase them around the park.

The males would keep an eye on the females and if anyone wandered too far they would run after them screeching at them to rejoin the herd.

After an hour of lazying in the soft sun, I started towards the Kasuga Taisha shrine. The road to the shrine goes through a truly primordial forest. The wide gravel path is lined on both sides with hundreds of moss-covered stone lanterns. These lanterns numbering around 2000, are lit during Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August, which must be an awe-inspiring sight.

At the gate, a pair of Shishi, lion-dogs stood guard. The lion-dogs also called Koma-inu, traditionally stand guard outside the gates of most Japanese Shinto shrines. In contrast, the Buddhist temples are typically guarded by the Nio Protectors. As guardians outside the shrine gate, one Shishi is depicted with its mouth open, to scare off demons, and the other with its mouth closed, to shelter the good spirits.

A few minutes up the path is the main entrance. The whole shrine is painted in bright red with green accents. I stood near the entrance to get a clean shot without people, but they just kept streaming in. The priestesses were dressed in lovely red & white Kimono. Near the shops, you can find some ema wood planks hanging with prayers from the visitors.

Near the gate the fortune-telling stalls were doing good business. The outer area is free, but to enter the shrine, one has to pay an admission fee. After waiting for some time, once the crowd thinned out, I went to the admission booth. The ticket cost me ¥500. Inside the path is marked with arrows for tourists.

While outside all lanterns are made from stone, the ones inside are cast in bronze. Some of them are covered with gold leaf. The architecture of the Shrine is known as the “Kasuga style” due to the unique shape of its roof.  

According to Japanese Shinto rituals, shrines were generally destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years for purification. So, technically the current structure as of today is the 57th Kasuga Shrine, an exact reconstruction based on the original layout.

Main Lantern

The first hall I walked into was the prayer room or Kyojyo. A priest was reciting Sutras. Shinto worship is highly ritualized, and follows strict conventions of protocol, order and control.

Past the prayer room, I reached a corridor lined with many bronze lanterns.

At the far end of the corridor was a closed room. The room was dark and dimly lit by the lanterns. It was an un-earthly experience inside the room. I had to really crank up the ISO to take this shot.

I circled back towards the front area. There I found many more golden lanterns hanging in a neat row.

To the left of the front building was another path. I followed it towards the back of the shrine.

There are a couple of smaller shrines towards the back, surrounded by thick green grove. I walked around taking some pictures.

It was evening and time for me to head back to the university cafeteria for an early dinner.

Admission Timings

6:00 to 18:00 (April to September)
6:30 to 17:30 (October to March)

Admission Fees

¥ Free (outer area)
500 Yen (inner area)

Built

768 CE

Built by

Lord Fujiwara, by the order of Emperor Shotoku

Exploring the Yakushi-ji Temple

After spending a couple of hours in the peaceful gardens of Toshodai-ji, I walked down to Yakushi-ji using Google Maps as my guide. It led me along a narrow path along a Canal. The water flowing in the Canal was sparkling clear. I cannot in my wildest dream think of such clean flowing water in Kolkata (my hometown).

I trudged along the path at a leisurely pace. At the first intersection, I asked a traffic cop for directions who directed me towards the gate of the temple. While walking towards the Yakushi-ji temple, I happened to see a lovely courtyard on my right and I went in to take a look.

Genjo Sanzoin Garan, Yakushi-ji

The signboard was in Japanese and the paper map I had from the tourism office did not contain any mention of this place. At the end of the courtyard was a beautiful gate. As I walked nearer to the gate I saw an admission booth at the end of the courtyard. The guy at the counter was of little help when I asked about the place, but he did understand “Yakushi-ji” and offered me a ticket to go inside. From the ticket, I realized that it was the Genjo Sanzo Complex. Priced at ¥1100, the admission ticket to Genjo Sanzo Complex also includes entry to the Yakushi-ji temple grounds.

It was a working day and thankfully the crowd was a lot less compared to Nara Park

In the center of the walled structure is a two-storey red pagoda. The corridors surrounding the pagoda were decorated with Bonsai trees. Along with the tiny trees, the exhibit also featured some beautiful Ikebana (Japanese flower arrangement) flowers.

Towards the end of the passage, in a covered area, I was found some 6 foot high paintings featuring the various places Hiuen Tsang visited on his journey, that culminated with him reaching Nalanda. Ikuo Hirayama, a famous Japanese-style painter is credited for creating these enriching wall paintings. Photography of the paintings was prohibited.

On my way back I was clicking some photos of the red Pagoda when a Japanese guy, approached me. I don’t recall his name but he was quite friendly and we got into a conversation. I told him I was from India. In his broken English and lot of app translation, he made me aware of the Hiuen Tsang connection. Tsang is also known by the name of Genjo Sanzo.

Note: Genjo-Sanzoin is opened only from Jan.1-5, Mar.1-Jun.15, Sep.16-Nov.25

Hiuen Tsang

The Genjo Sanzoin Garan(薬師寺玄奘三蔵院伽藍) was built in honor of Hiuen Tsang (Xuanzang in Chinese, 602-664) , who traveled to India in around 632 CE to seeking learn more about Buddhism. His travels along the Silk Route is something I studied with great zeal as a child. His visit to India was an important event during the reign of king Harshavardhana. We are much indebted to this Chinese traveler for the valuable accounts he left behind, detailing the political, religious, economic, social conditions of those times.

He spent around five years studying Buddhism at the University of Nalanda. He brought from India about 20,000 scrolls of sutras and dedicated his life to translating about 13,000 of them. No mean achievement. For his contribution, a memorial hall was dedicated to him at Nalanda in Bihar, that I plan to visit someday. Built in 1981, the octagonal hall enshrines some remains (a few pieces of skull) of Hiuen Tsang.

It is also interesting to know how the remains of Hiuen Tsang found their way to Nara.

It was in the midst of Sino-Japanese war in 1942, when the Japanese military found Hiuen Tsang’s remains in Nanjing, China. After intense mediation between the two countries, it was settled that both share the remains and enshrine it in their respective countries. The remains were initially brought to Jionji in Saitama. Some of these ashes were later donated to Yakushi-ji in 1981 when the Genjo-Sanzoin complex was built.

Confirming the way to Yakushi-ji, I made my way towards the 9th century temple. Before leaving, I roamed around the beautiful garden of the Hiuen Tsang memorial. In the garden I noticed a couple of big black ravens, almost double the size of any I have seen before. Their crackling sounds broke through the pin-drop silence of the grounds.

Yakushi-ji Temple (薬師寺)

It didn’t take me long to reach the entrance to Yakushi-ji, it’s just opposite to the Genjo Sanzo Complex. One has to cross the road and go past the admission checkpoint. I had to show the ticket I purchased at the Genjo Sanzoin. The entry to the temple grounds goes through a small building
selling souvenirs and books. You can find many books dedicated to the history of the temple, some if English but mostly in Japanese.

History of Yakushi-ji Temple

Yakushi-ji is among Unesco’s list of “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara” World Heritage Site alongside Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha Shrine. The temple is the headquarters of the Hosso sect of Japanese Buddhism. Known as the Temple of Medicine, the construction of Yakushi-ji was commenced in 680 CE on the orders of Emperor Tenmu. It was hoped that the grand temple will aid in the recovery of the Empress from a serious illness at that time.

You might be left bewildered that this huge site was initially constructed in Asuka in south Nara, in the Fujiwara capital.

Unfortunately, during the long term of the construction, Temmu himself died and his wife acceded to the throne. For most parts of the temple, the actual construction was undertaken during her reign. In 697, the dedication ceremony for enshrining the Yakushi Nyorai was held and the temple was opened to the public.

Within just 10 years of its completion, the capital was moved to north of Nara in 710. Following this in 718, the whole Yakushi-ji compound was shifted to the current site.

As you walked into the compound, the first thing you will notice is the Kodo hall to your right. A few steps ahead on the right you will find a small building with a huge bell.

Toindo Hall of Yakushi-ji

I kept walking down on the straight path towards the Toindo Hall. Before the Toin-do Hall a temple existed here known as the Tozen-in Temple, built under the instruction of Imperial Princess Kibi during the Yoro era (717-724) to pray for the soul of her mother, Empress Genmei. The present Toin-do Hall was constructed in 1285 during the Kamakura period.

The standing statue of Sho-Kannon (Aryavalokitesvaraand from the Hakuho Period, 645-710), the Honzon of this hall, is enshrined inside Zushi (a cupboard-like case with double doors within is an image of Buddha, a sutra, or some other revered object kept at a temple) in the hall. The statue is said to retain the influence of Indian sculpture style of the Gupta Period (350-650) In the year 1733, during the Edo period, the hall was reconstructed, but facing West this time. The hall is the oldest Zen hall in Japan.

The hall also contains some Nio statues. These photos might be a bit blurry as photography was forbidden inside the hall and I used my heavy-weight 80-400 mm lens to take these.

The below idol of Jikokuten, is part of the four heavenly kings. According to temple records, it is said to be created in 1289 CE and painted in 1296. The idol poses fiercely with its feet on devils while protecting forcefully the teachings of Buddha.

Kondo Hall of Yakushi-ji

I circled around the Toindo Hall and found myself at the front gate of the Yakushi-ji temple. Yes, its a bit weird but the main entrance to the temple grounds is actually at the back.

At the gate you can see two huge warrior statues guarding the entrance on both sides. Niō (仁王) or Kongōrikishi (金剛力士) are two wrathful and muscular guardians of the Buddha standing at the entrance of most Buddhist temples in Japan.

These Nio guardians have their own interesting story. If you wish to know more, read here about the Nio Guardians.

The main hall referred to as Kondo is characterized by two illustrious pagodas on either side. The Hall houses a bronze Buddha from 697 AD. The Yakushi Nyorai, or Healing Buddha, is seated between two attendant Bodhisattvas, Nikko Bosatsu (of the sun) to the right and Gakko Bosatsu (of the moon) to left. The engravings on the pedestal where Buddha is seated seems to be a from a combination of cultures including Greece, Persia, India & China. Originally covered with gold, they now appear black due to the fire in 1528.

The statue was originally cast during the reign of Emperor Temmu in 680 and completed by Empress Jito in 697. It is the Buddha of healing who vowed to cure the disease of the mind and the body.

Note: Generally Yakushi Nyorai is depicted with a medicine pot on its left hand, but the statue in this temple does not have it.

West Pagoda at Yakushi-ji

Yakushiji temple grounds contains two pagodas. Unfortunately the East Pagoda was all covered up for repairs which is going to last till about April 2020. The East Pagoda is a National Treasure from the Hakuho Period. It is about 34 meters high. The East Pagoda (Toto) dates from around 698 AD. This pagoda, miraculously survived the fire that destroyed Yakushi-ji in 1528. It is the only surviving architecture of the Hakuho Period in Japan.

While the East Pagoda is black in color, the West one is red. The original West Pagoda burned down in 1528 and was rebuilt in 1980.

Pagoda means a grave in the Pali, the ancient Indian language

Daikodo Hall of Yakushi-ji

I walked around the back towards the Lecture Hall. The Kodo (Lecture Hall) was rebuilt in 1852. It is the largest hall in the temple grounds.

This hall enshrines Miroku Triad from the Hakuho Period flanked by two Arhats. The Miroku Nyorai is flanked by Houonrin Bosatsu (left) and Daimyoso Bosatsu (right) as you face it.

Shaka Judai Deshi Jo (Sakyamuni’s Ten Great Desciples)

Behind the sculpture of Buddha, with a thin wall dividing the room, are kept 10 idols of Arhats. The Arhats are said to be the followers of Buddha who have followed his Eightfold Path and attained the Four Stages of Enlightenment and are free of worldly cravings. These 10 Arhats formed part of the First Council in Rajagrha, where they vowed to renounce material life in order to devote themselves more effectively to the relief of human misery.

These statues were sculpted by Shinya Nakamura from Kagoshima Prefecture.

Yakushi-ji was burnt down and destroyed many times by fires, wars and natural disasters. However the biggest damages were caused by fires – first in 973 and then again in 1528.

Today only the Yakushi-ji triad in the Kondo, the Sho-Kannon in the Toindo and the East Pagoda recall the grandeur of its original features.

It was already 4:30 pm and the temples around Nara generally shut down after 5 pm. I took some more pictures of the west pagoda and then walked back to the souvenir stalls.

At the souvenir shop I purchased a photo book, containing photographs of the sculptures at Yakushi-ji. The book contains pictures of many age-old figurines that are rarely displayed. I also wanted to buy a bunch of incense sticks, but they were way too expensive at ¥2000 a bunch.

Before moving out, I asked the person at the counter, how to go back to Kintetsu Nara. He directed me towards the train station nearby, but I was still not too sure with trains, and decided to find the nearest bus stop. I thanked him with a smiling “Arigatou.” I believe one can get away, around Japan with just these three words: Arigatou, Sumi-masen & Gomen-nasai… and not to forget, a Smile 🙂

I walked towards the train station looking for the nearest bus stop. I looked for the time-table at the bus stop, but it wasn’t very clear. A girl, probably also waiting for the bus, asked me about JR Nara Station. I told her I was myself going back to Kintetsu and they were in the same route.

We decided to walk back down the road towards the canal to Toshodai-ji. At Toshodai-ji we asked an elderly lady and she pointed us towards the correct bus stop. We waited there at the stop for a few minutes, along with some other tourists before the bus came along and drove us back to our destinations.

Yakushi-ji at Night

If you wait around a bit for the darkness to set, you can also see the wonderful image of the West pagoda lit up by the bulbs inside the Yakushi-ji complex. The summit of the Pagoda, called Water flame lights up in bright golden as the evening slips into the night.

Yakushi-ji has a lot of history. It is one of the seven large temples in Nara that includes like Todai-ji, Daian-ji, Saidai-ji, Gango-ji, Horyu-ji and Kofuku-ji. I was disappointed at first, not to have seen the black pagoda, but still the grounds are a great place to roam around and witness the moments of glory of Nara.

Thanks for reading. Please leave me a comment if you liked the post or follow my story as I visit one the most overlooked temple at Nara Park – Kasuga Taisha.

When was Yakushi-ji built ?

680 CE near Kashihara. Yakushiji was originally constructed in Fujiwara-kyo south of Nara (present day Kashihara city), and was finally completed in 698. The temple was moved to its present location in 718, after the capital was moved to the north of Nara in 710.

What are Yakushi-ji temple visiting hours?

8:30 – 17:00 (last admission at 16:30)

What is the price of admission tickets for Yakushi-ji?

Only Yakushi-ji: Adults: ¥800
Yakushi-ji with Genjo Sanjo-in: Adults: ¥1,100

When is Genjo Sanjo-in is open to public?

Genjo-Sanzoin is opened only from Jan.1-5, Mar.1-Jun.15, Sep.16-Nov.25

Do they have an official website?

yes, please go here: http://www.nara-yakushiji.com/

The grave of Ganjin

Nara is not very English friendly, so it took a bit of a push, to venture out alone to explore Gojo-cho, some five kilometers west of Nara. However, they do have very helpful Tourist Information Centers. So I took a deep breadth, trusted my navigational skills and set out.

I walked down to the Nara Tourist Information Center near Kintetsu Nara Station. I was flipping though various pamphlets at the Center before a charming lady offered to help me. I told her I wanted to visit Yakushi-ji & Toshodai-ji. She took out a bus route map of Nara and drew me the route I needed to take. She told me to wait at Bus stop #8, just outside the Center, and catch either the #70, #72 or #97 buses to Yakushi-ji/ Toshodai-ji. She also helped me obtain an all day Nara Bus Pass, that cost me 500 Yen.

I walked down to the bus stop, beside the Kintetsu Nara Station. I didn’t have to wait long for Bus #70 to come along. It was full, but not crowded. The first time one uses the All Day Bus Pass, they have to put it in the ticketing machine to get the date stamped. After the first ride, you just need to show the pass to the driver. At the next stop, JR Nara Station, most people got down and I was able to obtain a seat. I kept checking the route the bus was taking on the map provided to me. We passed a stop for Heijo Palace Grounds. I made a mental note to come down here some other day.

Toshodai-ji

Within a few minutes after the Heijo Palace stop, the landscape changed and houses gave way to lush green paddy fields. The bus took a hard right and drove across, over a small canal. It took around half an hour to reach my first stop, Toshodai-ji.

Toshodai-ji is a Buddhist temple of the Ritsu sect, known for its 8th-century Golden Hall. Toshodai-ji was founded in the year 759 by Ganjin, a Chinese Buddhist monk invited by Emperor Shomu to introduce his subjects to the teachings of Buddha. Once complete, Toshodai-ji became the headquarters of the Ritsu Buddhist sect, giving priority to moral teachings and strict respect to the rules of the monastic discipline. Ganjin’s teachings at Toshodai-ji played an important part in the growth of Buddhism in Japan.

The admission booth is just across the road, where the bus dropped me and a handful of other tourists. Entry fee to the temple is 600 Yen. From the Nandai-mon gate, a wide pebbled road leads up to the main building known as Kondo Hall. The rectangular hall is supported by eight rounded wooden columns. I have not witnessed such unique columns in any of the other shrines in Nara except for Yakushi-ji. It’s a testimony to eighth century Chinese influence on Japanese architecture in this area. Inside the Kondo Hall are a variety of masterpieces classified as “national treasure.” The hall also holds a sculpture dating from 763 AD, in dry lacquer, representing the old master Ganjin, sitting in meditation posture. Photographing the sculptures is not allowed.

Just behind the Kondo Hall is the Kodo Hall, also known as the Golden Hall. The Kodo Hall, once used to be a boardroom for the court of Nara and was originally a part of the Imperial Palace. It was later moved to Toshodai-ji, where relatively untouched by fires, it is the only surviving building of the former palace.

There are a number of small paths on the temple grounds. I instinctively turned right of the Kondo Hall and followed a narrow path towards Ganjin’s grave. Toshodai-ji’s founder, Ganjin, died in the temple in 763. His grave is located in a beautiful moss-covered garden. The surrounding trees and a small pond gives the area an atmosphere of serenity. His gravestone sits on a mound in the center of the garden.

Walking back from the garden, I found some acorns along the path. I stashed some in my cargo pockets for the Shika (Deer) at the Nara Park. I went around the back taking some close-up pictures of the temples architecture. Once I circled back to the Nandai-mon gate, I saw a noisy group of tourists being instructed by their guide about the temple. I quietly slipped out of the gate. From Toshodai-ji I could have taken another bus to Yakushi-ji, but I love to walk. So I walked a few paces back where we had crossed a lovely canal and then started southwards towards Yakushi-ji.

Hike to Mount Wakakusayama

It was a lovely sunny day. I packed my gear and headed towards Nara Park. I didn’t have anything specific planned, just wanted to go over there and relax among the lovely deer herds.

Once I reached the Deer Park, I bought some senbei for the deer. I was just wandering about when I noticed the alluring green meadows of Mt. Wakakusa, just east of Todai-ji. I find hiking to be one of the most relaxing and rewarding activities. So I set off along the path up the beautiful hill.

Mt. Wakakusayama is also known as Mikasayama or Mount Mikasa. It’s real claim to fame is being set on fire on the fourth Saturday every January during Wakakusayama-yaki, also known as the Grass Burning Festival, to commemorate a historical battle among monks of Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji.

Myths surrounding Wakakusayama

According to local folklore that goes that many centuries ago, sometime during 1760, the monks of two of Nara’s most powerful Buddhist temples, were locked in a conflict regarding their boundaries. The conflict grew into a big fight and Mt. Wakakusayama ended up being torched.

In remembrance of that horrid day, even today a torch is lit with sacred fire at the Kasuga Taisha shrine, and carried by monks in a procession to the foot of Wakakusayama, where the hill is set on fire. It usually burns for around 30 minutes before a show of fireworks lights up the sky.

Contradicting with the above, there is another story that is connected with the keyhole-shaped tomb called Uguisuzuka Kofun on the top of the third hill of Mt. Wakakusa.

In the past, a superstition developed that if you burn the mountain, you can repel the ghosts that return from their tombs. It is said that as a result, people passing through the Wakakusayama started to set the mountain on fire.

These wildfires repeatedly began threatening the precincts of Todai-ji and Kofuku-ji specially, in winter when the grass turns dry. In December 1738, Nara Magistrate’s Office put up a notice board prohibiting people from setting fire to the mountain. However, arson by superstitious people continued to occur. To avoid such dangers, towards the end end of Edo period, Nara city established a rule to allow people to burn the mountain grass in the presence of government representatives, along with those of Todai-ji Temple and Kofuku-ji Temple.

The Yamayaki (mountain burning) festival is also said to be derived from these superstitions to comfort the spirits of the dead at Uguisuzuka Kofun located at the top of mountain.

Hike to Wakakusayama

At the base of Mount Wakakusa, there is an admission booth that accepts ¥‎150 as entrance fee. Please note that there are two entrances to Mt. Wakakusa, the South Gate and North Gate. These gates are located about 300 meters apart.

The mountain slope is very gentle, more like a hill. Mt. Wakakusa consists of three hills and is 342 meters high. It covers a total area of 33 hectares with lush green grasses, specially during summer months.

The trail to the summit are opened only from third Saturday in March to the second Sunday in December.

The grassy slope is just amazing, coupled with the beautiful herds of deer roaming around. There are two routes up the hill, I took the left one. It attracts less tourists because it is steeper. One has to climb some steps before hitting the well maintained forest trail.

Fall was just around the corner and dry leaves crunched underneath my shoes as I hiked up with my camera. A few minutes into the hike, I was surrounded by towering cedars of the Kasugayama Forest. Sudden bursts of wind would blow the dry leaves along the path with a loud howl. As I hiked up the trail, occasionally one of the Shika deer would peek through the trees in the dimly lit forest. They are a lot hesitant than their kin who dwell near the Todai-ji temple, who would literally chase you down for food.

I took my time making my way up the trail, enjoying the relative solace of the forest.

I reached the first summit in about 40 minutes. The grass was green and the wind was gentle. A couple were sitting there with their dog. I greeted them with a subtle, “Konnichiwa!”

It was a beautiful day, but only a handful of tourists had braved the hike. I lay down on the inviting soft grass watching the quite city of Nara from above. The hill overlooking the city, with the gentle cool wind on a sunny day made me forget about everything for a while.

After relaxing for a while on the slopes, I went back on the trail towards the summit. The weather of Nara is such that even if its hot, you will always find a strong breeze blowing across most of the time. It keeps you energized on the hike.

The hike thereafter is relatively a lot easier. The trail is marked by dense Kans grass on both sides.

After a while I reached a small white shack. If you reach the white structure, it means you are almost at the end of the hike. From here a series of steps will take you to the summit.

Time to hike to Wakakusayama

The peak is only about 342 meters but it gets quite windy at the top. Overall excluding the time I spent at the first summit, it took me around and hour to reach the top of Wakakusayama. At the top of the mountain is a nice vantage point to view the quaint city of Nara.

It was not long before a deer came around attracted by the smell of food in my pocket. They are always hungry! I fed it the senbei I had brought along. It didn’t last long, as we were joined by more deer, and suddenly I found myself being chased by them.

As evening drew in, I started my walk down the hill, hoping to come up here again sometime during the evening to catch Nara with its lights.

Thank you for reading. Please leave me a comment or ask away if you need any information on hiking up the lively mountain or follow my story as I visit the Yakushi-ji temple in the suburbs of Nara.

Opening Hours

9:00 – 17:00
Shin-Mt. Wakakusa Driveway timings: 8:00 – 23:00 (- 22:00 in Winter)

Annual Closure

From the Monday following the second Sunday in December to the Friday before the third Saturday in March

Admission Fees

Adults: ¥150

Photo Walk to Kofuku-ji

Kofuku-ji is both a landmark and a symbol of Nara. It used to be the family temple of the Fujiwara, the most powerful family clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The temple originally is said to have contained almost 150 buildings in its premises, but only a few have survived, and most rebuilt over the years.

I had a quick breakfast at the Nara University cafeteria and head off to Kofuku-ji on foot using the narrow lanes. The route I love to go to Kofuku-ji is via the Sanjo-dori. It is the happening street in the area with hundreds of shops selling souvenirs and local delicacies. There is always a buzz along the street and I love to visit it often, just to have a good time.

A brief history of Kofuku-ji

Today Kofuku-ji is one of the head temples of the Hosso sect of Buddhism but it has had a very humble beginning. In the year 669 CE, Kagami no Okimi, the consort of Nakatomi-no-Kamatari, founded a Buddhist temple on their family estate in Yamashina Suehara (modern-day Kyoto) to pray for her husband’s recovery from illness.

Her literary works appear in Manyoshu, the oldest extant collection of Japanese waka (poetry in Classical Japanese), compiled sometime after AD 759 during the Nara period. In “Manyoshu,” her name appears as ‘鏡王女’ while in “Nihonshoki” (Chronicles of Japan) it is ‘鏡姫王.’ Her poems are said to be composed after Kamatari’s death, in the memory of her husband. She is also widely considered to be the birth mother of FUJIWARA no Fuhito, who later went on to be the founding patron of Kofuku-ji.

This temple which came to be known as Yamashina-dera was relocated to its present site shortly after the establishment of Heijo as the capital of the empire. The temple was renamed to Kofuku-ji and it grew rapidly in size under the patronage of successive emperor and empresses. During that time the Fujiwara clan had great influence over the imperial family and their blessings to Kofuku-ji, propelled its rise to an important influence even in political matters. In the Heian period (794-1180), the temple assumed control over the Fujiwara tutelary shrine of Kasuga and rose to become the dominant power in Yamato province.

Over time with the decline of the Fujiwara clan, the temple lost its shine. The temple was destroyed by the Taira, rivals of the Fujiwara, in the 12th century Heike wars. Financial pressures eroded the political influence that it had previously enjoyed. In 1595, during the reign of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the temple was stripped of its last remaining estates and replaced them with an annual endowment of only 21,000 koku of rice. Although this amount was sufficient for the maintenance of the temple grounds, a catastrophic fire in 1717 destroyed most of the temple complexes.

With waning power, Kofuku-ji became one of the primary targets of the anti-Buddhist policies of the early years of the Meiji period (1868-1912). In 1868, the Japanese government brought out an ordinance called shinbutsu bunri, which ordered the separation of Shinto from Buddhism. This brought to an abrupt end the centuries-old tie between Kasuga and Kofuku-ji. After a few years when things calmed down, Kofuku-ji was granted permission to re-establish itself as a religious institution.

As you keep walking along the Sanjo-dori. the road will open up near a pond, that falls on the right. it is the Surosawa pond. On your left, you will find a stone staircase that will take you inside the Kofuku-ji grounds. These stairs always remind me of the end scene from the movie “Your Name.”

As I went up the stone stairs, midway to the top, there is a left path, where you can find a Jizo statue surrounded by idols of little children. I spent some time here with the Jizo. The idol is carved out of a single piece of stone. It reminded me of the stone idols from our Hampi trip. The Sun was soft and I was able to get some nice sharp images.

The Jizo referred to as “O-Jizo-san” in Japanese honorific language, is a deity fondly loved by Japanese people. You will find Jizo statues like this in many places including Buddhist temples, graveyards, beside lakes, and even at the corner of some streets in the cities. If you are interested in exploring more, you should visit the Hase-dera temple in Kamakura which is said to host, on its grounds thousands of Jizo statues.

During colder times, you will find them draped in red. Jizo statues are clothed in red bibs and sometimes also hoods. What is a bit funny for me is that, you might also sometimes find cans of Sake beside the statues. The Japanese mostly pray to the Jizo wishing for protection for their lost baby so their spirits might go to heaven without suffering.

Three Storeyed Pagoda

Just beyond the Jizo statue there lies a three-story pagoda. This Pagoda was originally built in 1143 CE at the behest of Fujiwara no Kiyoko, the consort of Emperor Sutoku. The current pagoda was recreated shortly after the destruction of the entire temple complex in 1811, making it one of the oldest of the structures at Kofukuji.

The first storey contains a set of four murals painted on wooden panels that each depicts a Buddha. In addition, the goddess Benzaiten (Saraswati) is enshrined on the eastern face of the central pillar.

After taking some shots of the pagoda, I retraced my steps back to the staircase. As you reach the top you will find yourself in front of the Nanendo hall or commonly referred to as the Southern Hall. Before you go for the hall, if you check on your right, you will find a Chuyoza, a place to purify yourself before you go to pray at the temple.

It’s not much of a deal, you just take the ladle, fill it with the running water and wash your hands one at a time. In the end, you let the remaining water drip down along the handle of the ladle where you were holding it, in a way cleansing it for the next person to use.

The Southern Hall

The southern octagonal hall was initially built in 813 by Fujiwara no Fuyutsugu, in memory of his father. The current hall is the fourth reconstruction and was erected between 1741 and 1789. Enshrined inside it is a seated image of Fukukensaku Kannon.

The southern hall is opened to the public only one day in the year on October 17th

Some people were praying in front of the Nanen-do hall. The air was smoky with the incense sticks burning on an urn placed in front of the temple. Beside the temple hall, there is a small shop that sells incense sticks for ¥100. You can choose between sticks for praying for either health, happiness, or wealth. The words are written in Japanese only, so you might need someone to assist you if you are not able to understand which one to choose.

A left turn here will take you to the Hokuen-do. It was built in 721 by the Empress Gemmei and Emperor Gensho to commemorate the first death anniversary of Fujiwara Fuhito. The building originally dates back over a thousand years, and their present reconstructions were completed in 1210 respectively. The building also houses some of the temple’s treasured artifacts but is only open to the public only a few days a year. Notably among them is a set of four images of the heavenly kings that were created in 791, the finest examples of Japanese dry-lacquer sculptures.

The building is open to the public only on special days every year. The dates of this period vary every year, so please contact the temple authorities before visiting.

A few steps ahead there is a flat base, where once Kofukuji’s main building, the Central Golden Hall used to stand. It was destroyed in a fire in 1717 and – although a replacement hall was built on a smaller scale in the 1800’s – the original Central Golden Hall was not reconstructed. Reconstruction works are currently ongoing and are scheduled to be completed in the year 2018.

The Central Golden Hall opened in 2018, I have updated the details at the end of the journal.

For me, Kofuku-ji’s main attraction is the five-story pagoda known as Gojunoto. At 50.1 meters, it is the second tallest pagoda in Japan after Kyoto’s Toji Temple. The construction of the Five-storied Pagoda was originally started in 730 by Empress Komyo, the daughter of Kofukuji’s founding patron: Fujiwara no Fuhito.

Over its long history, the pagoda burned down a total of five times, with the latest reconstruction dating to around 1426. Enshrined around its central pillar, on the first story are a Yakushi triad (East), a Shaka triad (South) and an Amida triad (West) and a Miroku triad (North)

Lots of women visiting the temple were in the traditional Kimono. It was a beautiful sight to see them walking past the ancient temple. If you are interested in obtaining a Kimono for rental, there are many places along Sanjo-dori, but you have to book it in advance.

Eastern Golden Hall

Beside the Gojunoto is the Easter Golden Hall. The Eastern Golden Hall (Tokondo) was originally constructed in 726 by Emperor Shomu to speed the recovery of the ailing Empress Gensho. Rebuilt in 1415, the Tokondo hall is dominated by the presence of a large image of Yakushi Nyorai (the Healing Buddha) along with the Bodhisattava Nikko & Gakko. The hall also features seated images of 12th-century wooden Monju Bosatsu and Yuima Koji, surrounded by standing images of Four Heavenly Kings.

National Treasure Hall

The Kofuku-ji National Treasure Hall (Kokuhokan) was erected in 1959 to house images, paintings, ritual artifacts, and historical documents that were enshrined in temple buildings that no longer exist. Among the most notable treasures are an 8th-century statue of Ashura (one of Buddha’s eight protectors) carved in the 8th century, an even older bronze head of Yakushi Nyorai, and 12th-century carved wooden statues of priests with strikingly human facial features.

While entrance to Kofukuji’s temple grounds is free and possible around the clock, there are two areas that require paying an entrance fee: Kofukuji’s National Treasure Museum and the Eastern Golden Hall. The recently renovated National Treasure Museum exhibits part of the temple’s great art collection and is an absolute must-see for lovers of Buddhist art. Among the many outstanding exhibits is the three-faced, six-armed Asura Statue, one of the most celebrated Buddhist statues in all of Japan. Unfortunately for me, it was closed on the day.

Kofuku-ji is a nice place to enjoy the history of Nara. Besides the temple, there are many other things to enjoy in Nara Park. If you are the explorer type, you should also check out Umikodo Pavilion, when looks stunning at night.

Kofuku-ji in Fall

Since I lived nearby, I came to Kofuku-ji many times. This is a shot of the beautiful pagoda during the fall. Nara Park has a brilliant fall and if possible, you should plan a trip at that time. For more information you can check out my journal of Nara during Fall.

Update: Central Golden Hall

The Central Golden Hall was opened to visitors in October 2018. Initially, the hall was constructed between 710 and 714 at the behest of Fujiwara-no-Fuhito. It has had an unfortunate history, with the building burned down a total of 7 times. The most recent of these fires occurred in 1717. With dwindling finances, more than a century passed before a temporary structure was finally erected in 1819.

However, the hall suffered extensive damage due to a leaking roof and had to be demolished in 2000. The newly constructed hall faithfully reproduces the Nara-period original based on archaeological evidence, drawings, and other historical records.

We came back at night to capture the celebration of the opening of this grand hall. At the time of writing this, visitors are not allowed to photograph the inside of the hall.

Later that night, we had a quiet stroll along Surosawa pond. The atmosphere becomes quite calm once the day tourists go back to Kyoto and you can enjoy some quiet time by yourself near the pond. I have spent many evenings here, just sitting and staring at the surroundings. A vending machine nearby will fulfill most of your needs if you are thirsty.

Kofuku-ji is one of the first temples I visited when I came to Japan and it will always have a special place in my memories. If and when you are visiting do not forget to explore Nara Park, it is huge and you will never forget the experience of the deer moving around among humans as you could only imagine in fantasy stories.

Thanks you so much for reading. I hope you have a wonderful time experiencing Nara as I did. Please leave me a comment if you liked my story or if you need to ask anything. I am also available on Instagram if you want to connect. Peace.

Admission Fees to Central Golden hall

Adults: ¥500
School Students: ¥300

Admission Fees to National Treasure Hall

Adults: ¥700
School Students: ¥600

Admission Fees to Eastern Golden Hall

Adults: ¥300
School Students: ¥200

When was Kofuku-ji built?

Kufuku-ji had a very humble beginning and the first structure was built in 669 CE in old Kyoto. It was later moved to Nara and succeeding generations of the Fujiwara clan kept building on it until it became a massive temple grounds comprising of over 140 buildings.

Who built Kofuku-ji

The first structure of the Kofuku-ji temple was commissioned by Kagami no Okimi, the legal wife of FUJIWARA no Kamatari. To pray for the recovery of Kamatari’s illness, she established Yamashina-dera Temple in 669 CE, which later became Kofuku-ji Temple.